Recent content by Builder 2010

We had a nice trip back to Philly, short visit did not permit a visit to the Big J. I don't need any more on site visits to finish the model. It took a bit of time to use the new scheme to fit the longitudinals into the framing, but I finished that last night. They now form nice straight lines...

I originally thought about mirroring the model, but it didn't work. The rudder motion would be opposing each other which is wrong as both turn in the same direction. Same goes for the hydraulic systems (still to be drawn) as they are not mirror images of each other. They are exactly the...

I have it and I'm in the same boat as you. Tried to use it, didn't get the hang of it and it's sitting (aging) in my tapes and masking drawer.

A new week… new challenges. I've gotten 90% of the frames drawn and fit in the drawing. I'm not printing anything until I'm sure that the drawings are correct. This project is eating a lot of resin and don't want to waste any. The hardest part is fitting the frames around the rudder bearing...

After getting the framing drawings from John Miano, I got down to business drawing them in 3D. The first thing I noticed was their quality. Not good. I could barely make out any text, but just enough to make out a few dimensions that I could use for scaling. That brings up the second challenge...

Ryan Sizmanski wondered why the rudder was so fabricated. i suggested that it was to reduce weight. While this seems to be a non-issue with somthing that already weighed 47,000t empty, it really is a concern. Every ton of extra weight means less armor and less magazine stores. It's already...

All the changes to the rudder hub are done and both halves are downloaded to the printer. It was worse thinking about it than doing it. Today I did all the design and exporting of the rudder's framing. Went smoother than expected. Split the construction into two parts to fit on the printer. The...

Actually, if you buy Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner is the exact same chemical composition as their normal liquid cement at a fraction of the cost. $6.00 for 40ml (Cement), $11.00 for 25oml (Airbrush Cleaner). 8X more for 2X the price. Like I said, it's a better way to buy Tamiya white label cement.

Today was a mixed bag. The rudder forging did print well and required very litte post-print work to make it work. I made some steel dowel pins, and, using the drain holes on the joint surfaces, was able to nicely mate the two halves. Again, I used Bondic to close the drains on the outer...

The wear surfaces are metal on metal. Only those over-large openings on the cross heads are resin and they're not really in contact. I think the lube I used is also good on nylon gears as it's designed for model train drives. The parts just finished printing. The holes are drains to flush out...

It's been 14 days since I started designing the rudder bearing for 3D printing. As of this morning I was getting ready to throw in the towel for the whole project. Between the binding of the ram mechanism and my seeming inability to design the bearing, the whole project was going nowhere fast...

Milestone day: got the ram system assembled. Leaving off the brass bushings on the crosshead slides did provide enough slack so the rams slide. That said, one of them is still binding a bit mid-travel. If I can exercise it and add some lube I can still go with Plan A (animated versio). If I...

I have been going slowly crazy attempting to put a skin on the Rudder Forging sent to me by John Miano. It's a AutoCad version file that import as a wire frame. I split it in half to make it "easier" to add the skin to it. Those quotes are intentional. There is a tool, Sandbox, in SketchUp...

Thank you! The upper part printed well except for the welding flanges. I going to remove the bad ones and reprint just the flanges and glue them on. There was no errant resin stuck to the barrier film. The leading edge just finished printing and is perfect. I didn't realize that the curved...

The lower rudder hub printed beautifully. The only thing that didn't were most of the plugs that are created when you "drill" drainage holes in hollow objects. The plugs are tapered so they can be pressed in. With a little sanding, the holes disappear. All of them save one ended up stuck to the...