Recent content by JKim

I tweaked the flaps as much as I could to even them out. Still not perfect but better...

I'll double check the flaps Andy... they may have drifted as the epoxy cured. Hopefully, they are straight.... I don't know how much wriggle room I have if he epoxy is cured. Were the flaps always engaged at the same angle? I may also replace the Morane whip antenna with something a bit...

Thanks guys! Painting and weathering is one of my favorite stages in a build. I highly recommend experimenting with thinner/paint ratios to get a better finish. Depending on the paint and situation, I am using thinner to paint ratios of 3:1 or 4:1 for camo painting using Tamiya and Mr Hobby...

Thanks for the comments! Round 2 of salt fading is complete. Which puts me back to where I was, essentially. I don't want a repeat of flat coat fiasco so I'm going to got with this finish. That pretty much ends the airbrush work on this model so off comes the masking on the clear parts...

One step forward... two steps back. I had an issue with the flat coat over the salt fade. The finish started developing a "dusty" or slightly cloudy look with every pass of the airbrush. Not sure what was happening but probably something to do with the salt residue and the flat mixture. So I...

Thanks gents! Round 1 of the salt fading stage. I used a light green for this. I've also added some very minor chipping using a sponge along the wing roots and also on the front fuselage.

The first round of post-shading is done. This work was sealed with a satin finish (1/2 gloss, 1/2 flat). I'm working my way toward a salt fade and I find it easier to do if the finish has a little flat to it. The post-shading, using very watery mixtures of dark browns, is also an...

Thanks for the comments guys! Time for another correction! Again it was something that I did not notice at first. Based on the photographic record of Red 1, the position of the fuselage cross puts it very close to the red bottom with only a sliver of RLM76 light blue peaking through. There...

Thank you and your welcome! Continuing on with the build... Here is the joint on the horizontal stabilizer. Pressing the stabilizer into place produced a glue blob. I let the glue blob dry completely and then scraped it away using a scriber. White Milliput was used to make the joint...

Here's my stenciling on the port side. The overspray near the swastika hasn't been fixed or even noticed at this point. Here she is after the overspray repair. It was right on the red stencil decal so it's not the neatest repair job but I'm assuming it will disappear after the weathering...

Hi Andy... Thanks for the tip on the Solvaset! After that incident, I started soaking up any large pools of the stuff with a sharp corner of a paper towel. I bought my Oramask 810 online from Ante Up Graphic Supply. You can buy sheets or rolls. I paid $8.99 US plus shipping for a 12" x 10...

Danke! I felt really energized when that prop spinner POPPED into place. I ran in the house and showed my wife my handiwork. It took a while but I drafted a set of custom masks on AutoCAD and exported them to a DXF file for the Silhouette Portrait to cut from vinyl masking material. The...

Disregard my reply above... I was looking at the wrong crosses. Yes, some overspray on the tail from the swastikas... will fix those right away!

Andy... that's not black overspray on the crosses but white "underspray". Just a lighter application of white. I can either brighten the white now and then fade all of the markings with weathering. Or leave them and bring down the other markings to that level. Probably do the latter. The...

Thanks for following this build. Just a few more touch-ups before I start doing the markings. I'm using a set of Montex vinyl masks for the large markings. The only masked markings on the bottom are the black crosses on the wings. It's interesting that Red 1 did not have the higher...