1/10 Scale Stuka 87-D, But not really.

Discussion in 'Start to Finish Builds' started by Blacklist, Mar 7, 2016.

  1. Blacklist

    Blacklist Active Member

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    Well, I'm back with the 1/10 scale Stuka Tank Buster. I've already progressed with this scratch built balsa wood model.
    These photos will bring the build up to date. Or close.
    More photos to follow!

    Blacklist
     

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  2. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
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    Nice to see you back. :) :thumbright:
     
  3. Capt. Vick

    Capt. Vick Well-Known Member

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    Kind of like the look of a straight winged Stuka
     
  4. Blacklist

    Blacklist Active Member

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    Gentlemen,

    Thank you for the kind hello, it's good to be back.

    Nothing exciting on the Tank Buster. The fuselage outline is really close to scale, but the wing is designed with les tip taper for an increase in area. I'll get better performance.

    More photos of the underside.

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  5. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
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    Nicely done so far. :thumbright:
     
  6. Blacklist

    Blacklist Active Member

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    Werger,

    Thank you.

    I think this Stuka may be the Ju 87 G-2, not sure about that?

    But the scheme I'm using is the airctaft with this rudder number. 494193, flown by Hans Uldrich Rudel.

    I could use a bit of help with the top colors.

    These following colors would be what color part number for Tamiya brand acrylic paint?

    RLM71 Dark Green and RLM 70 Black Green.

    Thanks in advance.

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  7. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
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    You may use :

    For tops ...
    RLM70 - FS34050 or FS34052 - Tamiya XF27 or XF27:4 + XF2:1
    RLM71 - FS34079 or FS34083 - Tamiya XF61 or XF62:1 + XF49:1

    For undersides ...
    RLM65 - FS 35414 or FS35352 - Tamiya XF23:1 + XF2:1

    RLM70/71/65 ...

    RLM70_71_65.jpg
     
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  8. Blacklist

    Blacklist Active Member

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    Wurger,

    Thank you for the quick reply.

    Bad news, bad news, and luke news.

    The bad news is, I already painted the underside with the XF23.
    The bad news is, I already painted the XF23 with a layer or two of matt varnish.

    Man, I really don't want to paint that underside again?

    Tomorrow, I will order the colors I need.

    Then, I'll be good to go with the top side.

    Well, after I apply a few thousand rivets.

    Thanks again Wurger.

    Blacklist
     

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  9. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
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    I think the XF23 straight from the bottle can be as well. So you may stay with the colour on undersides.
     
  10. Blacklist

    Blacklist Active Member

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    Wurger,

    Yes, but that FX23 reduced one to one, that 50%! It would be a much different color.

    I do have to wait a few days to get the top side paint. I might consider doing it.

    Wurger, if you noticed a mistake you made on one of your models with the incorrect color, would you take the time and effort to correct it?

    Bkacklist
     
  11. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
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    In my opinion the difference between the XF 23 straight from the bottle and the mixture of XF23:1 + XF2:1 is its lighter tinge. The XF2 is just the white colour that can do that. But a such light blue colour can become darker because of the weather, dirt etc... So no problemo methinks.

    To answer your question .... I always try to find out as much as possible on colours for a particular plane and its camo scheme. It allows me to avoid a such mistake you asked about. Just the rush is needed for catching of cooties only. Of course if it is possible I can take the time and efford to correct a wrong colour. But it all depends on a model type and the stage of working on that . Removing paints from a plastic model is easier than form the kind of models you make. Especially you have to keep the control over the model weight. Therefore I would leave it as it is.
     
  12. Blacklist

    Blacklist Active Member

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    Wurger,

    I fixed that incorrect color this morning. Didn't take 8 minutes. Took longer for the mix and the clean up.

    Took advantage of the lighter color, now I have lights and darks. The semi-gloss will bring them out a bit more.

    I did sand the tops of the rivets on the stab to bring bacl the darker color plus the color of the rivet.

    Sanding the rest will take a good hour.

    Wurger, thanks for your help.

    I feel better with the change even though the model isn't true scale.

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  13. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
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    Looking really nice. :thumbright:
     
  14. Blacklist

    Blacklist Active Member

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    Wurger,

    Thank you.

    I couldn't leave it with the darker color. Actually fixed it way before your Post.

    Sanded the rivet tops with 360 to bring out the darker shade. I like it better this way. Started to lay out the top side rivet lines.

    I'm getting a bit better at this. If I can find some time in the next day or so to work on the model, this will go quick.

    Thanks for the reply.

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  15. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
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  16. Wayne Little

    Wayne Little Well-Known Member

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    Not bad at all!
     
  17. Gnomey

    Gnomey World Travelling Doctor
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    Nicely done so far!
     
  18. Blacklist

    Blacklist Active Member

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    Gentlemen,

    Thank you for the kind remarks.

    I spent some time today laying out the rivit detail and applying rivets on the flaps and tail areas.

    Probably won't get to the wing tops till Saturday.

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  19. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
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  20. vikingBerserker

    vikingBerserker Well-Known Member

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