That would be my take too, will then give you that neat edge again.
<> **** DONE: 1/32 Sopwith Camel F.1 - WW1 / WW2 over Water.
- Thread starter parsifal
- Start date
Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules
- Thread starter
- #203
parsifal
Colonel
No work today fellas. It takes this artists oil paint a long time to dry....
- Thread starter
- #204
parsifal
Colonel
Im kicking myself over this because the drama with the edge bleeding was avoidable, moreover I had learnt how to ensure no bleeding of colour across or under the masking line a couple of years ago, but had simply forgotten how to do it.
The best way to approach this was shown to me years ago by Terry. Basically lay your base coat down for the whole surface…say you have a blue on one side, and a white on the other. I would paint the whole model white. Then apply the masking line over the bits of white I want to retain, followed another coat of white along the seam line to seal that same and ensure no leakage across or under that seam. Then apply your second colour, in this case blue (in the example I mean) which should not cause any bleeding or seepage into the lighter colour
So I did know how to do this, but had forgotten about that lesson all those years ago. Im still kicking myself, but hopefully next time wont forget how its meant to be done
I don't know if I can do this now. The oil colour is texture based as well as colour based. I think I would need to remove the whole oil application, start again basically, to rectify the problem. If I wanted to retain the current oil application, I would need to wait about 24 more hours for that coat to harden, alternatively if I want to remove the colour, best time is now whilst its still soft/touch dry. I have managed to touch up the edges such that they are passable now I think, but the question I need to ponder is "good enough' actually good enough.....
The best way to approach this was shown to me years ago by Terry. Basically lay your base coat down for the whole surface…say you have a blue on one side, and a white on the other. I would paint the whole model white. Then apply the masking line over the bits of white I want to retain, followed another coat of white along the seam line to seal that same and ensure no leakage across or under that seam. Then apply your second colour, in this case blue (in the example I mean) which should not cause any bleeding or seepage into the lighter colour
So I did know how to do this, but had forgotten about that lesson all those years ago. Im still kicking myself, but hopefully next time wont forget how its meant to be done
I don't know if I can do this now. The oil colour is texture based as well as colour based. I think I would need to remove the whole oil application, start again basically, to rectify the problem. If I wanted to retain the current oil application, I would need to wait about 24 more hours for that coat to harden, alternatively if I want to remove the colour, best time is now whilst its still soft/touch dry. I have managed to touch up the edges such that they are passable now I think, but the question I need to ponder is "good enough' actually good enough.....
turbo
Staff Sergeant
I wouldn't advise removing the oil work Michael as it will make a hell of a mess and it doesn't look as though you've got a gloss coat on there so will likely stain the surrounding paintwork. I'm assuming here you're using an airbrush for the basecoats, so I would go ahead and mask the wood grain area and spray the white and green areas to get your crisp line. If there are any small gaps under the tape due to the texture of the oils, it is unlikely you will get significant overspray under there (aerodynamics of turbulence and all that), especially if you angle the airbrush away from the tape slightly. Build up light coats rather than flooding the paint and you shouldn't see any seepage. If any paint did get under there, remove it quickly with a fine brush moistened with thinners (presuming you are using acrylics).
BTW, you can seal masking tape edges with clear varnish, which you could also try here if the gaps aren't too big. Doesn't matter what colour is underneath then and is particularly useful for masking on clear parts.
BTW, you can seal masking tape edges with clear varnish, which you could also try here if the gaps aren't too big. Doesn't matter what colour is underneath then and is particularly useful for masking on clear parts.
- Thread starter
- #206
parsifal
Colonel
Thanks much appreciated
So heres the problem in pictures as it stands....
you can clearly see the bleed mark into the green . not all of that was from retouching of the edge, but some is. . It doesn't look much now, but the timbering effect is really effective and worth keeping if I can.
I have two problems as I see it. The green has really bled badly whilst the line work particualalry for the silver parts is okay but not great.
I think I will let the oil work cure before masking the timber work. That's risky, because I don't know if the unique surface effects ive managed to pull off will put up with being masked or not. artists oil paints behave in ways I'm not familiar with...best chance is that It needs to be thoroughly hardened to resist the texture bashing effects of the tape. once cured, I will gently apply masking over the brown bits to protect it before applying a coat of clear over the masking to seal it and the edge and try and stop this bleeding issue. once the clear coat has dried, I should be able to apply a green top coat to fix the green bleedy bit and the silver to fix the wobbly edge.
At least that's the plan.
I don't think it necessary to remove the timber graining which is a royal pain in the ars*. to get right
So heres the problem in pictures as it stands....
you can clearly see the bleed mark into the green . not all of that was from retouching of the edge, but some is. . It doesn't look much now, but the timbering effect is really effective and worth keeping if I can.
I have two problems as I see it. The green has really bled badly whilst the line work particualalry for the silver parts is okay but not great.
I think I will let the oil work cure before masking the timber work. That's risky, because I don't know if the unique surface effects ive managed to pull off will put up with being masked or not. artists oil paints behave in ways I'm not familiar with...best chance is that It needs to be thoroughly hardened to resist the texture bashing effects of the tape. once cured, I will gently apply masking over the brown bits to protect it before applying a coat of clear over the masking to seal it and the edge and try and stop this bleeding issue. once the clear coat has dried, I should be able to apply a green top coat to fix the green bleedy bit and the silver to fix the wobbly edge.
At least that's the plan.
I don't think it necessary to remove the timber graining which is a royal pain in the ars*. to get right
Crimea_River
Marshal
Looking pretty good.
Hope your solution works....
fubar57
General
Yep, agree with all
- Thread starter
- #211
parsifal
Colonel
still no major progress as the oil based paint is agonizingly slow to dry I could have added linseed to speed it up a bit, some sources that makes the finish smooth and shiny which is not what is needed . ive spent the evening making pickles and applying GENTLE heat from a drying lamp and moving air across the surface . Gave it about 2.5 hrs worth, and seems to have done the job
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Sounds like you've got things in hand. Maybe a thin clear coat of the required finish (matt, satin or whatever) over the wood grain will protect it for masking ?
Good work so far!
- Thread starter
- #214
parsifal
Colonel
well here are the shots of my woodgraining effects retouched. Ive also added the oil filler pipe . The method I applied has worked, and I'm happy, But woodgraining is a difficult process for the average or below average modeller. The theory is relatively simple, but its the application that's hard. its easy to over do the effect, and I am of the opinion that my effort, whilst okay had strayed into that territory
Anyway, here are a bunch of shots of my weeks work so far, not much to show for all that really, but I'm glad I went back and did it just the same. Everything worked, its just that I would always look for the best possible results....and it was as much fun as it was challenging
Anyway, have a look and judge for yourselves
Anyway, here are a bunch of shots of my weeks work so far, not much to show for all that really, but I'm glad I went back and did it just the same. Everything worked, its just that I would always look for the best possible results....and it was as much fun as it was challenging
Anyway, have a look and judge for yourselves
- Thread starter
- #215
parsifal
Colonel
oh a late stop press. I realize Ive made a massive blooper putting the fuel filler cap on the port side....it should be on the starboard side. too late now
fubar57
General
Did a much better job than I would have and I would have never noticed
Done good Michael...
T Bolt
Colonel
Looking real nice Michael
Crimea_River
Marshal
Looking good Michael.
