<> **** DONE: 1/32 Sopwith Camel F.1 - WW1 / WW2 over Water.

[Airframes]

Yep, the padding around the rim is brown leather in that pic, very worn and faded. I would suggest that either colour would suffice, although brown would probably be more in keeping for the period. It's also very possible that the seat cushion was left out at times.

 

[parsifal]

If you look at the B&W period photo, that does seem to suggest a dark tan finish, whereas Terry's suggestion whilst still very plausible and probably a bit more striking to look at if finished correctly, doesn't have as good a "historical" basis.

Decisions decisions....

Any advice about how to approach the IP issue? Is my plan too crazy for words? best way to find out is to try it I guess...

 

[parsifal]

Sometimes my researching of issues for this hobby can take me to some mighty strange places.

I did not know the processes for producing red or brown leather. I have a better idea now.

The modern methods are different, but the methods applied in 1917 used far more traditional methods of curing and colouring leather than they do today. For red or brown leather finishes, they used a product called Mink Oil , which has similar properties to the oil that keeps human skin flexible. It is of course derived from the scrapings of mink pelts. It is usually a product used when a degree of waterproofing or at least moisture resistance is required. Leather treated or finished with mink oil tend to have water or condensation roll off the surface as beads.

There are obvious benefits to this approach in an aircraft where moisture ii the atmosphere had to be an issue. But mink il even then was a relatively difficult product to come by which I would easily see as an issue. How much leather would be needed to feed the wartime demands…..a lot.

Black leather of the time could of course use dyes like the modern types of leather, but more likely used a traditional method called "black rust". The dyeing agent was hugely abundant and relatively easy to make. It consisted of rusty steel or iron being soaked in vinegar for at least a week, and then basically working that (now0 black solution into the leather material turning it black as well. There were other additives that could make the leather supple or more waterproof.

There you have it. One process quick and superior in terms of durability, the other process easy materials to make but longer to produce and proct not as durable.

I think either finish is plausible based on the above information


Happy to listen to other peoples views on this…. .

 

[parsifal]

got a bit done tonite. Today was pleased to receive my aftermarket guns and have started the assembly of one of them. I found the going difficult, but there is a benefit I think to having gone to the expense of buying them.

Have also applied paint to the pilot seat. settled on the black trim scheme in the finish after testing for visual appearance and not being able to decide if black was appropriate or not, I basically settled on 'what the heck, I like that scheme" so off I went. Ive used a vinyl covering for the sitting part. not yet glued in as am still deciding if I should do that, or just paint the base. The side tops are painted black and the main part ....the basketty bit, is a Tamiya sand yellow

Also a couple of shots of my scratch built IP as I await the arrival of these darned decals to fish the thing.....


Anyway, here are the progress shots

 

[Wurger]

 

[Airframes]

Good stuff Michael.
It looks like the resin seat has been produced without the leather rim to the edge, but as a woven bead instead.

 

[Robert Porter]

Looking good!

 

[parsifal]

Terry I don't follow you I'm sorry. Can you clarify please?

 

[Crimea_River]

Good work going on here Michael. I think Terry means that the resin seat does not simulate a leather rim but a woven one.

 

[Airframes]

That's correct. the rim of the seat back is typical basketwork, woven around a former, probably bamboo.

 

[parsifal]

ah now I see. bit of a problem really. I can fairly easily just retouch the job to make the top of the chair wicker colour, but the limited sources show a leather piping at the top (might be black, or might be tan.....).

I will have to think a bit now. If this was your build, may I ask what you would do?....

Appreciate the advice, honestly

 

[Wurger]

Some of a putty to fill these grooves and sanding to make the rim smooth. And then painting with the leather colour. Really any problem I would say.

 

[Airframes]

If I decided to have the contrast of a leather rim, which I probably would, then I'd apply a thin roll of 'Milliput' to the resin seat rim, and trim and smooth it to shape, painting it when set.
Other types of putty could be used of course, but the 'Milliput' 2-part putty is ideally suited to this type of work, and easy to use, apply and mould.

 

[Wurger]

Also if you are afraid of sanding of the putty you may apply a couple of thick coats of the leather paint. These grooves should disappear too.

 

[Crimea_River]

Yep. Easiest is to apply thick paint or even white glue.

 

[fubar57]

Or paint the grooves a dark colour and dry brush the lighter colour

 

[parsifal]

thanks so much guys. as usual, a mountain of excellent advice. Will think about the right choice for me, might do some experimentation first

 

[parsifal]

If I decided to have the contrast of a leather rim, which I probably would, then I'd apply a thin roll of 'Milliput' to the resin seat rim, and trim and smooth it to shape, painting it when set.
Other types of putty could be used of course, but the 'Milliput' 2-part putty is ideally suited to this type of work, and easy to use, apply and mould.

I could purchase Milliput, but the local shop doesn't stock it. they do have the GW (aka warhammer figures) two pack epoxy , and I have Tamiya tube putty on hand. Do you see problems with either of those options? otherwise there would be a 5-7 day delay (I can order and have it delivered from one of the capital city hobby shops).

 

[Wurger]

Instead of buying of the putty you may use a piece of insulation of a black or brown colour taken from an electrical cable. It is a kind of a pipe and can be ripped at one side in order to press it on the top edge of the seat. Just a matter of the pipe diameter ( thickness ) to keep the correct scale. The advantage of that way is the rim doesn't need to be painted.

There is as many sources for a such "shirt" as many cables...

 

[parsifal]

That is an excellent suggestion and one that suits my skillset and temperament...