<-- **** DONE: 1/48 Beaufighter TF X - Twin Engined Aircraft of WWII

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Thanks all.

A BIG head slap today. I realized that I forgot to install the gun sight before gluing in the canopy ](*,)

I did not use my usual PVA based glue either but cemented the clear part on with Tamiya Extra Thin, given that there was sufficient venting for any fumes through the open emergency hatch. The only chance I have now of putting the sight in now is through the hatch.
 
Thanks all.

A BIG head slap today. I realized that I forgot to install the gun sight before gluing in the canopy ](*,)

I did not use my usual PVA based glue either but cemented the clear part on with Tamiya Extra Thin, given that there was sufficient venting for any fumes through the open emergency hatch. The only chance I have now of putting the sight in now is through the hatch.
Yowsa! Small tweezers and a very steady hand required for that!
 
Been there, done that. Clear styrene is a bit stiffer than the colored stuff and can be less reactive with Tamiya Extra Thin, which means a potentially weaker bond. I've been able to pry off glued canopy parts without damage but it is a risk.
 
Thanks guys. Not gonna go there John. I'm going to do the arthroscopic surgery approach but will need a very tacky glue. My hand is not steady enough to hold the part with tweezers and wait for glue to set. I don't want to use CA either as I'll risk frosting the windshield. I may go with a 2 part epoxy.
 
Roger that Andy... a clear part is the one thing that you don't want to mess up. How about using PVA glue? Elmer's White gets tacky fairly quickly but it's not very strong. If it is plastic-to-plastic connection, good ole Testors Tube Glue might work in this setting.
 
The nose on some of these Beaus had a cockpit air intake scoop and "M" was one of them. This was an easy add using card with flanges made of aluminum tape.

16112901.jpg


Now, before beddy-bye, I squirted on some primer in the areas that I worked to see how the various surfaces look.

16112902.jpg


The wing roots are getting there but the fairing seam is still a bit uneven with a lip up front and none in back. Some more sanding here. One interesting consideration in this area is that ground crews found that the screws holding the fairing down would constantly vibrate loose. The solution adopted by 404 was to dope some fabric over the screws and apply a liberal coat of red primer over the fabric. No apparent consideration was given to neatness and nor was camouflage applied over the red primer so this area on the model will replicate that effect.

16112903.jpg


The port wing with the added camera opening, filled panel lines, scribed fasteners, and filled in landing light. Not bad but a few spots need to be smoothed yet. I also intend to add an actuator rod that connects the inlet louvers on the oil coolers.

16112904.jpg


The nose in brutal close up reveals that the depression in the fuselage seam was not yet completely filled and that a bit of filing will need to be done on the cockpit air inlet. When I see more fill being required, I just go ahead and spray puddles of primer in these areas that, once dry, will be sanded smooth, hopefully fixing the defect. That's why you see the ugly blobs of primer along the seam on the fuselage below the canopy.

16112905.jpg


A bientot.
 
Thanks for the update Andy! Very helpful stuff, especially about the primer. I use a putty (Mr Surfacer 1000) as my primer so I can see the benefits of varying the primer application to help rectify surface imperfections.
 
Thanks John.

No work done over the last couple of days as I've been updating the drawings for our Hurricane restoration. Meantime, I've ordered and Ultracast resin exhaust set as the ones supplied with the kit just won't do, especially with all the attention I'm giving the details on this kit.

Another thing that has me somewhat baffled is that the excellent Aviaeology reference states that, for a time, 404 Squadron carried a Universal Bomb Carrier for bombing practice and then dispensed with them when they stuck with rocket armament. However, the UBC "plates" were still carried after the actual UBC's were removed. Here's the detail shown on the reference, the first showing the UBC and the second without but with the plates still there:

UBC1.JPG
UBC2.JPG


I'm looking for clues as to what the plates looked like as I'd like to replicate them. The only thing I've been able to find with the photo below, showing the attachment lugs but I don't have a detail of the plates. Anyone have a clue????

Lugs.JPG
 

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