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>> **** DONE: 1/72 CAC CA-15 "Kangaroo" - Prototype / Weird Aircraft / Trainers
- Thread starter parsifal
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Crimea_River
Marshal
Regarding the fragility mentioned by Robert, my experience has been the opposite. Being lacquer based, these paints seem to behave like lacquers are supposed to by forming a strong bond with the plastic. I have found them to be dry to the touch within an hour and have had no issues with finger prints. As with all paints, handling should be limited for at least 24 hours.
Not sure what "colours" you have ordered but there are bright and dull versions. Aircraft Aluminum and Polished Aluminum are examples of the former and these seem to be the favoured choice of modelers of NMF finishes. I have tried the Dull Aluminum and find the finish to come out a bit too grainy for my liking. A dulling effect can be achieved by using a flat clear coat but if you want to maintain a bright, shiny finish, I would avoid using a gloss clear as it cold result in a finish that is less satisfying than just the bare Alclad. Decals can be applied right onto the paint. My Mustang below was done using the two bright colours mentioned above (though there might be some Duralumin in there as well) and the wings have been flat coated. The panel behind the exhausts is done with Magnesium or Steel.
Different panel colour variations can be achieved in two ways. One is to apply varying base colours as mentioned above. The other is to use different colours of Alclads. I have used both methods and see no real advantage of one over the other, except that with different base colours, you can get away with using a single Alclad colour rather than having to stock various shades.
Not sure what "colours" you have ordered but there are bright and dull versions. Aircraft Aluminum and Polished Aluminum are examples of the former and these seem to be the favoured choice of modelers of NMF finishes. I have tried the Dull Aluminum and find the finish to come out a bit too grainy for my liking. A dulling effect can be achieved by using a flat clear coat but if you want to maintain a bright, shiny finish, I would avoid using a gloss clear as it cold result in a finish that is less satisfying than just the bare Alclad. Decals can be applied right onto the paint. My Mustang below was done using the two bright colours mentioned above (though there might be some Duralumin in there as well) and the wings have been flat coated. The panel behind the exhausts is done with Magnesium or Steel.
Different panel colour variations can be achieved in two ways. One is to apply varying base colours as mentioned above. The other is to use different colours of Alclads. I have used both methods and see no real advantage of one over the other, except that with different base colours, you can get away with using a single Alclad colour rather than having to stock various shades.
- Thread starter
- #23
parsifal
Colonel
Ive ordered the Duralumin version of this Alclad. should I be considering more. I was planning on using primer and gloss black and some greys all in Tamiya, as my pre-shading bases. Any advice?
For the grease stain coming from the exhausts, how best to emulate that? I was thinking a base pre-shade of gloss black with no defined edges, perhaps even just apply carefully with the airbrush?????
For the top deck staining, given that its not as pronounced as near the exhausts, I was thinking of pre-shading in grey, or should that be in black do you think?
Ive made some progress, but no photos just yet. Detached the wings and fuselage halves from the respective sprues. Lots of flash, and I have fit issues at the wing root. There are alignment lugs to join the wings to each respective half at a certain dihedral. The fit should be snug so that the dihedral is sorted by the kit itself, but in fact the holding lugs are too small, or the recesses too large for a tight fit to be made. The wings just flop around. Moreover, despite my best efforts to sand back the wings so that they fitted snuggly to the fuselage, I have a gap of up to 1mm along all points of the join. I cannot locate the reason for the wings sitting so proud to the fuselage body.
I think I will have to make some sort of jig to align the wings and hold them in place until the adhesive sets. I will have to mask about 3mm from the ing root seam and then fill that gap with filler, trying to keep the join as clean and smooth as I can. This is an outcome the experts specifically say is a downer when using this Alclad lacquer, because it will highlight every imperfection under the sun. Im just going to have to try and do the best I can.
Ive also painted the pit area, completed the painting of the IP. For the IP I decided to use a variation to the technique I used on my last build. Basically use the pin vice to drill out the dial holes. On the reverse side of the IP, attach a clear cellulose backing face to simulate the glazing of the dials. Then on the far side of that face paint my dial colours, basically white, off white, irridesent greens and reds. No dial details, the gauges are just far too small for me to handle that, but the mix of drilled out dial holes, clear facing and colours at the back looks pretty good to me.
For the cockpit walls ive just basically limited the bling to painting a base colour of grey green, the detailing has a first pre-shading layer of black and then a light application of aluminium. There just isn't the detail available to do much more, though I concede it may well have been useful copy a p-51 pit. What stopped me in the finish was that none of it will be visible once I button this pit up. The cockpit aperture is just so tiny
Ive also started to finish the cockpit fllor, the stick and the pilots seat. Pilots seat was really basic, so I decided to try and emulate some cushioning vaguely similar to a P-51. Ended up quite different to that but better than the bare metal finishes shown in the oob kit.
Im currently preparing foil strips for use in making some sort of harness. Ive tried a few alternative, including
Painted insulation wire….wrong profile.
PE sprue cut in narrow strips…okay but the paint I apply is likely to come off as I fit the belt. If I wait until ive fitted the belt, paint will go everywhere. A possibility though.
Aluminium strips cut from the foil test wrappers from my glucometer. The foil is a bluish purple, sort of blue and tan really. Probably nearest equivalent would Tamiya Deck Tan. This bluish harness was sometimes used in older style cars of the 50's and 60's in Australia and im thinking it may have been used for aero harness. You see the finish Im looking for in the harness fitted to Andy's pictured P-51 above, but more detail (looks like a 1/48 scale to me). Again, for this aircraft there just isn't the detail to be too fussy about interior details. This material im experimenting with could be installed with no painting at all and look very convincing IMO
For the grease stain coming from the exhausts, how best to emulate that? I was thinking a base pre-shade of gloss black with no defined edges, perhaps even just apply carefully with the airbrush?????
For the top deck staining, given that its not as pronounced as near the exhausts, I was thinking of pre-shading in grey, or should that be in black do you think?
Ive made some progress, but no photos just yet. Detached the wings and fuselage halves from the respective sprues. Lots of flash, and I have fit issues at the wing root. There are alignment lugs to join the wings to each respective half at a certain dihedral. The fit should be snug so that the dihedral is sorted by the kit itself, but in fact the holding lugs are too small, or the recesses too large for a tight fit to be made. The wings just flop around. Moreover, despite my best efforts to sand back the wings so that they fitted snuggly to the fuselage, I have a gap of up to 1mm along all points of the join. I cannot locate the reason for the wings sitting so proud to the fuselage body.
I think I will have to make some sort of jig to align the wings and hold them in place until the adhesive sets. I will have to mask about 3mm from the ing root seam and then fill that gap with filler, trying to keep the join as clean and smooth as I can. This is an outcome the experts specifically say is a downer when using this Alclad lacquer, because it will highlight every imperfection under the sun. Im just going to have to try and do the best I can.
Ive also painted the pit area, completed the painting of the IP. For the IP I decided to use a variation to the technique I used on my last build. Basically use the pin vice to drill out the dial holes. On the reverse side of the IP, attach a clear cellulose backing face to simulate the glazing of the dials. Then on the far side of that face paint my dial colours, basically white, off white, irridesent greens and reds. No dial details, the gauges are just far too small for me to handle that, but the mix of drilled out dial holes, clear facing and colours at the back looks pretty good to me.
For the cockpit walls ive just basically limited the bling to painting a base colour of grey green, the detailing has a first pre-shading layer of black and then a light application of aluminium. There just isn't the detail available to do much more, though I concede it may well have been useful copy a p-51 pit. What stopped me in the finish was that none of it will be visible once I button this pit up. The cockpit aperture is just so tiny
Ive also started to finish the cockpit fllor, the stick and the pilots seat. Pilots seat was really basic, so I decided to try and emulate some cushioning vaguely similar to a P-51. Ended up quite different to that but better than the bare metal finishes shown in the oob kit.
Im currently preparing foil strips for use in making some sort of harness. Ive tried a few alternative, including
Painted insulation wire….wrong profile.
PE sprue cut in narrow strips…okay but the paint I apply is likely to come off as I fit the belt. If I wait until ive fitted the belt, paint will go everywhere. A possibility though.
Aluminium strips cut from the foil test wrappers from my glucometer. The foil is a bluish purple, sort of blue and tan really. Probably nearest equivalent would Tamiya Deck Tan. This bluish harness was sometimes used in older style cars of the 50's and 60's in Australia and im thinking it may have been used for aero harness. You see the finish Im looking for in the harness fitted to Andy's pictured P-51 above, but more detail (looks like a 1/48 scale to me). Again, for this aircraft there just isn't the detail to be too fussy about interior details. This material im experimenting with could be installed with no painting at all and look very convincing IMO
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turbo
Staff Sergeant
Duraluminum is a slightly darker shade of aluminium (I think I saw a jet done in it on a Completed Kits thread recently if you want to get an idea of how it will look). It might be a good idea to also get one of the brighter shades Andy has mentioned above and you can then mix the 2 in different ratios to get subtle variations in panel tone.
The stains coming from the exhaust are not grease but soot from exhaust fumes. I prefer to paint these using an airbrush, building up slowly using heavily thinned paint in black/red brown tones or whatever suits reference picks and the type of fuel being burned. Include a bit of Tamiya Flat Base in the paint mix to give that chalky/sooty appearance. Others like to do them using pigments, but these can be difficult to adhere to a NMF unless you have a satin/flat coat over the top.
Not sure what you mean by "top deck staining"?
For home-made foil harnesses, I've used foil from the top of a wine bottle with good success. Not as good success as if I hadn't drunk the bottle first though...
The stains coming from the exhaust are not grease but soot from exhaust fumes. I prefer to paint these using an airbrush, building up slowly using heavily thinned paint in black/red brown tones or whatever suits reference picks and the type of fuel being burned. Include a bit of Tamiya Flat Base in the paint mix to give that chalky/sooty appearance. Others like to do them using pigments, but these can be difficult to adhere to a NMF unless you have a satin/flat coat over the top.
Not sure what you mean by "top deck staining"?
For home-made foil harnesses, I've used foil from the top of a wine bottle with good success. Not as good success as if I hadn't drunk the bottle first though...
fubar57
General
Another good way for exhaust staining is to use chalk pastels, the same colors Kirby mentioned. These work best on flat based paint though.
- Thread starter
- #26
parsifal
Colonel
If you have a squiz at Andy's p-51, there is an area in the dorsal area that is distinictly darker, not black, maybe olive almost. how best to emulate that is basically what I'm on about?
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Ah, I think you're referring to the anti-glare panel in front of the canopy.
Mask it and paint it, just like the real thing! They were usually painted flat olive drab or black. Stopped the glare off the NMF blinding the pilot
Mask it and paint it, just like the real thing! They were usually painted flat olive drab or black. Stopped the glare off the NMF blinding the pilot
Crimea_River
Marshal
Catching up a bit late but I think the guys have covered your questions very well. Yes, my model is 1/48 scale and the seatbelts are Eduard PE. I've scratch built some using plain masking tape but foil is also good and drapes better. I airbrush my exhaust stains the same way Kirby explained, though I don't use the flat base.
Look forward to it...
- Thread starter
- #30
parsifal
Colonel
Here are some progress shots thus far. I forgot to blow all the sanding dust off the kit before taking these shots, and in some pics it really shows up badly. You don't notice all that sanded material until the close ups are posted.....
nearly time to button up the two fuselage halves and get started trying out painting and shading techniques.....
The harness finished up being made from aluminium foil wrapper. Tried foil from a wine cork, but was too thick. Enjoyed the wine . however. Saddle bag consoles are scratch built, using console decals from a Hawker sea Fury that I had scanned and printed myself
dust, dust dust. Two views of the port side side walls. I scratch built the throttle controls from 8A fuse wire with the smallest dab of resin I could apply. Still looks a bit wild and really too big, but okay for home made in my opinion.
The starboard side side wall. Not enough details I know, but I posted this mostly to check the dry brushing and preshading....
The IP. You can see the dial drill holes, the clear backing plate and dial colours pretty clearly. I'm pretty happy with that though I need to work out a way to put chrome surrounds around the dial holes.
The wheels. ive used Tamiya tyre black for the tread area, semi gloss for the side walls, matt black for the rims and Tamiya aluminium for the dry brushing. to me, that's about all the silvering I should apply. Was wondering what peoples opinions were on this....
The wing roots cleared from the sprue sanded back and ready to attach...except they are sitting proud on the fuselage wing roots by almost a MM. I cant work out why....
nearly time to button up the two fuselage halves and get started trying out painting and shading techniques.....
The harness finished up being made from aluminium foil wrapper. Tried foil from a wine cork, but was too thick. Enjoyed the wine . however. Saddle bag consoles are scratch built, using console decals from a Hawker sea Fury that I had scanned and printed myself
dust, dust dust. Two views of the port side side walls. I scratch built the throttle controls from 8A fuse wire with the smallest dab of resin I could apply. Still looks a bit wild and really too big, but okay for home made in my opinion.
The starboard side side wall. Not enough details I know, but I posted this mostly to check the dry brushing and preshading....
The IP. You can see the dial drill holes, the clear backing plate and dial colours pretty clearly. I'm pretty happy with that though I need to work out a way to put chrome surrounds around the dial holes.
The wheels. ive used Tamiya tyre black for the tread area, semi gloss for the side walls, matt black for the rims and Tamiya aluminium for the dry brushing. to me, that's about all the silvering I should apply. Was wondering what peoples opinions were on this....
The wing roots cleared from the sprue sanded back and ready to attach...except they are sitting proud on the fuselage wing roots by almost a MM. I cant work out why....
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Good stuff Michael.
Do you mean the wings are sitting above the join of the wing root, or spaced away from the wing root ?
Whichever it is, may be caused by a) the slot for the wing locating tab needs to be deeper, or b) a moulding mark or other interference preventing the joints from fully closing.
Do you mean the wings are sitting above the join of the wing root, or spaced away from the wing root ?
Whichever it is, may be caused by a) the slot for the wing locating tab needs to be deeper, or b) a moulding mark or other interference preventing the joints from fully closing.
- Thread starter
- #32
parsifal
Colonel
Its sitting away from the fuselage. Alignment in the vertical and also forward to back is good. its just not sitting snug to the wing and the fuselage. ive checked the depth of the holding lug into the recess seems fine. Your right. there has gotta be an obstruction somewhere, ill keep looking. Even if I cant find it I can bite the bullet and use a bucket load of filler to fix the gap issue. I just don't want to.....
turbo
Staff Sergeant
You're better off finding the obstruction point and giving it a bit of a shave rather than than putting yourself into a world of filler hurt Michael! If you can't work out where it is, Robert suggested a method in another thread where you put a wet marker of some sort on one surface of the join and then put them together and the marker will show up on the contact point(s) of the other surface.
T Bolt
Colonel
Looking real good Michael
Crimea_River
Marshal
Good work Michael and, yes, those close-ups often reveal things that the naked eye does not find significant. On the wing roots, one trick I use, learned from woodworking, is to make the contact areas slightly concave so that the contact surfaces become the visible top and bottom seam. This can be achieved with a round file or U-shaped blade. What you are likely getting is contact with a high point somewhere in the middle of the joint, away from the visible seams.
fubar57
General
Good start. It might be the angle of the photograph but to me it looks like the right console is over hanging the floor board a bit which might interfere with the fuselage fit. If it's just the photo, ignore this
- Thread starter
- #38
parsifal
Colonel
It might be. ive attached the consoles using CA glue, so it is possible to pull apart and re-align them if I have to. I think you are onto something because ive just noticed a gap between the pilots seat and the console. It should be fluch against the seat, so probably it moved without me noticing at some point.
Nice observation.
Nice observation.
Nicely done so far!
Doing good so far Michael.
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