TubularFab
Recruit
- 2
- Aug 5, 2017
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Did you turn the engine backwards? That would push oil into the intake tubes and return it to the cylinders when you tried to start it. I would suggest a compression test. Remember that your numbers will be low because it hasn't run in a while, but you are looking for one cylinder with a far lower compression. As far as bore scoping, I don't know if that would tell you any thing, but it is worth a try.Hello - I found this forum while searching for a forum on radial engines. I have a Continental W-670 from a WWII landing craft / tank that I had set up on a stand for running at old engine shows. I had replaced the electric starter with a hand crack inertia starter and had it running great. Before starting I always removed the bottom cylinder spark plugs and hand turned it several revolutions to drain any accumulated oil - and it always had some if it sat very long. The last time I started it I had gone through this procedure. But, after priming it and winding up the starter it fired about 2 times then almost turned the stand over coming to an abrupt stop.
The only thing I can figure is there must have been some oil in an intake runner that didn't go in until it started moving faster than my hand cranking, and that it hydrualiced on it. This was about 15 years ago, and it's been sitting in the back of my shop since. I didn't want to tear into it and leave it as a basket case - and it's probably a good thing I didn't!
The crank turns freely about 355-360 degrees before it tightens and stops. I'm guessing a slave rod bent just enough that it is hitting the bottom of a jug - but that's just a guess.
I could use some advice on the best way (least disassembly) to figure out if it is just a bent slave rod and would be easy to repair. Is there any point of access that I could snake a borescope into the crankcase and try to see what damage was done? If it is damaged beyond repair I'd rather not disassemble and just try to see it for a display or parts. I am a mechanical engineer and an extremely experienced mechanic - just not with radials! The only radial I have partially dismantled is a little 5 cylinder Lawrance APU, and I didn't go in very far.
Any input would be appreciated!
Do you still have the w670 for sale or any parts and where are you located?Hello - I found this forum while searching for a forum on radial engines. I have a Continental W-670 from a WWII landing craft / tank that I had set up on a stand for running at old engine shows. I had replaced the electric starter with a hand crack inertia starter and had it running great. Before starting I always removed the bottom cylinder spark plugs and hand turned it several revolutions to drain any accumulated oil - and it always had some if it sat very long. The last time I started it I had gone through this procedure. But, after priming it and winding up the starter it fired about 2 times then almost turned the stand over coming to an abrupt stop.
The only thing I can figure is there must have been some oil in an intake runner that didn't go in until it started moving faster than my hand cranking, and that it hydrualiced on it. This was about 15 years ago, and it's been sitting in the back of my shop since. I didn't want to tear into it and leave it as a basket case - and it's probably a good thing I didn't!
The crank turns freely about 355-360 degrees before it tightens and stops. I'm guessing a slave rod bent just enough that it is hitting the bottom of a jug - but that's just a guess.
I could use some advice on the best way (least disassembly) to figure out if it is just a bent slave rod and would be easy to repair. Is there any point of access that I could snake a borescope into the crankcase and try to see what damage was done? If it is damaged beyond repair I'd rather not disassemble and just try to see it for a display or parts. I am a mechanical engineer and an extremely experienced mechanic - just not with radials! The only radial I have partially dismantled is a little 5 cylinder Lawrance APU, and I didn't go in very far.
Any input would be appreciated!
Have you checked with Airrepair (the certificate holder), Dusters & Sprayers Supply, Aircraft Spruce, or Yesteryear Aviation?Do you still have the w670 for sale or any parts and where are you located?
Thank you very much I will check out those other sites . I have heard of airrepair it's kinda like looking for a needle in a worldHave you checked with Airrepair (the certificate holder), Dusters & Sprayers Supply, Aircraft Spruce, or Yesteryear Aviationm?
Good luck!
Wes
They have a quite extensive website. I think you can get a fresh airworthy 0SMOH w670 for ONLY $29,975!! (exchange)I have heard of airrepair it's kinda like looking for a needle in a world
Here's another one to try:Thank you very much I will check out those other sites . I have heard of airrepair it's kinda like looking for a needle in a world