Also not sure about it. But I would try to ask him via the net.
However the correction for a such big model is so easy that I wouldn't spend my money for anything I could make myself.
B-24J Ford Conversion
- Thread starter Trebor
- Start date
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Also not sure about it. But I would try to ask him via the net.
However the correction for a such big model is so easy that I wouldn't spend my money for anything I could make myself.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I agree my friend. There's more needs correcting internally on the kit than the relatively simple external conversion to the 'H' Model.
Good stuff Geo, the answer to the ball turret question is bound to be in that book !
Good stuff Geo, the answer to the ball turret question is bound to be in that book !
fubar57
General
Thanks Terry....from the above book....
Geo
Geo
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Great stuff Geo, well done. This one will make an 'out of the ordinary' model, as the ball turret was removed, but the aperture not fared over, as on 'standard' squadron aircraft. It'll also make things easier for Rob, as he won't have to replicate the riveted sheet alloy!
T Bolt
Colonel
- Thread starter
- #48
Here is the resin nose I mentioned earlier 1/48 B-24 Ford Nose Conversion
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I would assume that some sort of inner hatch cover would have been fabricated. I've seen a photo of a couple of aircraft with the empty turret mount, where they are airborne, looking up at them from a 3/4 angle, and the ball turret aperture certainly is a gaping hole, so yes, it would be darned dangerous without an internal hatch cover !
Rob, you could use that resin nose conversion (if it's still available - I don't think it's currently listed), but it seems a lot of work, not to mention expense, when the modification can be done with plastic card, the way Glenn did it on his 1/72nd scale model.
Rob, you could use that resin nose conversion (if it's still available - I don't think it's currently listed), but it seems a lot of work, not to mention expense, when the modification can be done with plastic card, the way Glenn did it on his 1/72nd scale model.
Yep.. I seen it too. However ... plastic is plastic. Always it's easier to stick with the standard glue for a polistyrene. ALso I agree with Terry that the relatively simple external conversion doesn't require any extra purchases.
Rob, I have worked on these two images posted by you above. I used the Photoshop to put one above the other for a comparison. Can you see where there is the difference? All you have to do is to make from scratch a clear bottom part , spackle of a few panel lines with a putty and engrave one new line alternatively.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
When the wiper motor cover is removed from the kit, along with those unwanted 'gills', the nose between turret and bombardier's window is then almost the correct shape, and just needs sanding to introduce the curve.
I'll post some scale drawings and photos of the kit parts, showing this, later today.
I'll post some scale drawings and photos of the kit parts, showing this, later today.
- Thread starter
- #53
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
The bombardier's observation windows are included in the one-piece vac form moulding for the new main bombardier's window. You just cut out a section of the kit nose, following the instructions supplied with the Squadron vac form part, and fit the complete section.
The cockpit canopy is also the correct style for your subject.
As already mentioned, the only other stuff you'd have to make are the blown navigator's windows, and the waist gun windows and gun mounts.
The cockpit canopy is also the correct style for your subject.
As already mentioned, the only other stuff you'd have to make are the blown navigator's windows, and the waist gun windows and gun mounts.
- Thread starter
- #55
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
For the navigator's windows, you could adapt the 'blisters' from the cockpit side panels, and fit them into the apertures. They won't be exactly right, but they'll look passable. There actually was a mod like this used by the 446th BG, at Bungay, although they fastened the panel on the outside of the aperture, horizontally, and, when I get around to building mine, I'll be replicating this on 'Naughty Nancy'.
For the waist windows, if you feel you don't have the skill to tackle them, then again you could make an acceptably 'passable' version quite simply. OK, it wouldn't be 100% accurate for your subject, but better than the open hatches, and no one would be the wiser.
And unless you try, you'll never know what you can achieve!
It's a lot easier than you might think Rob, and if you can use a rule to measure, and a scalpel to cut, it can be done.
First, sand off the slipstream deflector at the leading edge of each hatch. Then, 'straighten' the openings by cutting a filing the curved corners, until the hatch openings are rectangular. The actual windows, complete with the guns, can be fitted once the model is built and painted, which I'll cover next.
But first, accurately measure the dimensions of each aperture - there'll probably be a slight difference between each one - and it's easier to measure in millimeters.
Cut two pieces of clear sheet to match these measurements, and check for fit in the respectgive hatch openings.
Then, using one of the kit's guns as a reference, drill a hole in the forward, lower edge of the windows you've just made, referring to photos and Glenn's build. Slot the guns into place in these holes, and fix with a spot of PVA. The guns cab be painted at this stage.
Once the model is built and painted, the windows, complete with guns, can then be fixed in place, using PVA, with a couple of spots of poly cement.
From the outside, as far as anyone is concerned, they'll look like the 'proper' windows and, unless someone checks the very complex mods made in the life of the B-24, no one will know.
OK, you won't be able to attach the ammo flexi-feed tracks, but these aren't supplied anyway, and you'd have to scratch-build them, or use a PE set, planning the build around the internal detail.
Hope this helps Rob, but before you start on the model, think about what is needed throughout the build, and how you're going to do it, and research anything you're doubtful about. Time spent on research and planning is rarely wasted, to adapt a well-known military phrase!
Remember the 7 P's !!!!
For the waist windows, if you feel you don't have the skill to tackle them, then again you could make an acceptably 'passable' version quite simply. OK, it wouldn't be 100% accurate for your subject, but better than the open hatches, and no one would be the wiser.
And unless you try, you'll never know what you can achieve!
It's a lot easier than you might think Rob, and if you can use a rule to measure, and a scalpel to cut, it can be done.
First, sand off the slipstream deflector at the leading edge of each hatch. Then, 'straighten' the openings by cutting a filing the curved corners, until the hatch openings are rectangular. The actual windows, complete with the guns, can be fitted once the model is built and painted, which I'll cover next.
But first, accurately measure the dimensions of each aperture - there'll probably be a slight difference between each one - and it's easier to measure in millimeters.
Cut two pieces of clear sheet to match these measurements, and check for fit in the respectgive hatch openings.
Then, using one of the kit's guns as a reference, drill a hole in the forward, lower edge of the windows you've just made, referring to photos and Glenn's build. Slot the guns into place in these holes, and fix with a spot of PVA. The guns cab be painted at this stage.
Once the model is built and painted, the windows, complete with guns, can then be fixed in place, using PVA, with a couple of spots of poly cement.
From the outside, as far as anyone is concerned, they'll look like the 'proper' windows and, unless someone checks the very complex mods made in the life of the B-24, no one will know.
OK, you won't be able to attach the ammo flexi-feed tracks, but these aren't supplied anyway, and you'd have to scratch-build them, or use a PE set, planning the build around the internal detail.
Hope this helps Rob, but before you start on the model, think about what is needed throughout the build, and how you're going to do it, and research anything you're doubtful about. Time spent on research and planning is rarely wasted, to adapt a well-known military phrase!
Remember the 7 P's !!!!
- Thread starter
- #57
All you need for making of these observation windows is some clear foil from wrappings , a wooden stick shaped to the bulged window, a frying pan and some of edible oil .
Also go there and read the thread. It is the same techique for obtaining of these windows and the entire clear bottom part for the bomber. The difference is that you have to use the clear foil instead of the white polistyrene I used in the thread. This is the easiest way for making a such parts.
http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/bu...w-make-your-own-pilots-seat-models-26095.html
- Thread starter
- #59
well, I am definitely going to think abotu this quite a lot. I did contact Squadron and told them they're missing some things with the Ford built nose. The waist gunner, according to this photo: is unaltered. so I do not believe I have to mess with the waist gunner positions. just the nose. SOUTHERN COMFORT III (PIC 3)
Lucky13
Forum Mascot
Great stuff gentlemen!
