Canopies- freehand or mask?

[Zippythehog]

I'm trying to up the finish of my birds (not just Finish Buffaloes either). I used to freehand paint, then mask with multiple thinly cut strips of tape.
I stumbled across this tonight at Blicks.
Anyone use this? Any tricks or traps?

Thanks

 

[Airframes]

Definitely mask.
I used to paint canopy frames freehand, IF they were well defined, such as those on the 1970's / 1980's Revell / Monogram kits, but that was when my hands were steadier, and my eyes sharper.
It takes time and effort to mask, but i's always worth it - many potentially good models are let down by poor canopy frame painting, and also by not being fitted and blended-in properly.
That liquid frisket looks similar to Humbrol 'Maskol' and other similar products, but is designed for the graphics market predominantly, so might not have the fine definition needed for model work.
Liquid masks, mainly a type of rubber or latex material, are fine for 'blocking in' large areas, but it's normally better to do the frame edges with tape, well burnished down.

 

[Crimea_River]

Terry's nailed it. I've never used liquid mask, just tape. I sometimes re-use larger pieces for the blocking in areas, being of frugal persuasion.

 

[Finn Andersen]

I use masks as well and the following trick told me by a master craftsman:
After applying the mask, spray or paint with the base colour, for a canopy that would be clear. This will stop next paint from seeping in under the mask.

/Finn

 

[Airframes]

For general masking, yes, apply the base colour first.
For canopies, a gloss clear coat can be applied first, followed by the interior colour, and then the required frame colour.

 

[mikewint]

While I do not disagree I would add, that I generally freehand with a Sharpie/Marksal paint pen or even a felt tip marker.
As for tape if needed, I use FROG brand. The adhesive reacts with the paint to prevent any creep plus it comes off cleanly with no residue

 

[Builder 2010]

I've been modeling for over 60 years and just learned about the "inside color first" technique. I always wondered how guys got the interior color in place. I thought they masked the inside as well and that would drive me crazy. I'm married to Tamiya tape. I find it produces the cleanest lines possible and is very forgiving. I'm about to try my first set of Eduard flexible masks on the TBM. I hope they work as well as I think they should. The other problem with liquid masks is how well they adhere to styrene. i've use PVA white glue in a pinch to mask some little areas (like 1:48 B-17 windows) and it worked pretty well.

 

[Airframes]

Whenever practical and possible, I try to paint the inside of canopy frames. It's easier if the canopy is first masked on the outside, and the interior colour painted first, as this gives a more defined background, where it's difficult, or impossible, to mask internally. The interior colour can then be painted, very carefully, freehand, concentrating on the center line of each frame.
this gives an almost '3D' effect, which, when viewed through the canopy, looks a little like raised framework.

 

[Zippythehog]

Wow. I've picked up a lot. Armed with new techniques to try, I'm more motivated to finish the Re.2001.

 

[Wayne Little]

Masking tape always the best if you want the best result....agree with all the comments above.

 

[stona]

As above, mask and paint. For really tricky projects, like the clear parts of a 1/48 Lancaster or 1/32 He 111 I will invest in after market pre-cut masks. I can do it myself, but frankly would rather spend a few bob and avoid the hassle.

On other useful technique is the use of decal film or tape, painted the correct colour. On some old kits with absolutely no definition imparted to the clear parts from the molds this can be a very useful method of creating 'do it yourself' framing. I built the ancient Airfix 1/72 Ju 88 for someone a couple of years ago and this was the method I used for that.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Airframes]

Yes, painted clear tape works very well.
The Harvard shown below has canopy frames made from painted clear parcel tape, and the exposed internal frames for the Mosquito canopy were done the same way, placing the tape on the inside of the canopy.

 

[mikewint]

That's amazing Terry, I'd have thought that the paint would crack if/when the tape was flexed.

 

[Airframes]

I stick the tape onto a glass drinks coaster, paint it, giving it at least two coats, and let it dry for at least three hours. It's then cut using a new blade in the scalpel, and carefully peeled from the glass.
I have had the odd bit of flaking, normally at the ends of the strips, but I cut them longer than required, so it hasn't been a problem.
That said, Andy tried this technique recently, and experienced paint peeling, cracking and flaking.
Note that the paint is enamel, and not acrylic - I don't know if it would work with the latter.

 

[mikewint]

Good question Terry, not sure but would not expect much ability to flex. Andy's results are what I'd expect. The only real problems I've encountered are with the smooth canopies with no frame embossing. As long as I have some kind/type of groove to work with the fine tip of the marker/paint pen fits perfectly. Been thinking about trying the liquid masks.

 

[stona]

I do something very similar to Terry with tape...and use enamel paints too. I have had the odd bit of paint loss, but nothing that can't be fixed by a brush with a lot of zeros on the handle
Cheers
Steve

 

[mikewint]

Picked up some Microbrush applicators in superfine. A 1-2mm tip which is bendable. So far they seem to work better than the 2-hair brushes and the fuzzy heads are very durable

 

[at6]

I primarily use liquid mask. Micro-mark Mask It Easy or then there is Micro mask if you can find it. I have an old Airfix Harvard in 1/72 scale that may have to get the old tape treatment even though I really never liked that way. The Micro Mark is in a fairly large bottle which will give you a long term supply.

 

[at6]

Yes, painted clear tape works very well.
The Harvard shown below has canopy frames made from painted clear parcel tape, and the exposed internal frames for the Mosquito canopy were done the same way, placing the tape on the inside of the canopy.


View attachment 370324 View attachment 370325

You sir get bacon for the Harvard.

 

[Airframes]

Thanks very much !
It's the Italeri (ex- Occidental) 1/48th scale kit, with the canopy framing altered, and an extended exhaust made from tube.