Choice of filler? Whats the best?

Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules

gijive

Airman 1st Class
I am currently using Molak Stucco putty-model filler, which to its plus side is very smooth and creamy, but to it's negitive side if used in a situation where a little flex may take place, say a bad fitting join, it more often than not breaks up and falls out during sanding.

Any better altenatives, what do you find best?
 
I use Tamiya white putty, sometimes Revel one.For bigger corrections I use Gunze Sangyo Mr Putty Epoxy Strong or Mr Epoxy Putty Light P117.For very small and thin gaps I use a talc powder mixed with a light grey paint ( an enemel) and Superglue - a cyanoacrylate glue.
 

Attachments

  • Tamiya  Basic Putty White .jpg
    Tamiya Basic Putty White .jpg
    15.9 KB · Views: 157
  • Revell Plasto Body Putty.jpg
    Revell Plasto Body Putty.jpg
    15.5 KB · Views: 171
  • Gunze Sangyo  Mr Putty Epoxy Strong .jpg
    Gunze Sangyo Mr Putty Epoxy Strong .jpg
    21.5 KB · Views: 132
  • Gunze Sangyo  Mr Epoxy Putty Light P117.jpg
    Gunze Sangyo Mr Epoxy Putty Light P117.jpg
    22.6 KB · Views: 146
I've never hears of the one you use Chris. Those that Wurger uses are very good, and, like Lucky, I use Milliput, and have done for over 30 years. I'd tried virtually every filler available until then , but, of course, things have changed a lot since the '70's! Some of the ones available now aren't available to me locally, so I stick with Milliput, which is very versatile, and can be moulded, drilled, tapped, applied 'wet' as a thin bead etc.
Of course, the choice of filler depends on the job, and I also use superglue as well as Kristal Klear, and talcum powder mixed with gloss clear varnish. The latter can also be used to seal, and then provide a glass-like finish on, balsa wood when making moulds, or plugging large gaps, or scratch-building large sub-sections of models.
 
For relatively small filling jobs, I like to use polystyrene cement, which in my case I use Testors. It dries hard and smooth, if you're careful doesn't have bubbles and has the added advantage of strengthening whatever joint you're using it on. Like Airframes, I use Kristal Klear, in my case for natural join lines where I don't want to obliterate the line, but soften it up a bit and close up any small gaps. The nice thing about Kristal Klear is you can wipe away the excess with water. I've never been really satisfied with any of the "true" fillers I've used, like Tamiya or Squadron as they always seem to have some shrinkage, especially Squadron. I can't tell you how many times I've waited a week or more for the filler to dry, then sanded it absolutely smooth, only to notice a week or so later it's sunken into the hole I was filling. I have some Milliput, but have never used it. Next time I have a big filling job, I may give it a try.

Venganza
 
I must try the Tamiya putty for some jobs, as I've heard it's pretty good. But for the bigger jobs, and moulding parts etc, I'll stick with Milliput.
Venganza, when you try the Milliput, I think you'll be impressed.
After using it to 'fill' a hole in one of my teeth, when the original filling came out, it stayed put for over six years! The dentist was well impressed when I next had to go there! NOTE:- I am NOT reccomending you try this at home!!!
 
...try the Milliput, I think you'll be impressed.
After using it to 'fill' a hole in one of my teeth, when the original filling came out, it stayed put for over six years! The dentist was well impressed ...
He was less impressed with the German camouflage scheme that you painted it though, he thought the balkenkreuz were wrong for the period...:D
 
I must try the Tamiya putty for some jobs, as I've heard it's pretty good. But for the bigger jobs, and moulding parts etc, I'll stick with Milliput.
Venganza, when you try the Milliput, I think you'll be impressed.
After using it to 'fill' a hole in one of my teeth, when the original filling came out, it stayed put for over six years! The dentist was well impressed when I next had to go there! NOTE:- I am NOT reccomending you try this at home!!!

Bl**dy Heck, Airframes! I've often thought I have enough fine modelling implements to go into the dentistry business, but I never thought of doing it on myself! However, my dad busted his head awhile back (nothing serious), and I offered to close the gash with some superglue. Strangely, he declined my kind offer and went to the doctor instead. Parents! (I will give the Milliput a try, on my models, not on my teeth.)

Venganza
 
Super Glue Gel and Sometimes Epoxy. Squadron White Putty seems to do OK, but I prefer something that sands more like the rest of the styrene.
Problem with Super Glue is that it shrinks like mad so usually more than one try is necessary.

- Ivan.
 
He was less impressed with the German camouflage scheme that you painted it though, he thought the balkenkreuz were wrong for the period...:D

Good one, Colin1.:lol: Seriously, glad we could be of help, GIJive.

Venganza
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back