Decal Solvents

[Ralph Haus]

I'm trying to step up my modeling game by improving the appearance of the decals after being applied. I've read some useful info here in the forums but I have a more specific question on brands and strength. I have read the reviews for the MicroScale products, SET and SOL. I have also found the Tamiya line. Tamiya appears to have a bit higher user rating and is a bit less expensive per volume unit. However, they have the Tamiya Mark Fit and the Mark Fit STRONG. Anyone have any preferences as to which brand, or in the case of Tamiya, strength?

Now if I can get my camo painting techniques improved I might start posting some photos for critique?

 

[Donivanp]

I've not used the Tamiya so I can't speak for it. The Micro Sol and Micro Set is what I've been using and am quite happy with the results. Most of the time I only use the Sol. The set is supposed to allow you to set the decal and the sol to have it adhere to the subject. I can't see that there is much difference between the two. I've used Solvaset in the past and it is very strong. One puts it on and run away don't walk but run. It will look like your decals are destroyed but give it time and they will adhere like they were painted on.

 

[fubar57]

I use, in order of use, Micro Set/Sol, Mr. Mark Setter/Softner and my dwindling supply of Polly Scale Decal Set/Sol. I feel that there is an increase of strength though I use the Micro the most. Somewhere in my house is a bottle of "when all else fails" Walthers Solvaset

 

[Crimea_River]

Don't worry about your camo finishes before posting pictures. We're all here to help and no need to be shy or embarrassed.

 

[Builder 2010]

Having used all of the above other than Tamiya, I just recently learned that they are basically formulated for their own brand of decals and, while working with others, may have deleterious effects. For example, Microscale products work best on their decals. Tamiya works best on Tamiya. Solvaset almost destroyed home made decals on inkjet decal paper. Test the product on a non-critical decal before using on the the huge roundel that can't be replaced. I'm never quite sure of when to use MicroSol versus MicroSet.

 

[ktank]

I mostly use normal Tamiya Mark Fit with the Strong kept in reserve for recalcitrant decals - "We haff vays of making you comply!"

The only problem is over Vallejo paints, which are softer than Tamiya/Gunze acrylics, where Mark Fit can leave a light discolouration. So I've now bought some of Vallejo's decal softeners for use over their paints, although haven't got to use them next.

Gunze also does a set/solvent pair.

 

[DogMan]

What product(s) does everyone use for the Hasegawa decals?

 

[Crimea_River]

I don't do anything different between manufacturers but may do more applications based on how they react.

 

[Airframes]

Same here.
I only use Micro Sol, and have done for the last 40+ years.
The 'Sol' is supposed to soften the decal, whilst the 'Set' is supposed to 'drawn down' the decal to conform to the surface detail.
I've found that the 'Sol', by itself, does both. If a decal is particularly thick, stiff or troublesome, then, like Andy, I apply further small amounts of 'Sol', using a soft paint brush.
Better to apply a little, as needed, and repeat as required, than apply one dose of a 'strong' solution which may damage the decal and / or paint finish.
And if in doubt about the quality, and particularly the age of the decals, then spray a clear gloss acrylic varnish (not Future ! )onto the sheet before use, and let it dry for at least 15 minutes.
BTW, vinegar and water, which are a similar base to decal solutions, works quite well too, although tests need to be made to get the 'mix' as required.

 

[Ralph Haus]

All great responses. However let me expand the topic. I have an Fw190A (Airfix) that I completed about three months ago. I applied the decals over a matt acrylic finish. So they are bare to the world. Some of the decals behaved but a couple on the fuselage did not. Some details are just to defined. I used Testors Decal Set for the original application. Today received my shipment of Tamiya Mark-Fix, reg and strong, applying both to the non-conforming decals. Neither seems to be affecting the shape of these Airfix decals? Is there a time limit on fixing (getting them to conform) decals? Or perhaps Airfix decals are less sensitive to the Tamiya solvents? Which might lend credability to the mfg and their decal solutions needing to be used together?

 

[fubar57]

For some hard to conform decals I've had success using very hot water and a cotton cloth such as an old T-shirt. Get the cloth as hot as you can stand to hold and then gently press into the decal. I just had to do this with some Fantasy Printshop decals after giving them multiple coat of every decal solution I own and even still I can just make out the panel lines in the decal

 

[Airframes]

Decals on a matt finish will probably never fully conform, die to the 'rough' surface of the paint, which traps air beneath the decal.
Better to apply a good, even clear gloss coat, let it set for at least 24 hours, and then apply the decals.
Once the decals are set, and the surfaces cleaned, then apply the required clear coat - matt, semi-matt or gloss etc.

 

[at6]

You should have glossed it first. There is no way to use a setting solution on a matt finish with any hope of good results.

 

[ktank]

Decals on a matt finish will probably never fully conform, die to the 'rough' surface of the paint, which traps air beneath the decal.
Better to apply a good, even clear gloss coat, let it set for at least 24 hours, and then apply the decals.
Once the decals are set, and the surfaces cleaned, then apply the required clear coat - matt, semi-matt or gloss etc.

If you want to go to the nth degree, leave the decals overnight then spray another coat of clear. This provides a more even finish. If you want to put matt/satin over the top of that, let it dry overnight.