**** DONE: 1/72 Sea Fury FB11 RAN 21 CAG - Your Favorite Aircraft of All Time GB

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meatloaf109 said:
Very cool aircraft. Ranks right up there, (I.M.H.O.), with the Corsair and the Ta. 152.
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yes, it is....ranks with a handful of other aircraft as being the apex of piston engined fighter development. Ranks up ther with P-51H, TA 152 and perhaps LA-11 as being the best of the best
 
Can report I made a small start tonite, though not enough to post photos. Have sprayed the inside of the fuselage and have the cockpit assembled. front instrumewnt panel was painted, and looks okay. Have painted the seat details, still have the harness to do. Decking is done, but I need to finish painting the cockpit
 
Yes

I am doing the example that is in the Australian War memorial. SN 109. I want to depict the a/c at the time of the UN action in Korea, and unfortunately that means I have to do SN 109. I had wanted to do SN103
 
Last night I spent most of the time finishing my Wessex. Its come together very nicely. I have to apply a clear topcoat (I find you really have no choice but to do that with acrylic and anyway the finish on the RAN Wessex was a gloss or semigloss anyway). I have to apply the decal set and then shes finished. then i can concentrate on the Fury. Am realy looking forward to getting stuck in on this one.

I have some questions. Last night I bought a photoetching kit from Eduard for the 1/72 trumpeter Sea Fury. it was just too pretty to resist. It was pretty cheap, at just $5 (Aus). The cockpits for the trumpeter look very similar to mine, so I am hoping the kit will go in without a hitch. The finishes for the Photoetching kit are stunning, but I have never applied photo etched parts. Anyone allowed to give any tips on how best to use them? I watched some clips on Utube last night which were helpful, but the parts are tiny, and most were recommending slow drying acrylic adhesive (which looked similar to PVA). Can you not just use the standard Revell modelling glue or similar?

I also wanted to know how or can i amend my entry. At the moment I have no accessories listed, but thats an incorrect statement. I actually should say I have an aftermarket RAN Decal set, and of course I now want to use a new photo-etching cockpit kit. What do i have to do to modify my entry form please judges?

The kit will take 7-10 days to get here, which is a downer because I have to build the cockpit before I do anything really.

Finally, i hope I havent wasted the money on this kit. 1/72 for WWII era aircraft is tiny and I am concerned that all this interior kit detail will be lost. I am aiming for a stunning interior finish (along with everything else) for this build. The fury really is one of my all time favs, and I want it to be as much of a show stopper as I can achieve....
 
Normal polystyrene cement will not work well, if at all, with metal etched parts Michael. The PVA can work, but CA ("Superglue") is probably better, applied with the tip of a pin or similar.
As for changing the entry details, i think a Mod may have to do this for you. No doubt Wojtek or Chris will oblige when they see your last post.
 
I too use CA glue. For those fiddly little bits I use a CA accelerator. A quick squirt gives an instant bond and avoids having to hold pieces in place whilst the glue dries. I'm less likely to glue the part (or model) to my fingers,applicator,tweezers or the neighbour's cat.
Cheers
Steve
 
Just go to post #1 and clock on the "Edit Post" button at the bottom and change what you have written after Accessories. I've done it several times when I've added something or not used something that I had listed.
 
Yep.. that's the way you can edit your posts. In addition... if you would like to attach pictures to existed your posts you should hit the Edit Post button and then Go Advanced. Scroll a screen a little bit down and you will find the Manage Attachment button for it. Of course you can edit a post there too.
 
Hi steve


What is a CA accelarator?
 
It's a kind of a catalyst that causes the CA to set faster.It should be used with thick or medium CA to get fillets to set before the glue has a chance to drip or run.

The liquid is offered as a spray in cans... CA Super Glue Accelerator
 
Thankyou Wurger. With the greatest respect to Steve, what is your opinion on this stuff.....and advantage for micro photo etching work, or not worth the effort? at only $5-10 dollars its seems like a small purchase. I can see advantages to spraying this stuff to one component, and the CA to another for more or less instant adhesion.

I have medium thickness CA glue in my tool kit.

Is ther material for removing CA adhesion if the process goes wrong...that is if the piece is not placed correctly or similar?
 
My $0,02 on the accelerator stuff, as I too have used this accelerator stuff a few times. I've found it to be of little use actually. First it seems to react with the plastic sometimes... (testing it on a piece of scrap plastic or a piece of sprue from the kit might be useful to see to what extend this happens without doing damaged to your kit parts, as different plastic seems to react differently) Either way, damaging your plastic parts is something you don't want to happen.

With CA setting up rather quickly as is (even without using accelerator) when you use small amounts, for example when you glue PE parts in place...I've actually found that using the accelerator does not work to my advantage at all, as you only have one go at putting your PE part in place. If you mis-align it there's no way to correct it, other then remove the part again (with the risk of damaging those delicate parts) and give it another go.

When it comes to PE parts I prefer working with a thicker gel-like version of CA (applied with say a toothpick or something). Takes about 20-30 second to set up sufficiently to hold a part in place and also gives a little more breathing space to make sure a PE part is placed correctly.

I believe there some stuff out there that helps you remove CA, the active component probably being acetone. So, a mild nail polish remover without too much acetone prolly could work as well, but again...with acetone being involved (either in the official CA removal stuff or in nail polish remover) testing on a piece of plastic to see what it does, and make sure it doesn't cause any damage is something to remember.
 
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