Facebook found propeller need help identify and tear down

[Joshuaflorestx26]

hey yall new to the forum, joined really because I found this propeller on Facebook market place for a good deal. My father is helicopter electrician, so I have alittle air craft knowledge. Thought it would be really cool to have in my gun room.

What I was told was this was a gentleman that flew in ww2 and this was his propeller. He has passed a couple years ago the couple I bought it from, saved it to remember him.

There are no markings or stamps on the out side so I decided to take it apart to find any form of id marks, part numbers, serial plates. I have found a couple inspection stamps. B 50 in a circle, P 172 in square. Is there anyone out there with a diagram on taking the blades off? And does anyone even know what it may go to? I included a photo of 3 pins that the guy gave me that had the propeller. Any idea what the winged one is looks homemade?

 

[Crimea_River]

A Quiet Birdmen Wing

 

[Joshuaflorestx26]

Yes thank you sorry for not clarifying that. I have identified quite birdman and aircraft owners and pilots association, any information on the white wing looking one?

 

[MiTasol]

Going by the gear attached to the rear I would be looking for information on Beech-Roby propellers. I have never worked on one and do not know if they have wooden blades but that would be my first guess. Many/all of those props had the pitch changed by winding a handle in the cockpit The B50 stamp may well be a Beech stamp. To remove the blades remove the four bolts clamping the hub together. To disassemble the blades you will need information on how the blade clamps are designed but at first glance removing the three bolts on the counterweight assembly may be all that is required. If you cannot find Beech Roby info look for Hamilton Standard 2D40 manual as the hub, spider and blade clamps are fairly similar in design. The prop is definitely not an Aeromatic. It could possibly be a Flottorp? - again a type I have no experience on.

Somewhere I have info on the Beech props - probably in Technical Manual TM 1-412 (from memory) propellers which unfortunately I do not have time to look for at present. Do a web search for "TM1-412". There are descriptions of other less common props in that book as well. A search for the "US Navy propellers" training manual would also provide information. Both are probably readily available on the net for free at places like archive.org

Please let us know how you progress, preferably with more photos as this is not a common every day prop and many of us will be most interested on how it looks in pieces and again when cleaned and reassembled.

Have fun.

EDIT - that prop appears to have a #20 spline and the 2D40 has a #40 spline but the general construction appears very similar. Internally it may be totally different but I suspect they will be similar enough for the 2D40 data to provide you with enough information to disassemble it without doing any damage.

 

[Joshuaflorestx26]

Man thats what I'm talking about love the internet sometimes. That's a lot information I will definitely look into all that online. And will definitely upload some more photos. Of teardown, clean up

 

[Michael Hope]

I have not personal worked on a split hub Beech Roby propeller, but from what I have seen it appears to be from the R200 series, could be an R203 version, which could be used on a Fairchild 24, Grumman Widgeon, Fairchild PT-19 and PT-26, Beech 35, A35. The balance rings, the outer most ring, and then counterweights on the blades are the same type that Beech used.

 

[Joshuaflorestx26]

Got it taken apart to here. There is a 7/16 in there going to have to shave a wrench down to get in there tomorrow. I believe it to be a r201???? Any objections?

 

[MiTasol]

Nice

 

[Joshuaflorestx26]

Finally got this puppy apart. Time to clean it tomorrow. Had to find the wrenchs first I guess covid 19 is causing a wrench shortage and I wasn't going to modify my snap-on wrenches for a maybe but anyone doing this HAS TO MAKE THIS WRENCH Harbour freight s shape wrenches the set is 20$ the craftsman i made at a first attempt but it didn't work so it just helpd in loosing it.

 

[MiTasol]

Nice - it will be interesting to see the pitch change mechanism apart as well and then to work out how it actually worked.

 

[Joshuaflorestx26]

Took the center hub to work to tear down and clean. This is it apart

 

[Joshuaflorestx26]

And that's sorta a step by step on putting it together. That's all I took to work so I will hopefully get the rest together tomorrow. But you can see that the ringed part cas threads on the inside that moves the part in first picture with the forks up and down so that does some sort of adjustment. More stuff to come

 

[Michael Hope]

View attachment 588068View attachment 588069View attachment 588070
And that's sorta a step by step on putting it together. That's all I took to work so I will hopefully get the rest together tomorrow. But you can see that the ringed part cas threads on the inside that moves the part in first picture with the forks up and down so that does some sort of adjustment. More stuff to come

The toothed gear is upside down. If you look at your earlier pictures you can see the the bevel on the gear goes towards the hub. This is a common mistake made when working on the pitch change mechanism.

 

[Joshuaflorestx26]

You know man I thought about it on the drive home. Looked and was like man got it upside down but the photos are up already. Yea ima swap it today. Thanks for not seeing the zip tie bolt. Hahahaha I cleaned all the hardware and one blade today.

 

[vikingBerserker]

Really doing a great job so far, this is pretty interesting.

 

[Joshuaflorestx26]

Alright guys this is what I used to strip the paint off and it did a great job. Just gotta let the wood dry for about a week before any clear coat. Didn't find any serial numbers or anything stamped or branded on the blades so ima have to contact notplanejane.com to see if they can help in any identification of this exact set

 

[Michael Hope]

The serial numbers and model numbers for the blades are usually marked on the butt end of blade.
The tips of the blade can have a layer of fiberglass or cloth covering them to help prevent surface damage, which can be seen in your images. If done correctly it is under the metal leading edge.
The gear looks great installed that way.

 

[herman1rg]

Those wooden blades will look awesome with clear coat to highlight the grain.