Getting started but need answers!!

[GingahNinja]

Hi Gents,

So I'm planning on getting back into modelling slowly. however I haven't done a model in probably 10 years, don't have an airbrush (and won't be getting one) but I do have a few questions.

1: What brand models are usually "the best" as far as quality? I've always leaned towards Revell and Airfix, but again it's been 10 years so I don't know what else is out there.

2: What glue or adhesive should be used. I use to use the rubber cement but have recently found a bunch of other paint-on glues and epoxies so now my head is spinning.

3: Is it better and cheaper to buy a package of paints with varying colors or to buy individual paints?


Also I'll be buying 1/72 scale for now simply cause I can build them quick and they are cheap to buy so when my kids decide to play with them, I won't be heart broken if they break haha. That and I can get a couple extra kits and let them paint/build them too.

Thanks in advance guys!

 

[Crimea_River]

1. Tamiya or Hasegawa but you will pay for it. New tool Airfix kits are less expensive and seem to be pretty decent. So if you're giving them to your kids to play with, I'd go with something cheaper.

2. I use Tamiya Extra Thin cement for almost all of my gluing needs. For small items with very little surface to glue, CA glue (cyanoacrylate - the old "crazy glue") works well.

3. Depends on your "theme". If you're going to do exclusively, say, US WW2 aircraft, then a US colour package might be the way to go. If you're going to be more diverse, it's probably best to buy individual paints. Now you'll need to decide between acrylics or enamels and, since you are brushing, I would recommend enamels.

 

[Airframes]

I agree with Andy on all points. As to which kits, first decide on a scale, then see what's available in that scale for your chosen subject. If it's 1/48th scale, then Tamiya and Hasegawa are good and basically 'idiot proof', although Hasegawa tend to be way over-priced. Some of the older Airfix kits are still good, although perhaps slightly basic by today's standards, and it's best to ask about specific kits before buying - some are still good, some have suffered through mould wear and so on. Many forum members can probably advise on this.
Additionally, the old Monogram kits, mainly now under the Revell label, still provide good models, and an excellent basis for learning, whilst the newer Revell kits tend to be very good generally, and excellent value for money.
If brush painting, then definitely enamel paints.

 

[GingahNinja]

Thanks guys for the advice. Pretty much hit everything on that I was questioning.

Again I'll most likely be sticking to 1/72 scale for now. Quick and easier to build which allows the boys a little more time helping with the painting or building of it.

Thanks again!

 

[mikewint]

The only thing that I would add to the above comments is: #1. Consider an airbrush it will make a great deal of difference in how your models look and will make your cammo schemes look much better. #2. Mil-flat paints have to be over-painted with Future to give a smooth surface for decals. #3. Microsol and/or Microset for your decals it will "melt" them into the model making them look painted on.
The above were the three most valuable lessons I learned from the great guys on this site

 

[Lucky13]

Oh, my bad....its 'need' not 'weed'....

 

[mikewint]

Jan, we're trying hard to maintain a professional veneer here

 

[N4521U]

I have personally found Humbrol in the yellow tube has works best for me. I do a lot of Styrene scratch building and it holds like magic. It's thin and fast. I can work with it in about an hour. Like moet tho, overnight is best.

BTW, I'm on the far right of the photo above. Sure!

 

[Airframes]

Yes, that's an old sepia-toned print, which has been colourised to make it look modern. Bill was only 13 when it was taken, back in ...................

 

[parsifal]

I use Revell cement for my injection models, but you will also need CA glue for your resin kits. I prefer a cutting blade to an exacto knife, and have both a small sized knife and a larger one. I make sure i have a lot of spare blades and at least chnge the blade before each build.

Youve got a choice with the paints to go either acrylic or enamel. There are pros and cons for both types. Acrylics are less of a health risk, dry quickly and can mix with water (but you should thin using acylic thinner. The best range for acrylics is tamiya. Dont know too much about enamels, dont use them. Fine grade sanding paper is also a must, and i would say some form of mini sanding block which you mighht need to make yourself. I use a range of papers, mostly because I get impatient with the really fine stuff, but for me, I use a range, varying from 360 grain through to 2000 grain. ive also sometimes used automotive wet and dry because it gives a really high quality finish, but you should that in the "strange" category i think.

tools that you might need could include a fine set of files, cotton balls, a good set of brushes, and probably an airbrush, though there are people here who do a really fine job and dont have one. If you adopt acrylics, you will need acylic cleaner, the best quality at a reasonable price is automotive cleaning spirit. I can buy 1 litre of the stuff for AU $14, about 12/10 the price charged at modelling shops.

If you can lay your hands on futures floor polish, it is highly recommended around here .

If you are an old guy, a well lit work space is highly recommended, and I would also say it needs to be a dedicated space. if you have to put everything away each day, its a royal pain. I would also recommend some form of clamps and lots of model tape (Tamiya I think is best)