Making and applying your own enamel washes!

Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules

Vengeance

Airman
90
2
Jul 2, 2012
Melbourne
Hi guys,
Seen alot of Youtube vids where people are making their own washes with inks and acrylics. However, I prefer to use enamels usually humbrol, so I don't own any acrylics.
Would I just thin down a black or dark color with thinners or turps and apply as I've seen acrylics applied or is there a different technique?
I'm looking to apply some wash to a couple of wheel wells and later a cockpit that are cockpit green.

I guess what I'm saying is that I've seen alot of tutorials on acrylics but none on enamel washing techniques. Could someone please help me with some information or point me n the direction of some!

Thanks in advance!!
Only a new guy here, but really enjoying this site for its wealth of information and members willingness to contribute!!!
Cheers:)
 
I use thinners, preferably the same brand as the paint if possible.

Have an FSM tutorial on this, drop us your address in a PM and I'll post you a copy.
 
I guess what I'm saying is that I've seen alot of tutorials on acrylics but none on enamel washing techniques. Could someone please help me with some information or point me n the direction of some!

The technique for enamels is exactly the same like for these acrylic paints. The difference is that it is better to use a wash made of water acrylic paints or oily paints used by painters. Pastel chalks, dusty graphit from pencils and thin silver markers are the same in use with enamels.
 
Last edited:
The technique for enamels is exactly the same like for these acrylic paints. The difference is that it is better to use a wash made of water acrylic paints or oily paints used by painters. Pastel chalks, dusty graphit from pencils and thin silver markers are the same in use with enamels.

Exactly what Wurger said, if you use Enamel and you don't get it just right, you'll have to practicly strip the wing to thin the thing :D
 
Last edited by a moderator:
A couple of things to watch for: make sure your clear gloss is completely cured or you'll get trouble (see my 109E-3 build thread). Also, it's best to use semigloss or gloss colors to wash with - Model Master raw umber makes a fine wash - because flat or matte paints have pigments that can explode and become grainy when thinned too much, which is what you do when you make a wash, basically. Nothing looks stranger than a wash that has shattered. Except a post from a guy reviving a prehistoric thread.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back