Question on Masking

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16
15
Jul 6, 2025
Maple Valley, WA
I've been using plain old painters' tape to mask my canopies and details and for the most part it works out. However, my recent F-51D Mustang came out a little wonky and I'm wondering if there's a better product that paint can't slip under like that.
Another issue with painters' tape is cutting it to fit on each panel and pane, especially on little (1/72 or smaller) aircraft, because of how it's not usually a straight clean cut like some other tapes.

 
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Painters tape is a bit course for kits I'd suggest. The smaller the scale the more difficult it will be to secure the edges. Tamiya tape is not a thick as painters tape and easier to get a smooth snug fit. You can also get something like the Eduard pre cut mask sets which are designed for a specific kit.

Just some suggestions.
 
thank you for the recommendations - I've been seeing the Eduard ones on scalemates so I'll probably get those.
 

The first rule is to paint all the colours before you apply the decal markings. Actually no matter what kind of the masking tape you use. It may be either the ordianry tape for painters or the Tamiya one. And the sliping under it can happen. All depends on a tool you apply the paint with I mean if it is done with a brush or airbrush. If the tool is the brush it should be done with a couple of thin layers or ( if the paint cover fine ) with a thicker one. However in both cases you should apply it in the way that depends on the edge of the masking tape and the brush moving. See the two diagrams below. In the first one ( the diagram A) if the brush is moving from the top to the bottom the most of a paint ( its excess ) gathers at the top edge ( let's say the to top of a "step" ) what results in going of the paint under the masking tape if it is not stuck enough good to the surface. So the brush moving has to be reversed and being from the bottom to the top ( the diagram a ). When you apply the paint on the wings and stabilizers ( and also on the fin and rudder ) the brush moving should be from the center of the painted sufrace to the edges ( endings ). The diagram B and C.

the diagram A ...


the diagram B ...


the diagram C ...


I hope it can help a little bit.
 
Thank you for the information.
 
A Master revealing hidden arts.
 
Tamiya tape has some give and flexibility to get around curves, but the best way to mask things like canopies is to burnish the tape down into the crease of the frame with a rounded edge tool so it doesn't cut through the tape. Then, with a brand-new, sharp #11 blade gently follow the crease around to cut through the tape. I used "gently" deliberately so you don't score the canopy. Tamiya also makes a tape for curves. It's a 3mm white vinyl that does bend around curves without buckling. I have this tape, but don't use it much. I'm more inclined to trim the tape as I noted above.

I very reccently received a new digital vinyl cutter and I'm anxious to see how well it can make custom masks from CAD drawings.
 

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