RCAF Starfighter, 1/48th scale - Part Two

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Airframes

Benevolens Magister
63,026
12,575
Aug 24, 2008
Cheshire, UK
From RCAF to RDAF.

After integration into Canadian Armed Forces, the aircraft had a change of serial number, to 104771 and, eventually, was re-painted in the overall green colour scheme. Struck off charge on 23rd November 1971, it was in storage at Prestwick, Scotland, until being transferred to the Royal Danish Air Force, as R-771, on 24th November, 1973, and originally finished in the light grey colour scheme, as seen in the first pic.
This scheme eventually gave way to an overall matt green finish, which was very prone to weathering, and was eventually changed to a gloss version, FS 14079, the same shade, and the same as the USAF 'Forest Green' as used on aircraft in Viet Nam.
After a number of years service, 'R-771' was eventually used as an airfield decoy, still in the green scheme, before being transferred to Aalborg air base, in North Jutland, and eventually re-painted in the original grey colour scheme, and placed on a pole as a 'Gate Guard'.

I'll be painting the model in the matt green finish, with light weathering, to simulate it's early service when finished in this colour scheme.
As shown in the previous thread, the kit being used is the old ESCI kit of the F-104C (PIC 2), which needs to be converted to resemble the CF-104/F-104G, which had about 25% more fin area.
First job was to remove the raised surface detail, and re-scribe, before tackling the conversion on the tail, and the work to date is shown in the pics below.

PIC 1. Fuselage sanded after removing raised detail, and awaiting polishing.
PIC 2. Panel engraving underway, using 'Dymo' label tape as a guide, and a sharpened compass point in a pin vice.
PIC 3. The scale drawing shows the difference in the shape of the tail.
PICS 4 and 5. The F-104C rudder and rear fin area were removed, ready to 'inplant' a new section made from plastic card, and the rear fuselage halves joined.
PICS 6 and 7. Using a paper template traced from the scale plan, the shape of the new fin and rudder sections were scribed onto plastic sheet, before being cut out, the rudder hinge line engraved, and the edges lightly sanded.
PIC 8. The new sections cemented in place. Once fully set, the trailing edges will be filed and sanded to shape, and the joint with the kit parts filled and blended as required.
The top of the fin will need to be raised slightly, and this will be done once the 'stabilator' has been fitted.
That's it for now, but more soon, once the 'original' 771 has had some more work done to it.
 

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Thanks very much Chaps.
Jim, I was going to answer "A camera", but to be serious (what, me?!), I used my little Fuji 'bridge camera', which I've had for about six years now. It's easier, more convenient and more consistent in artificial light than using one of my DSLRs, and a great, very versatile little camera.
 

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I'm still waiting for some resin bits for the RCAF F-104, so a bit more has been done to the Danish version.

PIC 1. The tip of the rear fuselage has been cut off, and filed smooth, in order to fit a fillet.
PIC 2. A fillet was made from 20 thou plastic card, with a notch cut to match a slot cut and filed into the fuselage.
PIC 3. The plastic fillet was then superglued into the slot and, once fully set, will be trimmed to the final required shape, and the sides built-up with 'Milliput' to continue the curve of the kit shape, where the fillet curves up to the vertical fairing immediately beneath the rudder.
Once this has been satisfactorily completed, the 'stabilator' will be fitted, and an attempt made to raise the height of the top of the fin by about 2mm. If this fails, then it'll be left a per the kit, and hopefully won't be too noticeable.
Thanks for your interest to date, and I'll post more soon, once I've done more to the RCAF version - this could get confusing !
 

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Thanks Andy, Cory and George. Still waiting for some bits for the RCAF bird - thinking they might have got lost - so I might start on the 'Milliput' fillet on the tail.
 
I've been informed that the 'lost' parts will be dispatched to me tomorrow. These are the oxygen hoses, in various sizes, which I wanted to try out, the first being the hose up the side of the seat on the RCAF bird.
They're coming from MDC, who had to make a new mould to fulfill my order, hence the delay, so they should be nice and crisp - I hope.
So, whilst waiting, I've made a start on blending in the fillet on the rear of the Danish bird, using 'Milliput'.
The pic shows the first stage, on one side only. This has to set before repeating the process on the opposite side, to avoid distorting the putty.
Once both sides are done, gentle sanding should obtain the required profile.
I'll post another up-date on both versions of '771' just as soon as there's something worthwhile to show.
 

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Thanks very much, Andy and Glenn.
I've been using 'Milliput' for at least 35 years, and have successfully made, for example, extended engine cowlings to make a MkV Spitfire into a Mk IX and Mosquito MkIV into a PR IX, both in 1/32nd scale, and also a Mosquito B.MkXVI from a FB.VI in 1/48th, as well as numerous other conversions and general filling jobs.
There are various types, with the 'Standard' being the 'Grey -Yellow' type, which I use, as well as 'Fine White' (designed for use with porcelain), 'Black' (for plumbing use), 'Silver-Grey', and 'Terracotta', for use with clay pottery.
Some prefer the fine white or the silver-grey, both of which are a slightly higher price than the standard, but I find that, for modelling use, the 'Standard' is by far the best, as it doesn't crumble as easily as some of the others, it's easier to see when the 'mix' of the two parts is right, and it works beautifully when wet, allowing a very smooth finish to be attained , which in some cases doesn't even need sanding.
It sets rock-hard within a few hours, obviously depending on thickness, and can be fully set within an hour or two if smaller areas are treated. When in use, it can be moulded to shape with a wet finger, knife blade or similar 'flat' tool, and when set can be drilled, tapped, sanded, carved etc etc.
Apart from use as a filler or moulding onto existing parts as described above, it's very useful for making small parts, such as seat cushions, parachute packs and so on.
 

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