State of that!

[36feet10inches]

Have you ever seen a scruffier canopy? I just don't seem to be able to get it right. I think some spray primer even managed to get around the masking tape somehow. Anyone got any tips to help me mask aerial greenhouses and not end up with a complete dog's dinner? (Enamel paints).

PS I don't think direct sunlight is very forgiving, to be fair...

 

[Crimea_River]

It looks to me like styrene dust, possibly filing residue has collected behind the glass. Before attaching the canopy make sure you blow all dust out of the interior of the fuselage. Make sure all openings to the interior that are in the path of the spray are closed.

When masking, be sure to seal the edges by running a toothpick along the edges.

When painting, use THIN coats and no more than are needed to get the frames opaque. The more paint you apply over the mask edge, the more you run the risk of pulling chunks of paint away. Use low pressure if airbrushing. 15 to 20psi.

 

[rochie]

Still better than most of mine !

 

[Capt. Vick]

Use a can of spray air and spray into any fuselage hole might work if it is styrene dust?

 

[36feet10inches]

It looks to me like styrene dust, possibly filing residue has collected behind the glass. Before attaching the canopy make sure you blow all dust out of the interior of the fuselage. Make sure all openings to the interior that are in the path of the spray are closed.

When masking, be sure to seal the edges by running a toothpick along the edges.

When painting, use THIN coats and no more than are needed to get the frames opaque. The more paint you apply over the mask edge, the more you run the risk of pulling chunks of paint away. Use low pressure if airbrushing. 15 to 20psi.

Thanks for that. I think my main issue is that I schlonk paint on like there's no tomorrow. There's a layer of primer and at least five coats of paint and spray varnish on there. Also I had a slight fit issue with the (already masked) canopy that I made worse trying to file it right, there's a load filler at the front end, a bit of which was probably on top of the mask and got pulled off when I removed the mask. No excuse for the scratches everywhere from removing tape with the tip of a very sharp knife! It looks like a horror story in bright light and blown up, but it's only a 1/72 and will probably look OK in the gloomy part of the house where my models end up.

 

[36feet10inches]

Use a can of spray air and spray into any fuselage hole might work if it is styrene dust?

Thanks, that might be worth a shot.

 

[Crimea_River]

It's not too bad really, considering the scale, but yes, less paint will improve things.

 

[36feet10inches]

Use a can of spray air and spray into any fuselage hole might work if it is styrene dust?

Ha, the prop isn't on yet so I just blew really hard into the hole at the nose and that shifted it, looks a lot better for it

 

[TheRealMrEd]

For that cockpit, I would have masked with small pieces of kubuki (or Tamiya) tape, either made up from small pieces or with each piece cut to size. I also usually dip the whole canopy into Future or Pledge before mounting it, let dry, then I glue the canopy into place with tiny drops of CA glue, or watch cement, or even white glue, depending upon which one I think will work best for each case. Then, add the rest of the glue along the canopy edge until the whole thing is completely sealed, fairing it in as best possible.

One of the reasons for dipping the canopy into Pledge, etc. is that if "smutz' like you have occures on the inside, I can just drill a small hole (usually through the top of nose gear well from underneath, and inject a little Windex with AMMONIA (the ammonia being key here), which will then dissolve the interior layer of the Pledge ans allow me to slush the Windex around the inside of the cockpit, flushing out the crud, and allowing it to settle into an inconspicuous spot down around the seat. If the Windex take too long to dry out, shoot a little drug store alcohol into the cockpit, which will dry it out quicker. The disclaimer is -- do this with enamels; I'm not sure what would happen with acrylics, etc...

Then, I would use Parafilm "M" and mask the entire canopy, leaving just the attaching edge (no more than 1 - 1.5mm clear. Then I'd fill with Perfect Plastic Putty, if it was a good join line. The PPP will smooth out with a wet Q-tip, and you might get away with no sanding at all!

If the edge needs REAL filling, I'd use Bondo Spot Putty and Sealer, and sand lightly with a fine rat-tail file or 600 - 800 grit paper, sanding wet. A light coat of primer here if needed JUST AROUND THE EDGE!

Then, I would unmask the entire canopy, and add the necessary masks. I would do the canopy area first, and only spray the interior color first, followed by the outside color(s). After that, I would re-mask the whole canopy with Parafilm "M", along the lower edge of the glass parts, and spray the rest of the model as needed.

You see this technique on my XP-58 Chain Lightning Build

along with step-by-step photos. Last word of advice -- while all this may seem like a lot or work, it's eventually worth the effort to learn how. All it takes is practice!

Good luck,

Ed

 

[36feet10inches]

For that cockpit, I would have masked with small pieces of kubuki (or Tamiya) tape, either made up from small pieces or with each piece cut to size. I also usually dip the whole canopy into Future or Pledge before mounting it, let dry, then I glue the canopy into place with tiny drops of CA glue, or watch cement, or even white glue, depending upon which one I think will work best for each case. Then, add the rest of the glue along the canopy edge until the whole thing is completely sealed, fairing it in as best possible.

One of the reasons for dipping the canopy into Pledge, etc. is that if "smutz' like you have occures on the inside, I can just drill a small hole (usually through the top of nose gear well from underneath, and inject a little Windex with AMMONIA (the ammonia being key here), which will then dissolve the interior layer of the Pledge ans allow me to slush the Windex around the inside of the cockpit, flushing out the crud, and allowing it to settle into an inconspicuous spot down around the seat. If the Windex take too long to dry out, shoot a little drug store alcohol into the cockpit, which will dry it out quicker. The disclaimer is -- do this with enamels; I'm not sure what would happen with acrylics, etc...

Then, I would use Parafilm "M" and mask the entire canopy, leaving just the attaching edge (no more than 1 - 1.5mm clear. Then I'd fill with Perfect Plastic Putty, if it was a good join line. The PPP will smooth out with a wet Q-tip, and you might get away with no sanding at all!

If the edge needs REAL filling, I'd use Bondo Spot Putty and Sealer, and sand lightly with a fine rat-tail file or 600 - 800 grit paper, sanding wet. A light coat of primer here if needed JUST AROUND THE EDGE!

Then, I would unmask the entire canopy, and add the necessary masks. I would do the canopy area first, and only spray the interior color first, followed by the outside color(s). After that, I would re-mask the whole canopy with Parafilm "M", along the lower edge of the glass parts, and spray the rest of the model as needed.

View attachment 582371
You see this technique on my XP-58 Chain Lightning Build

along with step-by-step photos. Last word of advice -- while all this may seem like a lot or work, it's eventually worth the effort to learn how. All it takes is practice!

Good luck,

Ed

Thank you Ed. This is Jedi master stuff

 

[TheRealMrEd]

Thank you Sarge...

In reality, this is just on my belly for miles over the obstacle course that is modeling...

Ed