**** DONE: GB-59 1/48 Ki-61-Id Hein - WW2 PTO V

[Ralph Haus]

Fantastic NMF Ralph

Thank you both. I'm pleased with it. Being a Vallejo fan I thought I'd try out one of their metal line ,77.724-silver. Looks good to my naked eye and even with zoom inspection, well to some degree.

 

[Vic Balshaw]

Have to agree with the Canadians, great finish.

 

[fubar57]

I bought two sets. Lots of variation with eight bottles and then mixing the eight together

 

[Ralph Haus]

I bought two sets. Lots of variation with eight bottles and then mixing the eight together

View attachment 745569​

I use the dull, semi-mat and light alum a lot when detailing bits. Didn't dawn on me to mix them up. Now that opens up a lot of shade potentials.

 

[Ralph Haus]

Getting there. All colors on. Just have to figure out how to hold this while doing a complete Future coat (first time doing Future for a decal coat!), hoping it will enhance the clear fuselage portion. Probab;y ought to dab the small areas with color first though, wing lights and step pad areas?

 

[Wurger]

 

[SaparotRob]

That is coming along nicely. It's really looking to be a scene stealer.

 

[Crimea_River]

Hey Ralph, how durable is that NMF? I've been using Alclad lacquers which are great but cleanup needs lacquer thinners which I'm not liking. I may switch to those Valejos if the finish is durable.

With NMF finishes I've not found it necessary to apply Futura for decals as the paint finish is usually smooth enough to prevent silvering.

 

[fubar57]

Hey Ralph, how durable is that NMF? I've been using Alclad lacquers which are great but cleanup needs lacquer thinners which I'm not liking. I may switch to those Valejos if the finish is durable.

With NMF finishes I've not found it necessary to apply Futura for decals as the paint finish is usually smooth enough to prevent silvering.

Andy, I can't speak for Ralph but all my NMF from 2019 on have been with Vallejo and yes they aren't for the faint hearted. However, I think all the nay-sayers are those who rushed things. It is easier to remove paint with a finger nail but with care, no finger nails need to be involved. Many try to mask too soon. I give it a minimum 24 hours before masking and I detack the tape a bit more than normal and shoot a mist away from the edges. Tape is remove a bit slower than normal and rarely do I get bleed under or paint lift; no more than any other acrylic paint I use. I think I have undercoated once or twice and shoot on bare plastic. Again, I agree it is finicky but with care it works for me. It is definitely not the same as Alclad or other non acrylic metals. I would like to try AK Metals if I can find cheap shipping but for now Imma sticking with Vallejo

 

[Crimea_River]

Thanks Geo, very informat7ve. I have a couple of AK paints and they are very smelly but otherwise good.

 

[Vic Balshaw]

I use AK Xtreme Metal George, they have a good range of colours which come in handy when I make these detailed motor bike or car engines, they are a good paint that sits well but they do leave a strong smell and need good ventilation (that is why I spray in the garage with the door up) and they also need there own thinners to clean up with, others will just turn the paint lumpy.

 

[Ralph Haus]

Hey Ralph, how durable is that NMF? I've been using Alclad lacquers which are great but cleanup needs lacquer thinners which I'm not liking. I may switch to those Valejos if the finish is durable.

With NMF finishes I've not found it necessary to apply Futura for decals as the paint finish is usually smooth enough to prevent silvering.

Andy - Not sure I can qualify to answer the durability question, this being my 2nd NMF finish, and the first major spraying of the Vallejo metals. I usually apply the metals to small bits with a brush. However for this application I handle it as I would any of my finish applications, and that is not to gently. I bare hand grab the build to work on it. Although, with this finish being as shiny as it is, I do use a paper towel if holding for a long period.

My latest previous photo post may illustrate that there were no issues with removing masked area tape - tape lift. I did, first, apply a coat of Vallejo grey primer, letting dry a day. Also, I only use Tamiya masking tape, not pressing my luck with the Washi variety. The only issue I had was in the small areas where I was not so careful with the overlapping of the Tamiya colors (in this case the red) where I masked the tail area. Probably an issue with the 'texture' of the red and not an interaction between the paints. I should assume that this paint is going on much thinner and smoother and will show blemishes easier. The Tamiya leading edge 'yellow' seemed to go on well and is holding to the touch. I did let the Vallejo metal dry a day before touching.

As for the clear coat. I need to coat the red tail, as it is the Tamiya XF-7 and very flat. I am anticipating that a coat of Future may also help to 'shine up' the clear areas of the port fuselage? Kind of like it does for the canopies. I suspect the Future wont be an issue when sprayed on the NMF? I have my paint mule ready with the same coat as a test.

But a huge reason for using this, and other Vallejo paints, is the water clean up. Nothing else required. Also, no thinning....spray as it dispenses from the bottle.

 

[Ralph Haus]

Well, one thing I'll never do again...use Future for predecal coating. What a mess. Not sure, in my case, who didn't want to play nice; Tamiya MARK FIT strong (color under the decal turned off color, reddish?) or the Tamiya decals themselves; the carrier layer is obvious on this NMF coating whereas it probably wouldn't have been on any color. Could have been a combo? It is not really that obvious from the posted photos, only zooming will show. The MARK FIT also seemed to want to attack it (the Future} on its own. Had to do some brush touching-up, ugly. I hope the semi clear coat will help to resolve most of these issues? If not I will be into some serious weathering....

 

[SaparotRob]

The result is spectacular.

 

[Wurger]

 

[Snautzer01]

Looking good.

 

[Vic Balshaw]

As you say Ralph, the pics look great.

 

[Ralph Haus]

Trying to protect the clarity of the acrylic panel from the semi-gloss final coat, I masked over it, and in doing so discovered a great decal remover, Tamiya tape. Peeled off most of the blue band, leaving just enough to take an hour to remove manually. Given the uniqueness of this build (clear port side) I don't think the band will be missed. Besides, in hindsight, it did obscure a lot of the internal details; the propose of having the clear side! Oh! and yes, I did break off the pitot tube while doing so!

Finished shots coming, as soon as I get the photo equipment out; after returning from a daughters Birthday luncheon today.

 

[Wurger]

 

[SaparotRob]

A spectacular build.