**** DONE: GB-60 1/72 Junkers F.13 - Zombie Build

[Wayne Little]

You need some coloured pencils suitably sharpened...for the extra detail.

Nice Prop as is though.

 

[T Bolt]

Nice!

 

[Ralph Haus]

Cabin-Cockpit-Engine room. Not much but all here. Wife wanted to know who the original interior decorators were; also implying that I most likely am related to them somehow!

Got to wonder about the 'size' of the prop maker decals. Look a bit large to me? Delaying applying gloss varnish just in case!

 

[fubar57]

Curtains are a nice touch

 

[Wurger]

 

[Ralph Haus]

Just did a bit of dry fitting. Glad I did. Instructions are not very clear on locating the 'pit' to the fuselage nor what angles the inner walls need to be. Just slapping it together would have resulted in a wing fit problem as well as a fuselage top portion fitting problem. Need three hands to align these pieces!!!

 

[Crimea_River]

Let us know when you need 5 hands.

Not finding any period pics of those triangular prop labels. Many pics with no labels on the prop though. Just Google your plane - lots there.

 

[Ralph Haus]

Let us know when you need 5 hands.

Not finding any period pics of those triangular prop labels. Many pics with no labels on the prop though. Just Google your plane - lots there.

Good idea. The prop actually looked great sans advertisement!

 

[Vic Balshaw]

Nice little cabin Ralph. Not a lot of leg room in those bucket seats though.

 

[rochie]

looks great to me

 

[Ralph Haus]

Nice little cabin Ralph. Not a lot of leg room in those bucket seats though.

Economy class. You want leg room? There is an upgrade to the lounge chair. Extra marks though!

 

[Ralph Haus]

Colors on. 'aliasing' an obvious issue due to the grooved molded surfaces. Will have to figure a way to resolve on final photos? Anyway, turned out better than I had anticipated. Decided to paint the red decal area instead of fighting with those supplied. The kit does give this option, providing the individual crosses to be placed on top of the painted areas.
Now to get the decals to 'lay down'!

 

[SaparotRob]

That's going to be one eye popping build!

 

[Wurger]

 

[Crimea_River]

Looks good. Hope he decaling doesn't come to grief.

 

[Wayne Little]

That looks pretty good, hope them decals play the game...

 

[Ralph Haus]

I did purchase a new (to me) decal softener, Mr. Mark Softer. Not sure about the warning on the cap though - it 'may' dissolve paint film!!! I will be applying a Tamiya clear gloss before applying decals, on the model and the paint mule (which will get the fist un-needed decals). Of course the Tamiya Mark Fit will be my backup, but it does not seem to attack Revell decals very well?

 

[Wurger]

Usually the Revell decals are quite thick and that's the problem. Generally, the Mr. Mark Softer should be applied over the decal marking but also it may be applied under decals. The way of applying just depends on the decals and the curvature of the surface the markings are going to be stuck to. If you have the Mr. Mark Softer Neo that is the improved version of the old Mr. Mark Softer liquid, you may be not content of the final effect although the new one should'n be that aggressive towards the surface.

 

[Crimea_River]

The issue with the corrugations is that whatever decal solution id used, it will need to stretch the decal so much over the high points that they may crack so it all depends on how pliable the decals are. Prepare yourself for possible touch-up painting where the underlying paint show through.

 

[Ralph Haus]

The issue with the corrugations is that whatever decal solution id used, it will need to stretch the decal so much over the high points that they may crack so it all depends on how pliable the decals are. Prepare yourself for possible touch-up painting where the underlying paint show through.

Then the thick Revell decal material may be an advantage?? We'll see; after the gloss coat has some time to cure.