Modelling Tools and Equipment.

[T Bolt]

Most of the time I use Testors clear parts glue, I beleave its a PVA glue but is somewhat rubbery when dry.
When I need a canopy to really hold on good, or I need to blend the canopy frame into the fuselage I use tube glue or CA. I prevent fogging by dipping the canopy into Future beforehand and then scrape it off the mating surface before glueing. I have never had a canopy fog on me using this method.

 

[Airframes]

Bill, I use a variety of adhesives on canopies, depending on whether it will be permanently fitted before, or after, painting the model.

If fitted after painting the model, then I normally use PVA, obtained in a 500 ml bottle from the local stationery store for around £1 (about 1/6th of the price of a comparable size "modelling" product, which is the same stuff !).
This can then be reinforced, if the joint allows, with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, by running the tip of the brush carefully along the joint, once the part has set. The joint is then sealed and blended - in using a thin bead of PVA, applied using the tip of a cocktail stick, and any excess wiped off with a wet finger tip, or the cocktail stick tip, again wet. If required, this seal can then be painted to match the surroundings.

If fitted before painting the model, for example where a windscreen needs to be fitted and the cockpit masked for spraying, then a combination of adhesives are used, as explained in the text for the pic below..

Spitfire !/32nd scale windscreen, canopy and rear glazing.

In this instance, due to the nature of the cockpit opening, it was 'safer' to fit the windscreen and rear glazing before spraying the model, and use the canopy, which would be displayed open on the finished model, as a mask, along with the cockpit door.
The door was temporarily fitted, being attached with PVA, allowing it to be easily removed later, and the clear parts masked using Tamiya masking tape.

The windscreen was fitted in the following sequence:-
1.) A thin bead of Revell Contacta Professional cement was applied along the front lip of the cockpit, using the nozzle on the cement bottle, and then carefully spread, thinly, along the lip, using a cocktail stick (Thick red arrow). A small spot of the same cement was carefully applied at the edge of the side lip, where it meets the cockpit door (thin red arrow), both of these areas being chosen as they were fairly large, and less chance of cement getting onto the clear parts that are masked.
2.) A bead of PVA was then applied around the remaining area of the windscreen sill (thick black arrow), and the windscreen fitted in place and lightly pressed down, adjusting as required. Once set, the joints were sealed with a thin bead of PVA (thin black arrow).
3.) The rear glazing was then fitted in the same manner, with the blue arrow indicating where Tamiya Extra Thin cement was carefully brushed into the joint, which was again sealed with a bead of PVA once set.
4.) The edges of the windscreen frame, and the tops of the door and fuselage sills, then had PVA applied, again using a cocktail stick, and the canopy was set in place, and adjusted to ensure the front and lower joints were correct. Once set, the front and rear joints were sealed with a thin bead of PVA (thin black arrow) in order to prevent any paint mist entering the cockpit when spraying.
Once the model has been painted and clear coated, the canopy and door can easily be removed, and the dried PVA carefully peeled off.

This method was used in order to provide more strength to the joint to fuselage for the windscreen and rear glazing, thereby preventing the parts coming loose when the paint-covered masks are removed after painting.

Hope his helps.

 

[N4521U]

Helps Very much...........
I just gotta be a little more thoughtful in doing all this.
It's the Last worst part of building.

Thanks

 

[Airframes]

You're welcome Bill.

 

[N4521U]

Something I made for my bench.
We always have trouble controlling sandpaper in the flat for general sanding.
Went to the local plastic shop. They always have offcuts of various shapes.
This just happened to be clear.
Used a rattle can of contact cement on a 10mm (3/8") piece of acrylic and stuck two grades of sandpaper to one side.
Easy peasy...... no more probs!

 

[rochie]

great idea Bill

 

[Wurger]

 

[fastmongrel]

I couldn't find a pair of tweezers before. Do you think I need to buy some. I am sure I have others as well

 

[fubar57]

It would be nice to find some more that had the serrated teeth as shown in your bendy tweezers

 

[fastmongrel]

It would be nice to find some more that had the serrated teeth as shown in your bendy tweezers

The bendy tweezers are Swiss made and were acquired 40 plus years ago from my brother who used them for his stamp collection. Luckily he gave up collecting not long after and never noticed they were missing.

Some of them only get used for certain things the black plastic ones are used for handling transfers/decals.

The locking pair fourth from bottom were a show purchase that looked like a brilliant idea but proved to be as much use as a chocolate teapot.

 

[Harold1071]

Impressive collections. I have just started getting this and that. I wasn't really planning on building anything, but I really want to add to my IJN & IJA collection. The only way to do it is to build them myself.Wish me luck!

 

[fubar57]

Good luck

 

[RW Mk. III]

Well it came in the mail. The final piece of the puzzle. The fan (the home-cannabis growing culture has made these very affordable it turns out). I just installed it tonight to finish this contraption.
This whole thing represents less than 100 Canadian dollars, some material I had lying around the garage, and about 2 hours work including coring through the foundation.
Tools used:
-SDS Max with 4" coring bit
-Makita Cordless Skillsaw (with sliding fence for the dados)
-an impact driver
-a few hand tools

I carefully checked the specs of the fan and loss tables for venting and designed the diffuser box, this setup -should- be moving extremely close to the fan's designed 190cfm. I cut squares of various materials to find the heaviest that the suction would hold to one of the individual holes in the diffuser (it was heavy duty blue mechanics paper towel). The suction holds it in place on the hole closest to the inlet at the top left, and holds it the same on the furthest hole at the bottom right. And the same throughout. So the diffuser is working as intended. I sprayed all kinds of smelly stuff as a test and the old Mk1 nose indicates everything is going straight out the pipe. Much better than anticipated actually.

These things cost over a grand over the counter... My question is what have I missed? I've been airbrushing for about 8 years but very much on and off as I get time and space to. Never had a booth of any kind. And I sort of just designed this from first principles without really analyzing the over the counter ones. What's the improvements you would do?

 

[Crimea_River]

Well done that. I've been thinking of doing something similar but have never pulled the trigger. I do have a dust collector in my workshop and have, at times, used that when I'm spraying something smelly but most times I use low-odour acrylics anyway.

 

[fubar57]

Beauty. I've go a paper sampler dryer from the paper mill I used to work at and is very effective and overkill. The exhaust could inflate the Hindenburg in about 40 seconds. It has an opening of about 2' x 2'. The one thing I lack at the moment is proper sufficient lighting. One thing I notice with the lighting I do have is that some paint swirls around inside the box before it gets extracted so you might want to add a bit of side extensions. I'll take a pic of my setup and post it when I get home Wednesday

 

[T Bolt]

I always thought an old stove range hood installed over a plywood box would work nicely. Vented outside, cheep if you have an old range hood available and a built in light to boot. One of their days when we remodel the kitchen I'll snag the old one and see if it works

 

[s1chris]

I always thought an old stove range hood installed over a plywood box would work nicely. Vented outside, cheep if you have an old range hood available and a built in light to boot. One of their days when we remodel the kitchen I'll snag the old one and see if it works

Lacking any dedicated modelling space whatsoever that's exactly where I spray (when cool).
I've got a large cardboard box that I sit on the hob, turn the light and extractor on and spray away.

The Mrs goes mental, which is only feeding the cause to convert the garage going forward.

 

[Airframes]

Yep, convert the garage - spray booth one end, bar at the other end = heaven !!

 

[Crimea_River]

Don't forget the BBQ and Karl making burgers.

 

[Airframes]

Ah, yes, of course `