**** DONE: GB-36 1:48 Me-410B-2/U4 - Axis Manufactured Aircraft of WW2
- Thread starter Jeff Hunt
- Start date
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Crimea_River
Marshal
That cannon barrel may be the next to go.
- Thread starter
- #83
Jeff Hunt
1st Lieutenant
Oh I am very much aware of it. Short of painting, most of the fuselage handling is done so I am hopeful.
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Airframes
Benevolens Magister
It's looking good Jeff.
fubar57
General
You've been busy Jeff. Looking good. Not sure how your main wheels line up with struts but I just noticed that they cant inwards on the real aircraft...
Looking good Jeff.
- Thread starter
- #87
Jeff Hunt
1st Lieutenant
Not sure as I have not got to the wheel attachment point of construction although I am getting close. The wings are nearly done, hope to finish them today and then some photos. After that I will be masking off the rest of the canopy and painting the interior frame then attaching the canopy to the airctaft in preparation of paint.
Cheers,
Jeff
- Thread starter
- #88
Jeff Hunt
1st Lieutenant
The wings are nearly complete. Just a few small bits that once again will be added closer to finishing. Balance horns, lights, pitot tube etc. Going back to the bench now to wash the wings and the fuselage as it is almost time to give everything a spray RLM 76.
Cheers,
Jeff
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Progressing nicely Jeff.
Crimea_River
Marshal
I agree, and a good point by Geo in advance of you getting to that stage.
parsifal
Colonel
very impressive Jeff
- Thread starter
- #93
Jeff Hunt
1st Lieutenant
Happy with the way these turned out. They are probably the biggest mistake that Meng made with this model. The should by wider and rounded from what I have learned but I cannot justify over $20.00 for proper props and spinners when I know that 100 percent of the people who see this model when done ( not counting you av model geeks) wont know the difference. If it was for a model contest or if I was super anal about that kind of thing but for me, the kit supplied props and spinners will do.
'Cheers,
Jeff
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Nice work! Now that you mention it, the prop blades do look off compared to the pics. I think I'd round off the tips at least.
- Thread starter
- #95
Jeff Hunt
1st Lieutenant
First thing out of the chute this morning was the rounding of the props as suggested by John. I think they look more like they are supposed to now.
Next was a coat of RLM 76 over the fuselage and bottom of the wings.
I have been pondering how I was going to do the mottling on this model. I have a very basic air brush and it doesn't really allow for fine work. Since I started construction I was thinking I would blend finely ground pastels to get them to match RLM 74 and 75 or as close as I could get. I gave it a go and I am pretty happy with the way h turned out.
I gave the nose end a shot of RLM75 just to see how close the match of the pastels is and it looks pretty good from where I am sitting.
That is it for now as I have to head out a get an oil change on the car, I am only 5000 kms above the recommended distance for it.
Hope to get back to the bench later today.
Cheers,
Jeff
Next was a coat of RLM 76 over the fuselage and bottom of the wings.
I have been pondering how I was going to do the mottling on this model. I have a very basic air brush and it doesn't really allow for fine work. Since I started construction I was thinking I would blend finely ground pastels to get them to match RLM 74 and 75 or as close as I could get. I gave it a go and I am pretty happy with the way h turned out.
I gave the nose end a shot of RLM75 just to see how close the match of the pastels is and it looks pretty good from where I am sitting.
That is it for now as I have to head out a get an oil change on the car, I am only 5000 kms above the recommended distance for it.
Hope to get back to the bench later today.
Cheers,
Jeff
- Thread starter
- #96
Jeff Hunt
1st Lieutenant
Shite. Used the wrong colour in the nose. Oh well, I will fix it later. Should have been RLM 75 at the nose not 74. A quick respray this afternoon will take care of the problem.
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Airframes
Benevolens Magister
The props certainly look much better Jeff, and that mottling turned out well.
Before I got a fine-line airbrush, there were two methods I used for mottle.
1). Use a cotton bud, dipped lightly into the paint, and then wiped off, rather like using the 'dry brush' technique. This is then lightly pressed onto the model surface, and twisted, leaving an irregular, soft 'spot'. When all the mottling is done, a very light dry-brush over the top diffuses the effect, giving a passable mottle.
This can be seen on the (brush-painted) 1/48th scale Bf109E below, built around 25+ years ago.
2). With a 'non fine-line' airbrush, create a mask, using copier paper, or better still, tracing paper (this allows at least some 'view' through the paper, allowing better alignment.). Cut irregular holes into the paper, the size of which (the mask) should be small enough to allow it to 'fit' to the desired area - only 4 to 6 holes are required. Hold the mask clear of the surface, and spray through the holes, repeating this along the area to be mottled. Some trial and error is needed, to establish the required distance of the mask from the surface, and the distance of the airbrush from the mask, and practice on a 'hack' model should sort this. Also, thinner paint, and a lower pressure is desirable.
There are, in fact, similar masks commercially available, but whatever the source, one of the problems of this type of mask is actually placing and holding it, although they can often be lightly taped in place, using a card 'spacer' to lift the mask clear of the surface by the required distance.
Before I got a fine-line airbrush, there were two methods I used for mottle.
1). Use a cotton bud, dipped lightly into the paint, and then wiped off, rather like using the 'dry brush' technique. This is then lightly pressed onto the model surface, and twisted, leaving an irregular, soft 'spot'. When all the mottling is done, a very light dry-brush over the top diffuses the effect, giving a passable mottle.
This can be seen on the (brush-painted) 1/48th scale Bf109E below, built around 25+ years ago.
2). With a 'non fine-line' airbrush, create a mask, using copier paper, or better still, tracing paper (this allows at least some 'view' through the paper, allowing better alignment.). Cut irregular holes into the paper, the size of which (the mask) should be small enough to allow it to 'fit' to the desired area - only 4 to 6 holes are required. Hold the mask clear of the surface, and spray through the holes, repeating this along the area to be mottled. Some trial and error is needed, to establish the required distance of the mask from the surface, and the distance of the airbrush from the mask, and practice on a 'hack' model should sort this. Also, thinner paint, and a lower pressure is desirable.
There are, in fact, similar masks commercially available, but whatever the source, one of the problems of this type of mask is actually placing and holding it, although they can often be lightly taped in place, using a card 'spacer' to lift the mask clear of the surface by the required distance.
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- Thread starter
- #99
Jeff Hunt
1st Lieutenant
Hey Terry. Both good ideas. I went with the cotton swab and pastel method. I am quite impressed with how it worked. Toughest part was getting the colours close to the paint shade required.
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
The prob blades look much better and I'm impressed with how well the mottling turned out!
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