Prop Parts at FAAM

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Hi Michael,

Certainly looking that it is a 4-blade H-S CW type hub. Can you tell us any more about that 4-blade type prop or copies?

Cheers

Eng
To the best of my knowledge there was not a production Hamilton Standard 4 bladed counterweight type propeller.

Hamilton Standard did license the build of their design to de Havilland.

The Japanese also had an early license to build copies of counterweight propellers.
 

Thanks Micheal,

I guess the Jury is still out on this.

Cheers

Eng
 
I'm back. Sorry for the delay. I was in Florida for a couple of weeks. I'm having trouble getting caught up.
I asked the two guys working on the prop hub and spider to clean them some more, and look again for some sort of markings or numbers. They did the cleaning, but no markings or numbers have been revealed. They took some more pictures; this time with a measuring tape held near the items. Now you can tell relative, and (approximate) absolute size. They also sent along the information that the 4 nuts on the bolts that hold the halves of the hub together are 1-1/2 inches across the flats. Someone in the thread asked if the spider came out of the hub. We don't know. The spider was not in the hub when we discovered the parts in our "dig room". I guess we can't be certain that the hub & spider are a set, but we have always thought they are.
 

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In my opinion, these parts belong together. In the images below that I copied from above, I have marked the location of what I believe to be grease fittings, and the corresponding holes in the barrel halves. The sizes do sort of match. As I have previously said I do not know of a production propeller from North America that matches this propeller.
 

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Hi Larry,

Good to see progress. Unfortunately I have no good info on this, other than having looked around about it. It strikes me that this is a HS style "Bracket" prop hub, comparing it with the info about the 3-blade type and copy's! However, if HS did not make a 4-blader, could this be a Japanese development?

Cheers

Eng
 
OK, I'm back with some fresh photos of the original 4-blade hub in this string of posts. Our President, Joe C., had come upon the data sheet for the Hamilton-Standard 24D50 used on the P51, and thought we had that prop hub. I didn't think ours looked like the drawing on the 24D50 sheet. It doesn't. Eng had referenced that drawing/prop model back on 5 Jan. This past Saturday I photographed all 6 openings in our prop hub, and one of them is in fact the large "Maltese Cross" shape that was visible in the first photo in my very first post on this topic, back on Nov 14 of 2024. Does the Maltese Cross opening shape tell us anything about the manufacturer or usage of the prop?

The photos of the 6 openings in the hub are attached. The first 2 are of the openings where the drive shaft would go; the other 4 are of the blade attach openings.

Larry
 

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Great photos but I think you need to rename the first photo to Hub engine end.

The cross end indicates a counterweight propeller and the hub is on the cross side. These diagrams are from the dH licence built HS counterweight prop manual. My HS manuals are packed ready to move and I have never had a 4 blade CW prop manual. Hopefully Michael Hope may have something.

Item 11 in the second page is the three blade equivalent of your part with the cross shaped hole



 
Agreed. The "Maltese Cross" cut-away for 4 pitch levers is exactly analogous to the triangular cut-away for the 3 pitch levers of the usual early H-S counterweight type VP prop.
Unfortunately, I have no further info on this but, the possibilities would seem to be, an H-S development or a foreign development maybe Japanese or others.

Cheers

Eng
 
OK, thanks. In the files on my computer I renamed the those 2 pictures; one is now called Hub counterweight end, the other Hub engine end. But I don't see a way to rename a posted photo (or remove one once posted). If someone will tell me how to do that I will rename or exchange the 2 I already posted.

So there is agreement that this prop hub is basically an H-S design, but likely a variant built by a licensee. DeHaviland, and a Japanese company (???) were licensed to build Hamilton-Standard propellers. What attribute would tell us who actually made it? From there, perhaps we could make it to the museum end goal, which is to know what aircraft it was used on. I know that numbers would be a big help. Where on the hub would numbers most likely be placed? Where did H-S put them on the props they built themselves?

Thanks,
Larry
 

Hi Larry,

Looking at the photo's, I think you will be lucky if the usual 0.5mm deep stamped numbers and data have survived. You might get lucky, but it will be difficult.
TBH, I think you need some specialist help with someone who has really detailed info about this specific item, ie, a four-blade H-S counterweight type propeller.


Eng
 
It is too many years to be certain but my memory is there are numbers stamped on the rear face of the spider but I cannot remember where on the hubs halves.

I would suggest Michael Hope is the best source for this information as he can almost certainly provide you with photographs of where these markings are on HS (and probably dH) hubs and spiders.

Once you have a working area I would suggest MINOR cleaning with something like hand held scotchbrite and if that shows nothing then I would suggest you talk to your local police. They have the means to find serial numbers that have been ground off guns, engines, etc, and might accept the challenge when next doing training.

Ham Std are still around and maybe you could send their Customer Service people the photos and ask if they ever made 4 blade CW props and if not do they know of any other manufacture that did.
 

I suspect that there is still mileage in forensic cleaning and inspection of this hub, which is an unusual part. I suspect that professional technical examination of the large nuts and bolts' threadform and the accurate internal dimensions may give clues as to the place of manufacture. Threadform is particularly detailed subject but, you would need to go to a really specialist aero-engineering establishment to get the required level of knowledge.

Eng
 
Actually, in the unlikely event you have a section of good thread you can access (and from the photos that appears unlikely), you can quite easily determine the threads by measuring the outside diameter in both imperial and metric and seeing what outside diameters they are closest to and then use a pitch gauge to determine the number of TPI or mm pitch.


There are several bolt hexes on the spinner front mount side that look pretty clean and you could measure across the flats there but some sizes are too close to help - eg 14mm and 9/16 or 19mm and 3/4". It is interesting that the through bolts have provision for spinner front and back plates and it appears a spinner was fitted originally as there is no reason otherwise for one to have such step bolts or a fitted nut. Metric bolt spanner sizes vary, because certain countries like Australia ignore the ISO standard, and in ww2 differed between countries in spanner size and possibly in pitch. That means if Russia used one spanner for a given bolt size and Japan or Germany used another that could narrow down your search.

If you could tease that spinner nut off you would be able to try and fit it on various US and Metric threads and that would certainly narrow down the country of origin. The BSF bolts are pretty hard to find these days but if not metric or US then that sort of suggests BSF.

This may sound stupid but if you do try to tease the nut off, before using WD or Zep or whatever, soak the complete item overnight in water. If that does not work let it dry for a week then use your chemical penetrant.

 
Thread will likely be pristine under some of those large nuts. Heat/cold/heat is the best way to remove after careful cleaning and penetrant soak.
Thread gauges are a simple tool. However, specialist engineering would use scientific methods for threadform identity.

Eng
 
Or a nut buster. Sacrifice the nut to see the threads.
I doubt that these will need such extreme automotive type methods. I have stripped many engines and prop parts upto 85 odd years old in the ground and often, larger bolt threads survive well after disassembly. However, each relic has its own condition. Sometimes, complete bolts will have disappeared, it all depends on the materials and the type of environment the parts have been in. Although the steel hub is quite corroded in this case, some of the bolts look fair and I would expect some good threads survive in there.

Eng
 
Or a nut buster. Sacrifice the nut to see the threads.

Not what I would recommend at all. The aim is to preserve wherever possible.

60 years back I would have said use sandblasting but that destroys the surface. Some people use 1 part molasses and 10 parts water to dissolve rust but that destroys (as in creates craters in) case hardening.

I doubt anyone in your area has an ultrasonic tank big enough to take those parts and that only removes "loose" particles anyway.

As E Engineman says heat-cold-heat is good if not overdone and it can be done while the part is immersed in oil or ATF which helps the fluid penetrate - any auto trans shop will happily give you buckets full of used ATF. Immersing in ATF for a while is as good as most penetrants in many cases.
 
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We are still hung up over trying to identify the application of the 4-blade prop hub and accompanying "spider". We tried further cleaning of the spider, but couldn't find any numbers. Our museum President, Joe Clegg, took the spider to his home shop and even further cleaned it. Still no numbers. After cleaning, he applied rust converter, and painted it. One of the attached pictures shows an overall view of what it looks like today. The other picture, the close-up, shows that there is one missing spline. Joe wonders if the missing spline would match with the prop shaft for a a certain make/model of aircraft? Besides the cleaning and painting, Joe also determined that the spline diameter is about 4 inches, and the overall tip-to-tip dimension of the spider is 18 inches. The spider weighs 47 lb. Thanks for your help.
 

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