**** DONE: GB-44 1/48 CF-104 441 Sqn Checkerbird - Military A/C of post-war time
- Thread starter fubar57
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Crimea_River
Marshal
Um, is the tank the right one? The long fin should be horizontal and facing inward.
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- #83
fubar57
General
Good shot. I hadn't glued on the longer separate fin for the photo op so here it is all glued up.
I'll let this set up, do some final prep work and then hit it with gloss black. I've only attempted to spray gloss paint once and really wasn't sure when to add additional coats as it always looked wet. This produced some minor runs
nice.
damn it i want a Starfighter now
damn it i want a Starfighter now
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- #85
fubar57
General
Go the extra mile Karl and get a Hasegawa. A bit more pricier but far less headaches
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- #86
fubar57
General
rochie
Right now on eBay, free shipping $39.39CAN/29.96£ Hasegawa #07219 PT19 1/48 F-104C Starfighter USAF | eBay 5 hours left Karl, no pressure
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luckily i am at work and dont have my wallet 
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Looking good Geo.
When spraying gloss paint onto relatively shiny plastic, it's best to have a thin primer coat, especially with black, red and yellow. A light coat of a mid grey colour will do the job, and will also help you to see the paint coverage easier.
It doesn't have to be a perfectly opaque coverage, as long as it's relatively even, to allow the gloss to 'key'.
Always spray gloss paints lightly, keeping the airbrush moving, building the colour in two or more coats, allowing some drying time between coats - it doesn't have to be fully dry, but avoid 'going over' the same area(s) too soon, as that how pooling and runs occur.
When spraying gloss paint onto relatively shiny plastic, it's best to have a thin primer coat, especially with black, red and yellow. A light coat of a mid grey colour will do the job, and will also help you to see the paint coverage easier.
It doesn't have to be a perfectly opaque coverage, as long as it's relatively even, to allow the gloss to 'key'.
Always spray gloss paints lightly, keeping the airbrush moving, building the colour in two or more coats, allowing some drying time between coats - it doesn't have to be fully dry, but avoid 'going over' the same area(s) too soon, as that how pooling and runs occur.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Thanks Geo, makes sense now. I got discombobulated.
Nice work so far George!
- Thread starter
- #93
fubar57
General
Thanks all. I'm going to attach the clear parts before painting. I'm glad I found my scriber/cutter thingee as the attachment points are 4mm wide on one side.
A few passes and I got a nice flush cut requiring minimal clean-up. The scratches were there prior to cutting. Had I noticed I would have dipped it in Future. I've got some very fine sanding paper to take care of this
N4521U
Colonel
I've learned my lessons .......
I too use the Saw now for clear parts!!!!!!
Then sand and buff to polish.
I too use the Saw now for clear parts!!!!!!
Then sand and buff to polish.
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seen one in the UK for £25 delivered !
will see how much cash i have left after silly season ends
need a few other bits first
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Lovely work so far George!
by triplicate the thread? hahahaha ....
what a good solution that cut !!!!!!!!, I always cut a larger piece of the union and then sand it and polish but that would never have occurred to me, thanks for the idea (whoever, yours or of others) !!!
what a good solution that cut !!!!!!!!, I always cut a larger piece of the union and then sand it and polish but that would never have occurred to me, thanks for the idea (whoever, yours or of others) !!!
Done good there George.
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- #100
fubar57
General
Thanks guys. First off to the paint shop, Ole Yeller...
...after the World Juniors.........
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