I Just Noticed That I've Run Out Of Sniffing Material.... (1 Viewer)

[Lucky13]

Well, no glue....cement!
What's the difference between all the Tamiya glues/cements?
Plus, I thought that I'd try one of them there Mr Surfacer primers on cans, besides the usual Vallejo products....what are they like?

 

[SaparotRob]

Great, with a twist of lemon.

 

[cvairwerks]

Limonene is a citrus based glue, and should be very low toxicity. Doesn't always bond well with some plastics. The ABS one should be self explanatory. The bottom three are standard glue makeups. The thin/extra thin describes the viscosity of the glue and the one marked quick setting, is what would be commonly called a "hot" adhesive, in that it cures significantly faster than the regular ones.

 

[Lucky13]

I've only used the "standard" Tamiya cement so far, might try the quick setting this time as well....plus the white one!

Much obliged gentlemen!

 

[GreenKnight121]

ABS is the type of plastic the glue is for... ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) is often used for waste material plumbing, and differs in chemical composition from PVC (polyvinyl chloride), which is used for other water pipes (as are PEX - cross-linked polyethylene and LLDPE - linear low-density polyethylene).

Most plastic models are made of polystyrene, but model glues/cements do differ.

In the 1970s the standard Testors model glue was an adhesive glue that adhered to the surface of the polystyrene to hold the pieces together... as it aged it would yellow and often lose its adhesion - resulting in your model starting to fall apart.

This happened to a number of mine, until I started buying Du Pont's model cement - which was a solvent-based cement that softened the surface of the polystyrene and actually fused the surfaces together into a single piece. This was much stronger than the Testors glue, and ones I glued with the Du Pont cement as far back as 1977 are still firmly glued (and without discoloration of the cement).

The Du Pont cement formula is now sold as Devcon Duco Plastic Model Cement (not to be confused with Duco Cement, which is for polyurethane plastics and other materials - Duco Cement is in a green tube and Duco Model Cement is in a blue tube).

 

[special ed]

Duco cement is a substitute for the old Ambroid and the recently gone Sigment - for all the balsa builders.

 

[CATCH 22]

Well, no glue....cement!
What's the difference between all the Tamiya glues/cements?

I don't know the exact difference (if any) between all that bottles you show. I know the standard and the extra thin cement. In fact this is what you need:

Keep the lime, citron, "limonene" etc. smells for your summer cocktails only.
You can also use Mr.Hobby cements like this one:

Deluxe or not - doesn't matter. They too tend to have dozens of names and bottles - I don't make any difference.
Some hobby stores (mostly general hobby, not only modelling, e.g. Michael's) still sell "Testors Liquid Cement":

Works great for me and is cheaper compared to others.
Cheers!

 

[kah]

I've noticed a push for cyano-acrylics (Super Glues). Anyone use them for modelling? My go-to has always been Du Pont (aka Duco), but I can see the attraction of near-instant set, though I worry they won't hold over time?

 

[pinehilljoe]

Anyone remember "Archer's Hobby World" in California, owned by Bob Archer in the 70's and 80's? He sold a product called Weld On #3 glue. It came in small brown glass bottle, applied with a thin brush, it was light years ahead of a tube of Testor's glue. I'll have to search my basement for an empty bottle

The store is gone, and I miss his glue. It was probably an industrial PS glue he had packaged for his logo. I remember it smelt like real hi-test, it got your motor going

 

[SaparotRob]

I remember Cal Worthington and his dog Spot.

 

[GrauGeist]

I beleive the ABS cement is aimed at the 3D printer crowd, as 3D printers use ABS and PLA plastics (for the most part).

 

[GreenKnight121]

I remember Cal Worthington and his dog Spot.

I was stationed at MCAS El Toro 3/1983-6/1989... I remember Cal well!


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOsLdT4slsk&list=PLTnbwiCw-mMTZam-g8V3oU3NaOYHBaads

 

[SaparotRob]

I was stationed at MCAS El Toro 3/1983-6/1989... I remember Cal well!


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOsLdT4slsk&list=PLTnbwiCw-mMTZam-g8V3oU3NaOYHBaads

I'm going to be humming that danged jingle all day now.

 

[GrauGeist]

I'm going to be humming that danged jingle all day now.

I grew up with it.

"Go see Cal, Go see Cal, Go see Cal"

Worthington Ford (and later Worthington Dodge) was pretty successful. He even had a dealership up in Sacramento, too.

 

[Lucky13]

I'm going to be humming that danged jingle all day now.

It's gotta be better than....


View: https://youtu.be/zb47CstE7R4?feature=shared

 

[GreenKnight121]

It's gotta be better than....


View: https://youtu.be/zb47CstE7R4?feature=shared

I prefer this version:


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nMAbc2jftY

 

[Lucky13]

Is there a particular "formula" for the sprue goo, or is it just whatever suits?

Contemplating putting more sprue in....

 

[fubar57]

I cut a bunch of sprue up, maybe ½" chunks. Filled the bottle about half full and then covered with T.E.T. and let set over night. Next day I stirred it up, but found it was quite stringy so added a bit more T.E.T. until the stringiness disappeared. I've had mine for almost 2 months now and some stringiness has returned but is manageable. This stuff is awesome. I apply it with the tip of a round toothpick , wait 3-4 hours and then sand. Great on those nasty fuselage steps and the gaps I always seem to get on wing leading edges. I'm going to doing some sanding of what I did last night, I'll post a pic here later

 

[fubar57]

Lucky13 Got called away to do a death march with the missus so I didn't get a chance to finish but it does show what I did. The left side was slightly higher than the right so I dragged the goop from right to left trying to avoid getting it on the high side. A bit of work left once I cool down and get back to the first panel. Note that I kept engraving the panel line to avoid losing it. I still haven't found the perfect tool to spread the goop but the pointy round toothpick is good for now. I forgot to mention that a few people recommend using Tamiya sprue only as it seems to work the best but I added Eduard sprue also as you can see from the bilious colour.

 

[destrozas]

I'm in favor of using old-fashioned glues, cementing glue, dissolved in industrial acetone, like the UHU or Revell bottle glue with a nozzle. For something similar to extra thin, the solvent from AK Interactive's Meral Extreme works very well, as does MEK. I also have liquid plastic, leftover plastic from Eduard kits, as fubar57 indicates.