Missing Starboard Trim Tab

Discussion in 'Questions on Kits, Decals, Tools and Pilots' started by prem895, May 7, 2013.

  1. prem895

    prem895 Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2012
    Messages:
    1,144
    Likes Received:
    19
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Occupation:
    To stay under the governments radar
    Location:
    Toronto/Beijing
    I am building a Hase 1/32 f6f-5 and from running up and down the stairs from my assembly area to my paint room I have managed to lose the starboard side trim tab. Does anyone have one or can someone make one for me. My skill level is just not good enough to build one from scratch. Otherwise it came out ok to me. Will post picks of it at my other tread on the 1st Hellcat I built. The 1st one I did in overall deep sea blue. This one I did in the Tri colour scheme. I would totally appreciate any help. I tried to contact Hase,but you know how that turned out...Zero reply. Gary:mad:
     
  2. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
    Staff Member Administrator

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2005
    Messages:
    47,801
    Likes Received:
    1,568
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Occupation:
    A retired military Navigator/ATC, FIS controller
    Location:
    Poland
    #2 Wurger, May 8, 2013
    Last edited: May 8, 2013
    Do you mean a trim tab or an aileron or a flap?
     
  3. prem895

    prem895 Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2012
    Messages:
    1,144
    Likes Received:
    19
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Occupation:
    To stay under the governments radar
    Location:
    Toronto/Beijing
    I think it is a trim tab. The little piece missing on the right wing
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
    Staff Member Administrator

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2005
    Messages:
    47,801
    Likes Received:
    1,568
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Occupation:
    A retired military Navigator/ATC, FIS controller
    Location:
    Poland
    This is the inner flap but not the trim tab. Trim tabs are these small plates at rudders, elevators and ailerons usually. I hope there can be found somebody who can help. However if I were you I would measure the port side flap then reverse its shape and make it from scratch. With the scale I shouldn't be difficult to prefabricate.
     
  5. A4K

    A4K Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2007
    Messages:
    12,162
    Likes Received:
    123
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    The back of beyond
    With Wojtek... I would measure one from card and scratchbuild it.
     
  6. prem895

    prem895 Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2012
    Messages:
    1,144
    Likes Received:
    19
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Occupation:
    To stay under the governments radar
    Location:
    Toronto/Beijing
    Hi Air Marshall, I would like to thank you for your help,but I think I have found the solution to this flap business. I was assembling a bbq at work the other day and I noticed some cardboard packaging that reminded me of the lost part because of the rounded edge on it and I thought this may be the answer. This is what I came up with so far. It looks a bit rough,but I am still working with it. I did a test fit and when it is all painted it will be hard to even notice The flap in the picture is one from one of my other kit.
     

    Attached Files:

    • 001.JPG
      001.JPG
      File size:
      374.3 KB
      Views:
      18
    • 002.JPG
      002.JPG
      File size:
      397.7 KB
      Views:
      18
  7. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
    Staff Member Administrator

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2005
    Messages:
    47,801
    Likes Received:
    1,568
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Occupation:
    A retired military Navigator/ATC, FIS controller
    Location:
    Poland
    I see. Glad you got the problem sorted out. However using of the cardboard isn't too good idea. Especially you have the flap pieces from another kit. I would use some of plasticine and stamp these two parts in that. Then I would spill over the mould with some of epoxy. Whne hardened some of sanding on flat surface with sandpaper and both pieces would be ready to put together with either CA or the same epoxy you moulded them.. Estimated time of having the flap ready fully depending on the epoxy... about 30min.
     
  8. prem895

    prem895 Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2012
    Messages:
    1,144
    Likes Received:
    19
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Occupation:
    To stay under the governments radar
    Location:
    Toronto/Beijing
    Will blu tac work as the mold
     
  9. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
    Staff Member Administrator

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2005
    Messages:
    47,801
    Likes Received:
    1,568
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Occupation:
    A retired military Navigator/ATC, FIS controller
    Location:
    Poland
    Yep.. it should. But check if stamped part has a smooth surfaces in there. The plasticine gives it if the stencil is wet and cold.
     
  10. prem895

    prem895 Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2012
    Messages:
    1,144
    Likes Received:
    19
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Occupation:
    To stay under the governments radar
    Location:
    Toronto/Beijing
    Will the 2 part epoxy work?
     
  11. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
    Staff Member Administrator

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2005
    Messages:
    47,801
    Likes Received:
    1,568
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Occupation:
    A retired military Navigator/ATC, FIS controller
    Location:
    Poland
    #11 Wurger, May 10, 2013
    Last edited: May 10, 2013
    Yes it will. But it would be better if the mix wasn't too thick. It should be thin rather.
     
  12. woljags

    woljags Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2010
    Messages:
    1,358
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    glazier/vintage car restoration
    Location:
    maidenhead uk
    thats a brill idea Wojtek,i think i'm going to have a go scratch building something with this idea after practicing 1st
     
  13. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
    Staff Member Administrator

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2005
    Messages:
    47,801
    Likes Received:
    1,568
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Occupation:
    A retired military Navigator/ATC, FIS controller
    Location:
    Poland
    Glad you like it Bob. This is a very quick way for making small pieces. Of course it is possible to make bigger parts too.
     
  14. woljags

    woljags Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2010
    Messages:
    1,358
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    glazier/vintage car restoration
    Location:
    maidenhead uk
    i need me some 1/72nd scale plans of something interesting
     
  15. prem895

    prem895 Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2012
    Messages:
    1,144
    Likes Received:
    19
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Occupation:
    To stay under the governments radar
    Location:
    Toronto/Beijing
    Well,it's of to the store for my epoxy. Thanks Air Marshall, This is kinda fun. Got to get me one of thoses new 3D printers:lol:
     

    Attached Files:

    • 003.JPG
      003.JPG
      File size:
      462.2 KB
      Views:
      15
  16. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
    Staff Member Administrator

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2005
    Messages:
    47,801
    Likes Received:
    1,568
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Occupation:
    A retired military Navigator/ATC, FIS controller
    Location:
    Poland
    Looking good. You have grasped it well. However try to make the stamp colder or damp. The mould seems to be of a little bit rough sourfaces because the stamp stuck to the blue-tack at a few areas. Also it is fine to press the stamp into the block plasticine ( blue tack ) with something flat. Usually I use a piece of flat thick wooden board. Oh .. and the next tip .... it is better to shape the plasticine block with the flat thing firstly. I mean , put the piece of the plasticine of a flat surface. Then press it from the top with something flat ( it may be a plastic ruler e.g... ). It'll make the top surface flat. Then you can stamp the piece you need pressing it into the plasticine with the flat board. In the way you will get nice non-misshapen edges of the mould.
     
  17. prem895

    prem895 Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2012
    Messages:
    1,144
    Likes Received:
    19
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Occupation:
    To stay under the governments radar
    Location:
    Toronto/Beijing
    Well, This is my test piece
     

    Attached Files:

    • 004.JPG
      004.JPG
      File size:
      533.4 KB
      Views:
      14
  18. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
    Staff Member Administrator

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2005
    Messages:
    47,801
    Likes Received:
    1,568
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Occupation:
    A retired military Navigator/ATC, FIS controller
    Location:
    Poland
    #18 Wurger, May 10, 2013
    Last edited: May 10, 2013
    Yes that's it. However you could attach a small "wall" made of the blue tack around the mould and apply some more of the epoxy. The main reason are these bubbles. If the epoxy is "fresh" you may put the mould into a foil bag and suck off the air from the bag with a vacuum cleaner. It should remove these bubbles as well.
     
  19. prem895

    prem895 Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2012
    Messages:
    1,144
    Likes Received:
    19
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Occupation:
    To stay under the governments radar
    Location:
    Toronto/Beijing
    Too late,but the bubbles are inside and I have a smooth surface .
     
  20. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
    Staff Member Administrator

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2005
    Messages:
    47,801
    Likes Received:
    1,568
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Occupation:
    A retired military Navigator/ATC, FIS controller
    Location:
    Poland
    #20 Wurger, May 10, 2013
    Last edited: May 10, 2013
    It's OK. If these are inside of the piece it can be. Sometimes a few of them stay at the outer surface making it looking like a cheese and have to be spackle with a putty and sanded in order to get a nice smooth surface of the detail. Any pic here?
     
Loading...

Share This Page