P&W R1340-AN-1 oil leakage to the sump (1 Viewer)

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Leon Clasic

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Nov 21, 2022
Hello!
In our P&W r1340-AN-1 engine, after very long no in use, we discowere that the oil disapeared from the tank.
The oil found in the sump.
We drined the oil, re[laced the check valve "O" ring, chcked check valve spring tension and reinstalled the check valve.
Filled 7 Gallons of oil in the tank and left for one nigt.
In the morning we foud that approx. 3 Gallons went to the sump.
No such fenomena has been mantioned in P&W Maintenance books.
We nead an expert advisory. and appreciate quick replay.

Best Regards

Leon
 
When you say "sump" I'm assuming you mean the bottom of the crankcase? Pull the sparkplugs from the bottom cylinders and check if oil collect there. This may be normal.

MiTasol MiTasol what's your thoughts?
 
I would talk to Youngkins or Covingtons - been around for a long while. Personally not familiar with Youngkins engines but they have been around the longest. Used a Covington engine back in the 70s that ran real sweetly.

The only way I can think of off the top of my head that oil can drain to the sump is if there is some major internal seal failure or internal corrosion that is providing an internal path and that means you should not run the engine until you have talked to the experts. The sump itself has a fairly small volume so most of that oil is being collected in the crankcase and rockers.
 
Just dug out a few old books and wrapped my head around "the sump." (It's been a while since I've been around a round engine). I agree with MiTasol, there's something going on there. There shouldn't be more than a gallon of oil sitting in the sump from what I understand
 
Just dug out a few old books and wrapped my head around "the sump." (It's been a while since I've been around a round engine). I agree with MiTasol, there's something going on there. There shouldn't be more than a gallon of oil sitting in the sump from what I understand
@all, I am attaching a couple of photos of an R-1340 sump. The cast aluminum structure between the bottom two cylinders is the sump. From the second picture taken from underneath the engine, you can see how the rocker boxes drain into the sump. The top of the sump is also open allowing oil to drain into it from the crankcase. I don't have access to the R-1340 manuals right now. I'll see if I can find the oil system schematic if that helps.

L Leon Clasic As to this problem, my first guess is to check to see if the oil pump is hooked up to the correct lines. You might be flowing from the tank, through the oil pump into the galleries and then the crankcase.

We found Covington to be very knowledgeable about the easiest way to adjust the valve lash on the R-1340. The had a manual from 1972 with the instructions that were similar to the R-1830 and R-2800 that give more consistent adjustments. It is likely they will be able to help with this also. Plus they often answer the phone. :)

I hope that helps
 

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IF my memory is correct that sump is split in two internally with the majority of the sump collecting oil from the crankcase and only a small portion taking oil from the valves. If I am right only the crankcase section is drainable.

I will also look for a manual later today.
 
The oil sump is located between cylinders number 5 and 6 and is equipped with two oil drain plugs. The front drain plug accesses the rocker-box scavenge oil sump while the rear drain plug accesses the engine main case scavenge oil sump. The front sump typically holds around 1 ½ pints of oil or less while the rear sump contains about 3 ½ quarts engine oil. Quantities may vary depending on length of time in storage and engine idling / scavenging time prior to shut-down and what position the propeller (counterweight type) was placed in at shut-down.

 
In addition to our Yaks, we also run a 1937 Beech 18 (aka Beech twin) fitted with two P&W R985 Wasp Juniors. These have a split sump, the forward part drains the crankcase, the rear section drains the rocker boxes all emptied by the scavenge pump when the engine is running.
Inside the oil filter housing is a non return valve designed to stop the oil tank emptying into the sump and is supposed to be inspected periodically, your engine may have these fitted? The main failure point is an O Ring around the outside of the valve which gets 'tired'.
 
NICE to see a knuckle-scraper, oil under the fingernails item among the history stuff once in awhile!
Most of my flight time was behind Wrights, and talk of sumps and drain plugs takes me back...
 

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