primers

[Papa Tango Whiskey]

Here is a valid question. How may of you use etching primers and how many just sprays it straight from the bottle?

 

[fubar57]

I have no idea what an etching primer is. Off to the Googler................

 

[SANCER]

What do you mean by using etching primers? I do not know what that is either.

 

[Wurger]

Luis .. I think PTW means a similar kind of paint that are used for priming models before applying of camo colours or the metalic coats. Of course, it is possible to use a such coat for the PE parts too. Long time ago when the acrylic water colours were started to be used they peeled off quite easy. So it was suggested priming the PE parts too. However these contemporary paints are of much better quality so the priming isn't needed often. What is more the pre-painted parts are offered as well. Additionally the priming makes parts of more "thick" appearance. Anyway if somebody wants to prime the PE parts I would suggest using of any a light grey oil enamel like Humbrol for instance. The kind of colours sticks to the PE parts well and allows to apply the acrylic paints over that without any trouble. In addition this helps the paints stick better to the surface limiting the posibility of the peeling off. Unfortunately the oil enamels smell a lot to many people so I may recommend the Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (light grey or white) or Gunze Mr. Metal Primer that is clear.

 

[Michael Hope]

Here is a valid question. How may of you use etching primers and how many just sprays it straight from the bottle?

Are you painting a model kit in plastic/composite type material or are you trying to put the primer on metal? I use etching primer on Aluminum and it does work if mixed correctly.

 

[SANCER]

Luis .. I think PTW means a similar kind of paint that are used for priming models before applying of camo colours or the metalic coats. Of course, it is possible to use a such coat for the PE parts too. Long time ago when the acrylic water colours were started to be used they peeled off quite easy. So it was suggested priming the PE parts too. However these contemporary paints are of much better quality so the priming isn't needed often. What is more the pre-painted parts are offered as well. Additionally the priming makes parts of more "thick" appearance. Anyway if somebody wants to prime the PE parts I would suggest using of any a light grey oil enamel like Humbrol for instance. The kind of colours sticks to the PE parts well and allows to apply the acrylic paints over that without any trouble. In addition this helps the paints stick better to the surface limiting the posibility of the peeling off. Unfortunately the oil enamels smell a lot to many people so I may recommend the Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (light grey or white) or Gunze Mr. Metal Primer that is clear.

Very good information Wojtek, thank you very much.

 

[Papa Tango Whiskey]

What I mean by etching primer is a primer that actually does a chemical bond with the plastic underneith making it hard to remove by peeling tape or scratches. Most lacquers and enamels have an etching effect. I am looking for an acrylic primer that uses the same process. Vallejo Surface prep and Stynylkrez work well but do not actually " etch " the surface and they seriously clog the t9ips on my air brushes This is causing me to change paints because the urethane based paints like Valejo do clog quickly and in some instances are harder to clean, at least for me. Gunze Aqueous and Tamiya acrylic lacquers tend to work better out of my brushes and are easier to clean up with isopropyl alcohol

 

[SANCER]

Your observation is interesting, PTW ... currently I'm practically working with Vallejo and Tamiya, I still do not consider it difficult to apply the spray and struggle more than usual in cleaning my airbrush with Vallejo paints. Now I'm using Vallejo's primers and everything is going well. Thanks for touching the topic.
Saludos

 

[Wurger]

What I mean by etching primer is a primer that actually does a chemical bond with the plastic underneith making it hard to remove by peeling tape or scratches. Most lacquers and enamels have an etching effect. I am looking for an acrylic primer that uses the same process. Vallejo Surface prep and Stynylkrez work well but do not actually " etch " the surface and they seriously clog the t9ips on my air brushes This is causing me to change paints because the urethane based paints like Valejo do clog quickly and in some instances are harder to clean, at least for me. Gunze Aqueous and Tamiya acrylic lacquers tend to work better out of my brushes and are easier to clean up with isopropyl alcohol

As I said just try to the Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (light grey or white) or Gunze Mr. Metal Primer. The Gunze primer is a clear liquid that allows to apply it just by dipping parts into the primer. So you don't need to use a brush. Also it is offered in spray cans what makes the applying much easier..

and the Tamiya Fine Surface Primer ... both in bottles and spray cans...

 

[Papa Tango Whiskey]

I appreciate all the comebacks. Still, Brother Wurger, the primers that you are showing are solvent based primers and what I was looking for was an acrylic based etching primer. I used the ones that you are displaying with great results

Your observation is interesting, PTW ... currently I'm practically working with Vallejo and Tamiya, I still do not consider it difficult to apply the spray and struggle more than usual in cleaning my airbrush with Vallejo paints. Now I'm using Vallejo's primers and everything is going well. Thanks for touching the topic.
Saludos

One of the problems that I have had with those primes is that on the smaller nozzles there is a gummy build up in the tip which is difficult to remove by conventional means. I wind up with all kinds of difficulties with the Vallejo Poly urethane and the Badger Stynylrez. They are rather thick and spray rather heavily for me. Since I have gone back to Tamiya paints I found that my brush has not clogged unless I forget to clean it properly. To me the flat colors lay real flat and don't have any signs of a matt finish. However, I do realize that you may have a different outcome with your paints.

 

[Wurger]

Do you use a retarder?

 

[Papa Tango Whiskey]

yes I do

 

[fubar57]

I use Vallejo's problems and I shake the bejaysus out of it. I'm not talking 5 - 10 minutes, I'm talking several hours. I've never had a problem spraying or cleaning up. Others have had problems masking over it but I think they are impatient and don't wait long enough for the primer to properly harden. Vallejo recommends 12 hours, I give it 24. I do this for all their paint as well and again, no problems

 

[SANCER]

Very interesting, Wojtek, and I hope that in the future I will have the opportunity to have in my stock all the options of Primers and retarders.

I agree with you PTW, and since I use only normal nozzles, I still do not run into those setbacks.

On the other hand it is likely that because of the irregular time that I have to work in my workbench, that makes (like Geo says) what happen. And several times it takes more than 12-24 hours to get back to my projects.

Saludos amigos
.

 

[Crimea_River]

I don't use primers anymore since switching to Tamiya acrylics. I do prime if I need to paint photoetched parts but I use the Tamiya lacquer based primer for that.

 

[Papa Tango Whiskey]

I have changed to Tamiya acrylics and find that I dont really need the primer now. Funny how these things work out.