Silvering.

[Ron Pearcy]

I'm currently building a Tamiya Me262a-1a. For the first time I have airbrushed the model and been reasonably pleased with the results. I finished the kit with several airbrushed coats of Humbrol gloss acrylic varnish ready for the decals to be applied. I used the kit decals and Humbrol decalfix and for the first time for me the decals have silvered. I usually brush coat the gloss varnish on and don't have any problems with silvering. I think I did not get a glossy enough finish with the airbrush for the decals to settle. I've tried Microsol painted onto the decals and 'pricked' them but it didn't help. This has been a steep learning curve for me as a novice but I will persevere.
Any suggestions for a fix would be appreciated.
All the best.

 

[Wurger]

Judging by your depiction the problem is not the gloss varnish and not enough smooth surface as the background but the decal glue. Either it was an "old" one or there wasn't enough of that there. Sometimes even the Micro sol/set liquids can't help if there in no glue on the decal markings. Additinally you might press the decal marking not enough in order to remove the air from underneath.
Have you sealed the decals with a clear varnish yet? Which decal markings hit the silvering? Could you post a pic?

 

[Ron Pearcy]

Good point.

Thanks for your prompt answer. The decal fix I used (Humbrol) is about 10 months old. I have not yet sealed the decals yet. The markings that are most affected are the ones with a clear section,as in attached picture.
Thanks again.
Ron.

 

[Wurger]

OK. THX for the shot. As I thought that's the problem with the glue there. Are there still the postage stamps selling at a post office in the UK?

 

[Ron Pearcy]

Cheers for your help. I'll get some new decal solution.
Any recommendations. I've already got Microsol is it worth trying Microset ?

 

[Wurger]

The Micro liquids are quite good. One is applied on a top of the decal while the second has to be applied under. The one under decal should be apllied as the first. So you may try to apply some of the one for the top.

 

[Ron Pearcy]

Thanks again.

 

[Wurger]

You'r welcome.

BTW the Set has to go under decals while the Sol at top. The liquids cause decals getting corrugated. Don't try to make the decal falt, I mean smooth out. The liquids will make it itself

 

[Ron Pearcy]

Cheers.

 

[Crimea_River]

Stubborn decal issues can sometimes.be handled with SolvaSet decal solution. It's a more potent setting solution than the Micros. Pricking the decal over the bubbles through a drop of this stuff usually solves the problem for me but it may have to be repeated several times. However you need to be careful to not leave the stuff on longer than say 20 seconds as it could damage the decal.

 

[CATCH 22]

I've had similar troubles - not sure is it the glue, dirty surface or anything else. Always tried to bring Future/Klear BEHIND the decal. Normally when applying the decals I dip them in Future. When the decal is already applied (like yours) try to make a cut (with a scalpel) in the transparent area (middle of the Balkenkreuz). In your case you can cut along the panel line from top to bottom. With a soft brush with medium long hairs try to bring Future behind the decal trough the cut. Try with diluted Future (lower viscosity) for easier "spreading". Several times.

Any recommendations. I've already got Microsol is it worth trying Microset ?

Set and Sol are two completely different mediums. There was a rule of thumb: E is before O in the alphabet, so sEt comes before sOl. With Microset you prepare the surface where the decal will come. With Microsol you soften the decal after applying.
I'm using the Decal Set by Testors which is kind of a combined medium. I always use Future before and during applying decals.
Cheers!

 

[mikewint]

It is tough to tell from your pic but to my eye the surface does not look all that smooth. I've never used the Solvaset so no advice there. As long as the decals have not been sealed by an overcoat I'd just keep soaking them in Micro-SOL as, in effect, you want to partially dissolve the decal so it can flow into the surface.
To my mind the names tell you what they do...Micro-SET - SETS the decal onto the surface aiding in the adhering of the decal to the surface of the model. As an aside the -SET is just acetic acid or vinegar. I always add a few drops to my soaking water. Then I brush Micro-SET onto the model where the decal is going to be placed, then slide the decal onto the model and adjust its position. Use a paper towel to carefully wick-away excess liquid. Then comes Micro-SOL which acts like a SOLVENT to the decal dissolving the backing of the decal allowing it to flow like paint onto the model.

 

[at6]

I've used Micro set, Micro sol, and Solvaset at various times. With Solvaset, you have to be very careful as to brand of decal it's used on as it will virtually destroy any Invisaclear decal if used at full strength. I learned that from experience.

 

[Ron Pearcy]

Excellent advice from all . I wish I could get hold of future here in the UK.
Thanks again.

 

[at6]

I believe it was sold in the UK under a different brand name. It was the same stuff with different label. Perhaps some of the other members can remember what it is called in your neck of the woods.

 

[parsifal]

I will put it out there that there might be moisture trapped between the decal and the model.......

 

[Crimea_River]

Klear in the UK I believe.

 

[Ron Pearcy]

Thanks. I will see if I can get some.

 

[mikewint]

Johnson & Johnson FUTURE Floor Wax (is NOT a wax) has undergone many name changes. My bottle is over 5 years old at this point and stated clearly that it was FUTURE on the label but that is no longer the case. The product is nothing more nor less than a CLEAR ACRYLIC paint/coating. Thus any model paint manufacturer offers a CLEAR GLOSS acrylic paint or varnish as some term it. The big difference is the cost. The Pledge product is 10 Pounds for 798 mL versus the 17 mL or 23 mL model paint products for close to the same price.
You can still find the older product on Ebay from time to time.

 

[CATCH 22]

I believe it was sold in the UK under a different brand name. It was the same stuff with different label. Perhaps some of the other members can remember what it is called in your neck of the woods.

From all British forums I'm visiting I know it's called Klear (as mentioned above and in my previous post).

On both sides of the big water one can find Pledge as described in the post above - see here.