The Verlinden Method

[Mr. Ed]

Back when I was an armor modeller, I learned the Verlinden method of weathering. This involves gradually lightening the base color with a long series of drybrushing runs done with a scrubbing motion. This results in a realistic faded effect that I thought worked quite well.

Now that I'm getting back into aircraft after a long hiatus (I'm talking 20 years, folks), I wonder if I should use this method again. Have any of you done this? How do you think it would turn out on aircraft? I've always liked aircraft with differing shades on various panels - do you think this sort of drybrushing would help with this effect?

 

[Airframes]

See my answer on this effect in your thread on the B26. That's the way I've been doing it for about 40 years!

 

[Mr. Ed]

You gotta do what works for you. I'm still figuring that out after almost 40 years.

 

[Airframes]

Very true! I still find that very often the 'old ways' work just as well as they did when they weren't 'old'! I have to admit though, I occassionlly use an airbrush, on larger models, to achieve the same effect, but prefer a traditionall paint brush for building up the effect, using it as a 'damp' brush.

 

[weetam]

i uses pastels to achieve the faded paint look, and dry brushing/textured paint and dusting for weathering.

i have used the verlinden method (although i was unaware it WAS the verlinden method as it just seemed like common sense to me) to achieve a layered look on scenery, with this method being particulaly effective on rocks, bricks, cobbles, desert sand etc.

cant see me ever using this on paint jobs on vehicles/aircraft etc though except for rusty patches (which i always use 3 or 4 dry brushed colours) and burnt metal effects for exhausts, gun barrels etc.