1/48 Eduard Westland Lysander Mk.III

Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules

So much for taking a couple of weeks off from this build. Here I am just over 12 months later having recovered from serious illness and a 2,000km move north in preparation for my retirement (provided current world events stop ruining my retirement investment fund... :signsigh:).

The good news is that I am almost recovered from my poor health and am happily living where the temperature in winter rarely drops below 12C overnight across winter. Time to get back to the Lysander - which I can confirm survived the trip unscathed.

The next steps were to complete the cockpit and button up the fuselage to enclose the cockpit assembly. The photos below show the completed cockpit assembly, although I note that I must have taken these shots before I added a whole bunch of cables and wires out the back of IP. I did this as I discovered when test fitting that you can see down behind the IP, although how much you can actually see with the windscreen in place is debatable.
022_Completed Cockpit Assembly RHS.jpg 023_Completed Cockpit Assembly LHS.jpg 024_Completed Cockpit Assembly RHSF.jpg
I'm happy with the way the cockpit turned out, it looks busy and well "used".

The next step was to fit this into the fuselage and seal the two halves together. This is where it went a little bit south. In the following folders you can see where the cockpit edge panel on the port side is a whisker below the edge of the cockpit.
025_Gunsight Mount Frame.jpg 026_Gunsight Installation LHS.jpg 027_Gunsight Installation RHSF.jpg
Unfortunately, the kit does not have positive location points with which to "lock in" the cockpit assembly. I was too slow to realise the LHS of the assembly had dropped below the edge and had dried into a position nearly 1mm below the edge of the cockpit frame. Much swearing, poking and pushing resulted; but I did manage to get the frame back up to less than 0.5mm below the edge. Not perfect but it will have to do.

The photos also illustrate the gunsight mount and fitting of the gunsight itself. This was super fiddly, but with a bit of patience I managed to get both the PE framework and the clear plastic for the sight glass in place. In hindsight I think it might have been better to mount the framework on one side of the fuselage before joining the two halves together – maybe. That method might have proved just as challenging as the way I did it?

Next came some clean up work on the undercarriage spats. As usual I was not happy with the thickness of the plastic edges to the wheel areas, so I hacked away at thinning these down. Then I proceeded to put together the beautifully molded resin skis and to fit the very fiddly snow deflectors around the undercarriage oleo legs. Not 100% happy with how this looks but it is so fragile I don't want to touch it any further. You may also note that I elected to add some brass rod as stronger anchor points for the oleo legs – I had little confidence in just bonding the resin to the styrene via CA glue with no "key" to lock it all in place.
028_Landing Gear Spats Refinement.jpg 029_Landing Gear Assembly.jpg 031_Wing & Landing Gear Assembled.jpg

The next major task was to mask up the inside of the cockpit glazing in preparation for a coat of interior green. This took an absolute age to do, but I am hoping it will all be worthwhile at the end.
032_Canopy Glazing Interior.jpg

I have progressed further but will save that for an update in the coming week or so.

It's nice to get back to the workbench and feel like I am doing something constructive - if for no other reason than it makes me happy. As always, thanks to anyone dropping by and I'm looking forward to posting the next update soon. Cheers!
 
Thanks to everyone for popping by and leaving comments and encouragement. Still having some minor relapses, but luckily nothing I've not been able to handle this time around.

Time for the next update on Lysander progress. The next shot shows the major assemblies set up ready for the application of an undercoat, followed by one of the same assemblies having received a coat of Vallejo grey undercoat.
033_Main Assemblies Ready for Undercoat.jpg 034_Main Assemblies Undercoated.jpg

For reasons I am yet to identify, my application of the undercoat was patchy, with some areas rubbing off the plastic with the wipe of a finger. I've had issues with Vallejo undercoat and final coats which I put down to having too smooth/shiny a surface not allowing any purchase for the paint to bond. I did not think this one was overly smoothed, but the paint just would not adhere properly.

To fix this, I rough sanded the whole thing and then applied a coat of Mr Surfacer 1000 which was subsequently lightly sanded to remove its inherent graininess. I don't like to use this product in the airbrush, mainly because it is not water based and my spouse does not like the fact it stinks up the house, despite using an extraction fan out the window in my new hobby room. I didn't take any photos of this stage as I was a bit cranky with the situation.

Next, I moved on to paint the yellow fuselage band and wing underside end flashes. I've read in several build articles recently where the authors have used a pink undercoat for yellow to help deal with its translucent nature. I was a bit sceptical, but low and behold it worked. The next shot shows the yellow after only two lightish coats, you can see the pink undercoat on the port wing at the top. I think I'll be using this trick for all future yellow areas in my models.
035_Yellow Bands Applied.jpg

From there I was able to move onto the blue undersides. I masked off the yellow areas and proceeded to apply the light blue. I think the colour is reasonably close. Eduard provide colour codes for Mr Colour or Model Master paints but not Vallejo. I do have several conversion chart sources but am aware they can be a bit "subjective".
036_Blue Underside.jpg

Once the blue had dried, I started working my way through the very tedious process of masking. The border from the blue to the top side green/black and that between the green & black looks to be a soft demarcation, so I used the tried-and-true blu-tack worms and masking tape approach. Again, I elected not to take any photos – I find this process very boring and just bash on ahead to get it done as quickly as possible.

I applied the green first and once dried masked off the camouflage pattern for the black, leaving the blue still masked off from before. Both the green and black colours seemed to go down quite well, and I thought all should be fine once I removed the masking. Turns out I was wrong. Taking off the masking pulled away both the blue and the green paint in a few areas. I can't recall having the paint do this quite so badly on previous models – must be doing something wrong but not sure yet what that may be.

So, I worked through the process of fixing the offending areas and reapplied the masking where needed to respray. Once more I took no photos as I was mightily p*ssed off by then.

Once the retouched areas dried and I carefully removed the masking I very quickly applied a couple of good coats of polyurethane clear to seal it all in. The following photo shows the results.
037_Green & Black Top Side.jpg

I am now at the point where I can apply a strategically planned coat of chipping solution, with emphasis on the areas of the aircraft that would be subject to more wear and tear. Once done I can then move onto applying some very light coats of an off-white to represent the winter camouflage scheme. This will then be rubbed off to, hopefully, result in a worn "late winter" view of the aircraft. I've never attempted this sort of thing before, so it will either work – or it won't 😊.

Hopefully I'll have an update on this step in the coming weeks. Thanks so much to anyone dropping by for a look.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back