1:48 Engine Room #3 Battleship USS New Jersey for Permanent Display on Board.
- Thread starter Builder 2010
- Start date
Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules
Snautzer01
Marshal
- 46,292
- Mar 26, 2007
You make my head hurt. Its .. its...
The Biggest atta boy I have ever given.
Ever.
Respect, my man. Respect.
The Biggest atta boy I have ever given.
Ever.
Respect, my man. Respect.
Great work so far!
- Thread starter
- #284
Builder 2010
Staff Sergeant
Thanks guys! If weren't nuts, my head would hurt too. All those parts and no sprues and no instructions either. To solve the latter, I exploded the master drawing into logical sub-assemblies that I believe can be (mostly) built off the model.
Building it as sub-assemblies should streamline the assembly process a bit. Some of the walkways will have to wait until near the end for installation.
What's on the printer now are some reprints and new support systems for walkways. One is visible wrapping around the LP turbine on the above image. I think I have all the platforms finally designed.
Have a nice weekend
Building it as sub-assemblies should streamline the assembly process a bit. Some of the walkways will have to wait until near the end for installation.
What's on the printer now are some reprints and new support systems for walkways. One is visible wrapping around the LP turbine on the above image. I think I have all the platforms finally designed.
Have a nice weekend
SaparotRob
Unter Gemeine Geschwader Murmeltier XIII
Love the basketball hoop.
Excellent work so far!
T Bolt
Colonel
Fantastic!!!
- Thread starter
- #289
Builder 2010
Staff Sergeant
I'm reprinting some of the catwalk supports. They were wrong and too weak. Oh well.
And I attacked the electrical control panel to put in the tiny LED lights. I gave up on fishing the wires through the hole and down into the part. Instead, I just opened up the backs which made the wiring much easier. I found out that I could use a small carbide drill as a router (by accident). I didn't know how deep the wall was and actually cut through to the other side in two places. I had the option of reprinting or repairing. I chose to repair.
I thought about reattaching the cutout pieces, but it prroved impossibe.
The wires are shown down to the bottom.
I filled the damaged areas with Bondic. Shaping it after application was tricky, but might work okay.
The wires were soldered together when cleaning, so only two leads are connected to the power them. I tested the lights.
I then paved the top and light shields with Bare Metal Gold Foil. It's a great light block. I tested again.
To close the back holes I used 0.020" sheet styrene held with CA. I filled any seams with Tamiya Filler.
When light testing, you can see light seeping thouugh the styrene, but paint will block this bit.
The last thing I did was spray some Tamiya Dessert Sand.
After detail painting this should look pretty cool!
I also re-drew the fore catwalk frames. Besides being a bit weak, they were also wrong. They're printing now and will be done in a couple of hours.
This afternoon I'm a guest presenter for a group of Middle and High School kids who are on the autism spectrum. Trimble Corp, the owner of SketchUp, has found that kids on the spectrum learn better visually and like SketchUp. They have a formal reachout program called Project Spectrum, and I am participating in today's session.
And I attacked the electrical control panel to put in the tiny LED lights. I gave up on fishing the wires through the hole and down into the part. Instead, I just opened up the backs which made the wiring much easier. I found out that I could use a small carbide drill as a router (by accident). I didn't know how deep the wall was and actually cut through to the other side in two places. I had the option of reprinting or repairing. I chose to repair.
I thought about reattaching the cutout pieces, but it prroved impossibe.
The wires are shown down to the bottom.
I filled the damaged areas with Bondic. Shaping it after application was tricky, but might work okay.
The wires were soldered together when cleaning, so only two leads are connected to the power them. I tested the lights.
I then paved the top and light shields with Bare Metal Gold Foil. It's a great light block. I tested again.
To close the back holes I used 0.020" sheet styrene held with CA. I filled any seams with Tamiya Filler.
When light testing, you can see light seeping thouugh the styrene, but paint will block this bit.
The last thing I did was spray some Tamiya Dessert Sand.
After detail painting this should look pretty cool!
I also re-drew the fore catwalk frames. Besides being a bit weak, they were also wrong. They're printing now and will be done in a couple of hours.
This afternoon I'm a guest presenter for a group of Middle and High School kids who are on the autism spectrum. Trimble Corp, the owner of SketchUp, has found that kids on the spectrum learn better visually and like SketchUp. They have a formal reachout program called Project Spectrum, and I am participating in today's session.
Attachments
- Thread starter
- #291
Builder 2010
Staff Sergeant
Apparently, my presentation was a hit with the kids. I set up lighting to give it a more professional look and posed myself in front of the train layout. The kids appreciated that and that I spent the time to put an actual presentation together about the power of SketchUp and what's possible… at any age. The setup worked so well I might be able to use it do a podcast or two… hmmm.
This was the test image. I have these very bright LED lights with magnetic bases that I attached to the I-beam that's traverses the room in front of the layout. I didn't need them at full power.
It was a nice day so I got more outdoor painting done. I rattle-can paint all the below the floor foundations Tamiya Dark Red. It's also a great water line color for US ships. I painted this group first, and when I got back in the shop realized that I missed a few parts so I went back out and painted some more. I then took the big gray parts and spayed them with Tamiya Regular Gray Primer.
This paint dries very quickly and I was able to place a whole bunch of stuff onto the base
The re-designed front catwalk support is much better. In addition to actually fitting correctly, I thickened all the angle "iron" shapes to they had some strength. I made an error attempting to use near-scale cross-sections. The resin is just not strong enough in small cross-sections. The part is now very stable. With see-through grating it will look fantastic. Those angle braces would not be needed in the real world since the front edge would be welded to the bulkhead. There's only a hint of bulkhead on the model.
With the prime and foundation painting done, I can now settle down and paint the parts in the shop. My Albuqueque friend has finished gluing the base board together and doing the sanding operaton. He'll have it done in a week or so. This project is starting to accelerate, and I'm getting excited by it.
This was the test image. I have these very bright LED lights with magnetic bases that I attached to the I-beam that's traverses the room in front of the layout. I didn't need them at full power.
It was a nice day so I got more outdoor painting done. I rattle-can paint all the below the floor foundations Tamiya Dark Red. It's also a great water line color for US ships. I painted this group first, and when I got back in the shop realized that I missed a few parts so I went back out and painted some more. I then took the big gray parts and spayed them with Tamiya Regular Gray Primer.
This paint dries very quickly and I was able to place a whole bunch of stuff onto the base
The re-designed front catwalk support is much better. In addition to actually fitting correctly, I thickened all the angle "iron" shapes to they had some strength. I made an error attempting to use near-scale cross-sections. The resin is just not strong enough in small cross-sections. The part is now very stable. With see-through grating it will look fantastic. Those angle braces would not be needed in the real world since the front edge would be welded to the bulkhead. There's only a hint of bulkhead on the model.
With the prime and foundation painting done, I can now settle down and paint the parts in the shop. My Albuqueque friend has finished gluing the base board together and doing the sanding operaton. He'll have it done in a week or so. This project is starting to accelerate, and I'm getting excited by it.
Attachments
- Thread starter
- #293
Builder 2010
Staff Sergeant
Started doing some fun painting today. I got the electric deck upper painted. I'm reprinting the lower deck's equipment. I kept dropping the darn thing and have been breaking off all those cute little knobs. I was happy with the painting either. But the electrical console looks decent. The actual panel has black gauge faces with tiny white needles. It wouldn't show up.
Here they are placed for the pic. They won't be glued in place until the entire asseembly can be correctly positioned.
Painting will continue tomorrow.
Here they are placed for the pic. They won't be glued in place until the entire asseembly can be correctly positioned.
Painting will continue tomorrow.
Vic Balshaw
Major General
They sure look good. 
SaparotRob
Unter Gemeine Geschwader Murmeltier XIII
Really cool stuff.
- Thread starter
- #297
Builder 2010
Staff Sergeant
Thanks!
I spent the whole session today preparing paint and masking… A couple of hours of masking. Most of the next painting will be by airbrush. I decanted the remains of the Tamiya Dark into a bottle for later use. Some of the apparatus is sitting on foundations that I sprayed with this before, but there will be a couple of pieces where that hasn't been done and I need it for touchup work. I chose Mission Models Dark Ghost Gray as the machine color. It needs to be prepared using about 10% of their thinner and about the same amount of some binder such as floor wax with Future. Mission sells the polymer, but it's a bit pricey. The fellows in my model club said that Future works the same even though Mission specifically says it doesn't.
Some of the to-be-painted areas will be white, but most will be machine gray. The exception is the inner parts of the turbine housing which will be bare steel on the inside and white on the outside. Some of the elbows on the big water inlet piping is painted blue on the ship and I'm going to do that the same. The masking took so long that painting will have to take place tomorrow.
I spent the whole session today preparing paint and masking… A couple of hours of masking. Most of the next painting will be by airbrush. I decanted the remains of the Tamiya Dark into a bottle for later use. Some of the apparatus is sitting on foundations that I sprayed with this before, but there will be a couple of pieces where that hasn't been done and I need it for touchup work. I chose Mission Models Dark Ghost Gray as the machine color. It needs to be prepared using about 10% of their thinner and about the same amount of some binder such as floor wax with Future. Mission sells the polymer, but it's a bit pricey. The fellows in my model club said that Future works the same even though Mission specifically says it doesn't.
Some of the to-be-painted areas will be white, but most will be machine gray. The exception is the inner parts of the turbine housing which will be bare steel on the inside and white on the outside. Some of the elbows on the big water inlet piping is painted blue on the ship and I'm going to do that the same. The masking took so long that painting will have to take place tomorrow.
Vic Balshaw
Major General
All looks good.
Great work so far!
