Airfix Decals (1 Viewer)

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Heinz

Captain
7,686
17
Feb 6, 2007
Melbourne, Victoria
They either work or they don't thats my experience.

Went to whack the codes and roundals on my Lancaster this afternoon and well they shrivelled up on me. Whether its age or what I'm a bit frustated.

Used warm water, made sure the surface was clean. The paint being matt probably is main cause.

Anywhere I can lancaster decals?

Cheers
 
Thanks SE.:)
I had a thought perhaps use a satin black or even gloss? Then weather it. Decals may adhere better.


My kit is the newer version they released but it sat around. Actually that one is better Screaming Eagle the old one has S for SUgar the RAAF bomber :)
 
Cheers Wurger my friend coming through:)

You are welcome dear friend.But I would like to back to your model decals.I think you should put the gloss cote at the places where the decals would be, firstly.For oil enamels I suggest The Humbrol one ( it's the varnish in a small 28ml bottles offered) because it doesn't become yellowish even for long time.For sure you know that the decals stick better when the surface is very smooth.
Secondly,if the decals are quite old ( but for the new ones I suggest it also) you should use Micro-set and Micro-sol liquids ( the Gunze firm offers these also but their names are different).In my opinion these alsways help with the decals.
 
Thanks:)

I need to buy some micro set it seems. I've been building tamiya and academy lately and haven't really touched Airfix for a while. I forgot to my dismay how fragile decals can be.

You can buy clear coat in spray cans yes?

Because doing my painting by hand still I cant really paint a matt varnish over decals to seal or tone the gloss down because they'd rip apart.

thanks.
 
Thanks:)

You can buy clear coat in spray cans yes?

To be honest yes and no.I use an airbrush and a compressor so I don't have any problem with this.But there is another possibility.I don't know if in your city( town) there is a shoop with goods for cars but in my one is this kind of a shop.In the shop there are available car paints in a spray and also a gloss varnish both acrylic and fast-dry one.I've used these acrylic gloss cote for some models that I did for mates..It works.The model surfaces became smooth and there was no problem to stick decals.
 
I'll look into that. Seems I need to get an airbrush eventually.

thanks mate.

I suggest it.An airbrush it is a very useful tool.Of course a brush is needed as well and you shouldn't throw it away.I've have somewhere an article about how to make it by hand.It is very easy one but useful and the layer of a paint looks much better then the one painted with a brush.I had the one like that some years ago.It was powered by a pump for a Li-Lo ( I don't know if it is a correct name in English)
 
Inflatable bed is that what you mean?

I have one question Wurger, with masking is tamiya tape the best to use?

I tried using basic masking tape and paint some clear over the edges and still go paint under the tape.
 
Yes Heinz I've ment an inflatable bed (mattress).THX :D

And Yes for Tamiya tape.It is one of the best I've used so far.However the regular paper tape which you can buy in shops also should be good.
I think you problem with the paint under it is that you don't stick the tape edges to surfaces strong enough or the adhesive of the tape isn't good enough.Therefore the Tamiya tape is much better one.Simply it is of good quality.
But you use a brush and as memory serves I had the same touble with paints.I think it is in connection to the thickness of a paint layer..Using a brush the layer is thicker than the one painted with an airbrush.Try to paint a thin layer of a paint and then if it is needed you can put the second one.Certainly the first one has to be dry before you put the second layer.

BTW. Do you use a primer?
 
Over the years my brush has improved and my thickness applied isnt bad but not good enough.

I don't use primer but I do wash the plastic parts with warm soapy water.
 
Mainly enamels, humbrol because they are easier to get and cheaper for me at the moment.A store was closing down so I got some cheap. I use some tamiya acrylics sometimes.
 
Also just like me.:D :lol:

So the problem is with your tape.There is offered the paper tape for masking windows,doors etc... in Poland.The tape is similar to Tamiya one.It is yellow and its glue is good.Howerver there are problems with its sticking to model surfaces,just like you have described above..I've just recalled myself a trick I used to avoid the feature.It appeared that its ability to strong sticking to a surface is in connection with a width of a stripe of the tape.So I cut off a very narrow (about 2mm) stripe and sticked to a surface firstly.Then I fixed the rest of masking to the narrow stripe but not to the model surface directly.It helped me to solve the problem mostly.
 
Great minds think alike :D:lol:

The tape strip method I shall try on Heinkel He111.


Thankyou very much for your advice. I have many models to upload on here.

Cheers Heinz :)
 
Thanks SE.:)
I had a thought perhaps use a satin black or even gloss? Then weather it. Decals may adhere better.


My kit is the newer version they released but it sat around. Actually that one is better Screaming Eagle the old one has S for SUgar the RAAF bomber :)

I was thinking of a matt black and maybe a gloss black for the spinner, same as the wheels. I have to do alot of research as for painting and the decals as the kit I got is not very good on painting and decal instructions. But it goes together like a dream!
 

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