Hamilton Std prop on Allison V-12

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Brent

Airman
34
17
May 9, 2018
I have a P-40K project, with an Allison V-12 -99 engine, and a set of cut down blades from a DC-3 made to fit. I am trying to get the exact info on what needs to be done to the engine to mount the Ham Std hub. I know I have to drill the nose of the crankshaft, but to what diameter? What needs to be done to mount the HS governor to the front gear case? Thanks
 
Call Joe Yancey at Yancey Enterprises. (909) 357-4174. He builds Allisons from parts and can help you with what is needed. His shop is in California, U.S.A. I'd call between 10 am and 1 pm local time.
 
Call Joe Yancey at Yancey Enterprises. (909) 357-4174. He builds Allisons from parts and can help you with what is needed. His shop is in California, U.S.A. I'd call between 10 am and 1 pm local time.
 
Actually its very simple.
the prop shaft is either already open for the ham standard prop or it's plugged for the Curtis electric. The parts book shows the lock plate,screws, round locking nut and alum spacer that close off the oil passages.
The 3 screws and plate are easy to remove. the locking nut takes a hex tool and 200 foot/pounds or more Tq to loosen. Then the aluminum spacer comes out with the copper gasket. At that point you will see a steel disk with one hole in the center and a ring of small holes at the edge. Stop at this point. You are now ready to install the propeller, the transfer tube and the dome. follow the manual as steps and tightening are rather important.
The prop gov mounts same as the electric one. However, the governors come in two rotation directions and two choices for the oil feed ( A or B). Make sure you get the one for the P-40 aircraft. That and use the rubber gasket with the wire screen in it.
Last is the gov drive coupling: some gov come with the spline drive as a built in part. most do not and need the drive part. They come in two lengths, about 1 1/4" and 1 3/4" . the short one is correct. the long one will damage the governor.
Once all that is done you still have to rig the control arm/cable. you want someone who has done it before to help with that.
Mike
 
Actually its very simple.
the prop shaft is either already open for the ham standard prop or it's plugged for the Curtis electric. The parts book shows the lock plate,screws, round locking nut and alum spacer that close off the oil passages.
The 3 screws and plate are easy to remove. the locking nut takes a hex tool and 200 foot/pounds or more Tq to loosen. Then the aluminum spacer comes out with the copper gasket. At that point you will see a steel disk with one hole in the center and a ring of small holes at the edge. Stop at this point. You are now ready to install the propeller, the transfer tube and the dome. follow the manual as steps and tightening are rather important.
The prop gov mounts same as the electric one. However, the governors come in two rotation directions and two choices for the oil feed ( A or B). Make sure you get the one for the P-40 aircraft. That and use the rubber gasket with the wire screen in it.
Last is the gov drive coupling: some gov come with the spline drive as a built in part. most do not and need the drive part. They come in two lengths, about 1 1/4" and 1 3/4" . the short one is correct. the long one will damage the governor.
Once all that is done you still have to rig the control arm/cable. you want someone who has done it before to help with that.
Mike
Fantastic! Just the info I needed....thanks a bunch!
 
So does the R1830 and the R1820.
We started using these props on the Allison powered Yak 3 replicas in the mid 1990's. A brand new prop was less than $2,000 then.
One more thing is the fine pitch stop in the propeller hub. It is adjusted to give the desired RPM at field barometric boost (30" at sea level). Assuming the engine is running correctly.
 
So does the R1830 and the R1820.
We started using these props on the Allison powered Yak 3 replicas in the mid 1990's. A brand new prop was less than $2,000 then.
One more thing is the fine pitch stop in the propeller hub. It is adjusted to give the desired RPM at field barometric boost (30" at sea level). Assuming the engine is running correctly.
we'll take that into consideration on the install. Thanks again!
 

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