Crimea_River
Marshal
Liking it.
Hasegawa 1/32 Fw190D-9
- Thread starter JKim
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #202
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
I had a brilliant idea of using children's clay to make the spinner removal. This clay dries into a stiff foam-like substance. My thought was to put a small amount of this clay into the spinner and then press the prop hub into it. Let it dry and the hardened clay would form a "receptacle" for the hub, giving enough friction to hold the spinner in place. It worked... for a few minutes. After only a couple of removals, the tight fit of the dry foam got too loose to hold the spinner in place. Back to the drawing board.
I am using Gunze acrylics for the RLM 82/83 top side colors. So I wanted to test these out on the canopy. Red 1 had some noticeable chipping on the canopy so a coat of Tamiya AS-12 (silver in a spray can decanted into the airbrush) was put over a black base.
After hairsrpay was applied and left to dry, the preshading was done.
The canopy is mostly RLM 82 with just the rear portion in the darker RLM 83.
The chipping worked out well using the hairspray. Much better than the MIG stuff.
All of the seams on the Dora have been addressed so she is ready for painting.
I still have not decided whether to do the top or bottom first but I am going to do hairspray chipping at the wing root so again I used Tamiya AS-12 over black as the base metal color. Metallic finishes are unforgiving when it comes to underlying flaws so this is a good test to see how successful the wing root repair was.
The canopy frame has been given a layer of salt fading.
I am using Gunze acrylics for the RLM 82/83 top side colors. So I wanted to test these out on the canopy. Red 1 had some noticeable chipping on the canopy so a coat of Tamiya AS-12 (silver in a spray can decanted into the airbrush) was put over a black base.
After hairsrpay was applied and left to dry, the preshading was done.
The canopy is mostly RLM 82 with just the rear portion in the darker RLM 83.
The chipping worked out well using the hairspray. Much better than the MIG stuff.
All of the seams on the Dora have been addressed so she is ready for painting.
I still have not decided whether to do the top or bottom first but I am going to do hairspray chipping at the wing root so again I used Tamiya AS-12 over black as the base metal color. Metallic finishes are unforgiving when it comes to underlying flaws so this is a good test to see how successful the wing root repair was.
The canopy frame has been given a layer of salt fading.
fubar57
General
Looking good John. I love Gunze but I'm struggling to find a reliable dealer in Canada
- Thread starter
- #205
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
My local shops don't carry Gunze either. I get all of it online.
Painting of Red 1 has officially begun. I started by doing my normal panel pre-shading.
I applied a mottle on the top side to help modulate the camo colors. I don't think it is worthwhile doing this to the bottom as the high contrast red and white stripes will probably negate any pre-shade effects unless I dial back on the white and red, which I don't want to do. Even the panel line pre-shading might be rendered unnoticeable by the time I get done with the stripes.
I had some leftover black in the airbrush so I darkened the bottom center. The radiator cowling and the horizontal elevators are detached but will be painted at the same time as the rest of the airframe.
My preshading routine wears me out so that's all I'm going to do today. I have map out the camo colors using the references that I have. This Dora is from the Fiesler factory and it appears that it has a engine power-egg that was painted at a separate factory and doesn't match the rest of the fuselage. It may have even been a replacement since the exhaust stains don't seem to match. The gun cowling may have been a replacement as it does not match either the power-egg nor the fuselage. I'm going to try to capture these features on this build.
Painting of Red 1 has officially begun. I started by doing my normal panel pre-shading.
I applied a mottle on the top side to help modulate the camo colors. I don't think it is worthwhile doing this to the bottom as the high contrast red and white stripes will probably negate any pre-shade effects unless I dial back on the white and red, which I don't want to do. Even the panel line pre-shading might be rendered unnoticeable by the time I get done with the stripes.
I had some leftover black in the airbrush so I darkened the bottom center. The radiator cowling and the horizontal elevators are detached but will be painted at the same time as the rest of the airframe.
My preshading routine wears me out so that's all I'm going to do today. I have map out the camo colors using the references that I have. This Dora is from the Fiesler factory and it appears that it has a engine power-egg that was painted at a separate factory and doesn't match the rest of the fuselage. It may have even been a replacement since the exhaust stains don't seem to match. The gun cowling may have been a replacement as it does not match either the power-egg nor the fuselage. I'm going to try to capture these features on this build.
- Thread starter
- #207
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
The Dora is ready for its first camo color, which will be the RLM 76 Light Blue. Starting at the tail, the blue is built up slowly, gradually and working from panel to panel. It's important to have good lighting and constantly shift your perspective to make sure you monitor your results from all angles as you go.
As I move forward, I'm looking at the areas I've already painted and adding opacity to the blue until I get to the desired point.
The thin paints allow you to dial in the effect, depending on what you want. I prefer a very subtle, almost unnoticeable effect, which the tail exhibits. This will be the first of many layers of weathering so I don't need the pre-shade to do it all.
Similarly, I apply the RLM 76 to the other side. I am leaving more of the preshade visible as you go forward. This is due to the engine location, which in itself is a source of wear (i.e. the exhaust pipes and various heat effects). Also the camo gets denser and more complicated towards the front.
A close-up of some of the painted areas to show the riveting work and also the smooth, grain-free paint finish that the thinned paint allows. One of the things that I do in the beginning of all builds is to re-scribe ALL of the panel lines including hatches and ports. Not necessarily to make them deeper but make them more uniform.
After the RLM76 is done, I apply the RLM82 Bright Green to the wings. Because the wing camo is simpler and also to facilitate the chipping at the wing roots, I am going to paint the wings first and do the fuselage later.
The thin paint also much greater spray control, which minimizes the need for masking. There is a slight overspray at the RLM 76/ RLM 82 junction but perfectly acceptable given the further painting that will occur here. I will probably chip the RLM 82 before applying the darker RLM 83 green.
As I move forward, I'm looking at the areas I've already painted and adding opacity to the blue until I get to the desired point.
The thin paints allow you to dial in the effect, depending on what you want. I prefer a very subtle, almost unnoticeable effect, which the tail exhibits. This will be the first of many layers of weathering so I don't need the pre-shade to do it all.
Similarly, I apply the RLM 76 to the other side. I am leaving more of the preshade visible as you go forward. This is due to the engine location, which in itself is a source of wear (i.e. the exhaust pipes and various heat effects). Also the camo gets denser and more complicated towards the front.
A close-up of some of the painted areas to show the riveting work and also the smooth, grain-free paint finish that the thinned paint allows. One of the things that I do in the beginning of all builds is to re-scribe ALL of the panel lines including hatches and ports. Not necessarily to make them deeper but make them more uniform.
After the RLM76 is done, I apply the RLM82 Bright Green to the wings. Because the wing camo is simpler and also to facilitate the chipping at the wing roots, I am going to paint the wings first and do the fuselage later.
The thin paint also much greater spray control, which minimizes the need for masking. There is a slight overspray at the RLM 76/ RLM 82 junction but perfectly acceptable given the further painting that will occur here. I will probably chip the RLM 82 before applying the darker RLM 83 green.
- Thread starter
- #208
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
After the RLM 82 has dried a few hours, I get a stiff brush damped with water and start "scrubbing" all over the wing root. After a few moments, you'll start to see a few dots of silver popping through and with continued brushing, the dots turn into bigger and bigger chips. Water will compromise the top from beneath so after some chips are established, I like to wipe any standing water off and start again with a newly dampened brush. Remember to wipe off any water when you are done. The areas of chipping are unnaturally isolated... the two wing roots and on top of the canopy... but that's ok. We can these areas in with more chipping using other techniques later on.
I can now continue with my camo painting. The RLM 83 Dark Green goes next. Try it out on the horizontal stabilizers first.
Follow suit with the wings. All of the airbrush work to this point has been freehand with no masks required. I always refer to the reference photos when determining how hard or how soft the demarcation line is and use the appropriate technique.
A tape mask is used to mark the hard edge between the engine cowling and the fuselage.
Ok... here's where we are at... most of the major camo painting has been complete. The gun cover will be masked off after the paint dries and then I'll have to tackle the mottling (the most nerve-racking, for me) and the various field markings/stains that appear on the reference photos.
I always think the plane looks really weird at this stage. This is especially true of late war Luftwaffe aircraft, with their hodge-podge of separately manufactured sub-components and replaced equipment. At this point of the build, it's important NOT to listen to your gut and stick to what you see in the reference photos. It will all make visual sense later on in the build.
I can now continue with my camo painting. The RLM 83 Dark Green goes next. Try it out on the horizontal stabilizers first.
Follow suit with the wings. All of the airbrush work to this point has been freehand with no masks required. I always refer to the reference photos when determining how hard or how soft the demarcation line is and use the appropriate technique.
A tape mask is used to mark the hard edge between the engine cowling and the fuselage.
Ok... here's where we are at... most of the major camo painting has been complete. The gun cover will be masked off after the paint dries and then I'll have to tackle the mottling (the most nerve-racking, for me) and the various field markings/stains that appear on the reference photos.
I always think the plane looks really weird at this stage. This is especially true of late war Luftwaffe aircraft, with their hodge-podge of separately manufactured sub-components and replaced equipment. At this point of the build, it's important NOT to listen to your gut and stick to what you see in the reference photos. It will all make visual sense later on in the build.
fubar57
General
Beauty
- Thread starter
- #211
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
I've masked off the gun cowling and painted it RLM 82.
I've added some mottling to the nose of Red 1 based on the photos. There are lots of reference photos of Red 1 that I can draw from but limited in terms of point of view and also they are all, with the exception of one, black and white. So there will be a lot of color speculation but I'll do my best to replicate Red 1's particular look.
I've added some mottling to the nose of Red 1 based on the photos. There are lots of reference photos of Red 1 that I can draw from but limited in terms of point of view and also they are all, with the exception of one, black and white. So there will be a lot of color speculation but I'll do my best to replicate Red 1's particular look.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Nice paintwork as always John. Note that Crandall maintains that the main wing and horizontal stab uppers were 74/75 unless there is some new info out there.
Great work so far John!
- Thread starter
- #215
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks guys! Andy... I have Crandall's book and it definitely makes a case for RLM74/75 on the upper wings. I am going with Japo's interpretation, which can be found in Volume 2 of their 2-part Fw190D Camo & Markings books. It's got quite extensive coverage on Red 1... eight pages of analysis, photos and artist's renderings. Using the same photographic references, including the one color shot of Red 1 found in Crandall's book, Japo describes the upper wing surfaces as RLM 82/83. I think it's a toss-up... I wasn't entirely convinced of the 74/75 argument when looking Crandall's book, especially given the quality of the color photo and how little of the upper surfaces was showing.
- Thread starter
- #216
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
I've started on the mottle for Red 1. Keeping close eye on my reference photos, I applied diffuse mottle patterns using RLM 82 and 83.
I read that the rudder was assembled and painted independently of the tail plane so I wanted to use a different set of steps to differentiate. I mottled the rudder using RLM 74 and 75 and then oversprayed the rudder with a light coat of RLM 82. I then used RLM 76 and scribbled lines to lighten the rudder. The rudder hinge was highlighted in RLM 83 as evidenced in the reference photos. I also used RLM 74 to overspray what appears to be a "7" on the starboard side. But no such feature on the other side... I'll have to think about this.
The topside camo is essentially finished. I'll probably do some touch-ups and then I'll seal it with a clear coat before moving on to the bottom.
I read that the rudder was assembled and painted independently of the tail plane so I wanted to use a different set of steps to differentiate. I mottled the rudder using RLM 74 and 75 and then oversprayed the rudder with a light coat of RLM 82. I then used RLM 76 and scribbled lines to lighten the rudder. The rudder hinge was highlighted in RLM 83 as evidenced in the reference photos. I also used RLM 74 to overspray what appears to be a "7" on the starboard side. But no such feature on the other side... I'll have to think about this.
The topside camo is essentially finished. I'll probably do some touch-ups and then I'll seal it with a clear coat before moving on to the bottom.
fubar57
General
Sweet
Crimea_River
Marshal
Thanks John. I don't have the JaPo series and was not aware of the different interpretation.
