Is decal solution really worth it ?

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Which is? You may have mentioned it already, but my brain stopped working after I hit a certain age. Blackhawk?
 

Thanks, I will try it for sure.

A last question, with your system, do you put varnish everywhere on the plane (including clear parts) ? Because I never used varnish before... As I said, I'm still an apprentice.
 
Everywhere EXCEPT clear parts, or areas which you want to have a different degree of shininess, such as tyres, exhausts, gun barrels (when they are long enough to matter - we're talking Hurricane IID length here), but otherwise, yes.

You've GOT to use an airbrush, don't forget - that really is the key between OK models and good ones.
 
Forgot to say - best to cover the cockpit/interior over, or the varnish might build up and whiten.
 
Yes ndicki a Blackhawk. When I am finished with my tribute to my Blackhawk days I am going to start building WW2 aircraft again. This one is just take quite some time, I have to make it as accurate as possible, so where things are missing, I am scratch building such as the cables for the passenger seats and so forth.
 
At least you've got no shortage of information. That's usually a major stumbling block - I can't afford to spend twice the price of the model itself on books and docs...
 
Makes it easier and more difficult at the same time! You can't just ignore a bit of missing detail, or it'll nag at you every time you look at the finished model!
 
Okay, I bought some setting solution... In fact, it's a two-bottles combo by Micro Scale System. One is called Micro SET (which is also a decal remover) and the other Micro SOL (which is used to soften decals to apply on irregular surfaces).

I tried it and it seems to work well for falling off decals. Now may be I should try to varnish them before the decals start falling off again. What brand is the best?
 
Gunze acrylic. It's not the cheapest, but there you are. (Tamiya varnish tends to 'powder' as you spray it, and can leave the surface grainy.) Dilute it with roughly 50:50 industrial alcohol to Tamiya Acrylic diluant, and cut the varnish till it is fluid enough to spray. That'll leave it shiny, so then, go over it with whatever enamel (better solidity) varnish you can find. I normally use Humbrol Mattcote, although as Airfix/Humbrol has just fallen through, I'M not sure what will be available in the future.
 
What is the best thing to apply to the overall model to make the decals look more realistic rather than applied decals.

I used decal solution but I still can not get the quality that I want.
 
That's the whole point - gloss varnish, decals with Micro Sol where necessary, gloss varnish, panel lining, final varnish - and they look as though they've been painted right on.
 
Can't remember if I'd posted this already - Revell 1/32nd - check out the markings - treated as described.
 

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Okay, thanks. I never heard of Gunze before... I hope I'll find it at the local hobby store. Otherwise I'll have to order it by mail and pay some extra money.

Just to make sure it is the right thing, is it what you were talking about ?
Squadron.com
 
No. Don't use spray cans - somewhere on this modelling forum that was covered; this is the stuff:

Squadron.com

Check out the other acrylic paints while you're there. But airbrush only!

Gunze Sangyo Paint

I don't know this shop, but it shows you the colour range.
 
I read the thread you are referring to, Ndicki. But I don't see what's the problem with spray cans... I used them a few times.

Of course, you can't do all of the painting with those cans, but I used the main colors as "font" colors. I mean, when I had an aircraft that had green and gray camo, I used a gray spray can to make the font color then I added the green "camo lines" with a standard brush.

But I'll follow your advice about the varnish.
 
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