model aircraft painting troubles

[Crunch]

I have an airbrush but have used rattle cans for clear coats. I'm not doing that any more, I'm fed up with thick sections and air bubbles. As Crimea said, they're all or nothing.

the best thing you can do is get an airbrush (I just bought one off Ebay for $35 delivered as it has 3 nozzles and if it's rubbish, it only cost me $35!). Then practice, practice, practice!!! They're actually NOT as daunting as everyone thinks, and I've since found out, that an average air job is better than a good brush job!

As for ratios, don't be daunted by that either. I don't do anything specific, I just wing it and change it until I get it right. Getting it right is to a spec that I'M happy with, not a text book rate. It will also vary with things like thickness of brand/type and even how long it's been sitting still! Try a 50:50 to start, and go from there.

Buy a few cheap kits so you don't stress about "ruining" them. Or find something else to spray... Bit of plastic, old fishing lures, the Mrs' hairdryer, the dog.....

The only thing I will say, is get a compressor with a tank, not a direct pump type. I bought a direct pump type and while it's good and I do like it, it can tend to 'splutter' paint out at times.

The sooner you bite the bullet, the sooner you'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner! Also, the last Friday of every month, my local shop (up Gosford way) has a "club" night, and they semi-regularly do an airbrush night. Mike Bass, who's a local that builds pro models for museums etc runs it, and teaches anyone the basics. He will also do private lessons if you're interested. Very approachable guy.

 

[N4521U]

I do agree with the tank bit. It buffers the pump cycles. If you do a direct pump only you get the beat of the pump, pump ,pump. And the more air you need the more the pulse you will get.

Ratios? I usually put paint in the cup 1/4-1/2 full, a couple of drops of good thinner in the cup, cover the tip with your finger and LIGHTLY pull the trigger back, make sure you are over the lawn the first time you do this because the back pressure will push the paint up into your shirt. Best to keep your thumb lightly over the top of the cup to prevent this. What will happen is the back pressure will mix the paint in the cup for you. Do this untill the coverage is what you want. Run low on paint, a little paint, a little thinner, mix, when it's right your in bidness!

Light coats at first, finish coats can be a little thicker, meaning less thinned.

Go to town mate.

 

[Airframes]

All good advice, although I prefer to mix/thin the paint in a separate container, as it allows more positive control, the shade and consistency of the paint can be gauged, and it prevents the mottled shirt effect!"
I use a plastic shot glass, or one of those small plastic tubs used for medicines to mix the paint in, then transfer it to the airbrush. A mix might start 50/50, but can sometimes go to something like 60% thinner or more, depending on the paint and requirements. Basically, when it runs down the jar/glass/mixing container like milk, then it's in the right area of mix ratios.
If you have an airbrush, use it - don't sit looking at it,being nervous. That's like owning a car and being afraid to drive it.Practice mixing various paints, and practice spraying various patterns, lines, thin lines, large areas, whatever, onto anything to hand (the wife's hair tends to get a violent reaction). Once you think you've got the 'feel' for the brush, have a go at doing a basic colour on a 'scrap' model (I keep an old and battered 1/32nd scale P-51, just for experimenting on), then, bite the bullet, and try it 'live' on an actual model.
As for 'rattle cans' - if you have a wall which needs graffiti, fine - if not, then throw the things away.

 

[akkasoothy]

thanx for the advise everyone , most helpful. and thanx crunch for letting me know abot that club/airbrushing coarse at gosford sounds interesting , would be interested in getting some lessons. crunch did u go to the model show on the 3rd at the memorial hall? that was a great show, some dam fine models there, i liked the 'fine scale' mellenium falcon they had there. curse myself for not bringing a camera.

 

[akkasoothy]

just got home and realised that i glued the back of the tail parts upside down on the A-10. dam im good.

 

[Airframes]

That'll confuse any AAA gunners !!

 

[akkasoothy]

haha,well it confused me! well iv just broke them off now. so called "super glue" is prety weak.

 

[dneid]

Hey, akkasoothy,
Man, I can remember those days years ago with spray cans...... although, those days are a bit fuzzy at times. Age or fumes, maybe both. I finally made the move to airbrushing about 20 years ago. I bought a Paasche H, single stage brush and a decent lil compressor. I still have both of them to this day. I now use dual stage brushes and my H for broad coverage. All my brushes are Paasche and I love the brand. They have NEVER let me down. I have let me down! As they say, buy a decent brush and it is down to you. PRACTICE, PRATICE, PRACTICE, oh, did I mention practice? I have several sheets of styrene I use to practice on and several cheap models as well. I have a an ooollllddddd Monogram P-47 that I am always practicing on. Poor thing looks like some 70s hippy's bad acid trip now days. After 20+ yrs of airbrushing, I am still learning. You will never know it all. Just practice and never be afraid to try your ideas out.
I pretty much spray enamels still. I want to get into acrylics this year far more than I have in the past. BTW, I never mix acrylics and enamels on the same model. Last word, be religious about cleaning your brush. That makes such a HUGE difference between pleasure and those "what the hell?" moments.
Sorry to overwhelm you. Feel free to PM me if you want to learn more.
Dale

 

[Wurger]

so called "super glue" is prety weak.

No wonder, the kind of a glue isn't for sticking polystyrene.

 

[Airframes]

Yep, and it's a glue, not a cement. Glues basically work by the fluid/gel solidifying on both surfaces, creating a bond which can, if needed, be broken, whereas a cement, such as poly cement, works by chemical action/reaction, and actually welds the parts together.
If you need a good, strong, virtually permanent bond, use a cement. If you think that at some time in the future, a repair might be required, or an item removed for some reason (for example, a landing gear leg), then use a glue. The latter can normally be 'released' either by use of a de-bonder, or by physical manipulation, for example, gentle twisting and pulling, until the joint is broken and the part freed.

 

[Wurger]

Exactly...

 

[akkasoothy]

ok may have to get some cement , thanx alot, i use the super glue because it dries very quickly (basically in 20sec its strong) , and doest cement take awhile to dry? i used to have [lastic cement awhile back for warhammer models and some old starwars models but just remember that it took along time for the piecees to bond.

 

[Wurger]

To be honest each glue or cement need some time to be hardened fully. Usually it takes 12-24h. So don't believe the super glue gives a full strong joint in 20sec.
The more important thing is the way how it keeps two parts stuck together.

 

[Airframes]

Poly cement is best for the greatest percentage of plastic model building, with CA (superglue) being used for attaching metal parts, or resin parts, or where a very quick fix is needed, in order to hold a part in position, but then reinforced with poly cement. The big advantage of cement is that it allows time to position and adjust the part. Also, CA adhesives can, in time, cause a joint to fail.
If it takes 12 hours or more for a joint to fully set, then so be it - that's part of modelling, which, to use a phrase oft repeated here, is not a race!
Those who want an instant model can save time and effort by getting a pre-built and painted diecast or similar!

 

[Wurger]

That's true Terry. Can't say anymore.

 

[Crunch]

Yes mate, it's not a hobby for the impatient! I combat this by having a few builds going on at once, so I don't just do 3 mins work, then pack up while I'm waiing for glue/paint to dry to get to the next step.

Use the correct tool for the correct job. Model supplies exist because they are the best thing for the job, so use them as designed. From there, you can look for other 'non-modelling' tools and supplies that you can integrate into your builds, such as chalk pastels, plaster of paris, drills..... The list is endless!

I'm by far no pro, but I'm keen to learn and most of this comes from the guys here, and striving to improve. So if you get too stuck in your ways, you'll never improve. Even if you take on someone's methods/techniques/ideas and they don't work for you, you've learned that yourself and you can only improve from there!

 

[N4521U]

akka, the cement I prefer is the yellow container of Humbrol. The bond is amazing.

I do as others do probably, I have more than one going to keep my grubby paws off the one that's setting.

Good thread!

 

[meatloaf109]

O.k., I'll play along. Sure, that's why I have so many started....

 

[Rogi]

I use Testors, the red tube takes faster to dry than the Blue one, but the blue one is non-toxic

You'll have to wait on average 1 hours for the red and about 2-3 for the blue till its relatively hard, 12-24 as suggested for a full bond.

I have like 8 build going on at once, its the only way to pass the time

 

[akkasoothy]

far out, 8 builds going at once!! you must have about 1000 models.. havnt been modeling for about 55 days , maybe going to do some today.