Photo etched detail parts for the 1/350 Bismarck

[DerAdlerIstGelandet]

So I was looking for photo etched detail parts for the 1/350 Bismarck on the eduard website. Unfortunately they only have detail parts for the Revell and Tamiya kits.

Do any of you much more experienced builders know if:

1. Detail parts for other kits will work (i.e. they are likely interchangeable)?
2. Know where I can get detail parts for Academy’s kit?

 

[Wurger]

1. All depends on how these plastic details of the kits were moulded. Mostly it is possible to replace them with the PE parts being dedicated to the other manufactures' kits. Just a matter of fitting IMHO. In case of ships you need to pay your attention to the period of the service time. It is because of the modifications that were introduced to the real vessel during her life. For instance a ship launched in 1920 and servicing in 1943 could get the AA armament changed or added new one if didn't have it at the beginning of the war. Also the good example are the masts and the details of devices installed there eg ... the radar systems.

here you are the GMM3506 PE set for the Bismarck / Tirpitz dedicated to the Academy and Tamiya kits.

the source: NNT Modell | Bismarck / Tirpitz | purchase online

 

[DerAdlerIstGelandet]

Also, do photo etched parts require a special glue?

 

[DerAdlerIstGelandet]

1. All depends on how these plastic details of the kits were moulded. Mostly it is possible to replace them with the PE parts being dedicated to the other manufactures' kits. Just a matter of fitting IMHO. In case of ships you need to pay your attention to the period of the service time. It is because of the modifications that were introduced to the real vessel during her life. For instance a ship launched in 1920 and servicing in 1943 could get the AA armament changed or added new one if didn't have it at the beginning of the war. Also the good example are the masts and the details of devices installed there eg ... the radar systems.

here you are the GMM3506 PE set for the Bismarck / Tirpitz dedicated to the Academy and Tamiya kits.

View attachment 737592
the source: NNT Modell | Bismarck / Tirpitz | purchase online

Thanks, I can have them shipped to my mom in Germany.

 

[Wurger]

 

[A4K]

Superglue (Cyaniacrylate) is best IMO Chris. Tube type dispensed onto a bit of cardboard or papertowel, then applied to the PE part by toothpick.
PVA (White woodworking glue) is also good, but in both cases you will need to sand the parts to be attached for good adhesion.

 

[DerAdlerIstGelandet]

Thank you sir.

 

[A4K]

No worries Chris. I should clarify too, the PVA is good for larger pieces that can be clamped in place, as it takes alot longer to dry. For smaller or sticking out pieces, stick with the Superglue. (No pun intended! )

 

[Crimea_River]

CA glue comes in a gel, which in my opinion is nicer to use. It doesn't run under your finger nail like the thin sh!t and has a longer work time.

 

[Vic Balshaw]

Yep, it's good stuff. I usually plop a bit on some plastic and use a toothpick to apply and a cotton bud to wipe excess.

 

[Airframes]

Note that "thin shit" is a modelling technical term, used mainly by Canadian modellers ................

 

[DerAdlerIstGelandet]

Next question, and I will just add it here…

I got a few fingerprint smudges of glue on a model. What is the best way to remove this prior to painting without damaging the model or detail?

 

[Wurger]

A liquid called Debonder. It is a CA thinner/remover.

 

[Crimea_River]

Chris if you are talking about CA then yes the debonder will remove it but be careful as it may eventually soften the plastic too. Try it on a piece of sprue to test the reaction.

If you are talking about styrene cement then I'm afraid the only way to remove a finger print is to sand and file the area smooth and apply filler or primer, the repeat until the print disappears.

 

[DerAdlerIstGelandet]

Yeah, its regular model cement.

 

[Wurger]

So sanding is the only way for removing of such traces as Andy said.

Regarding the Debonder ... Andy is right about the melting/damaging of the plastic. But it happens to the Debonders that aren't dedicated to modellers mostly. I have been using the Debonder P ( the orginal Czech liquid ) and the Wamod one for ages. These has never damaged the polystyrene.

 

[Airframes]

Agree re the sanding to remove the poly cement marks. Also, if the damage is only light, it may polish out using "T Cut" or equivalent car body colour restorer, which can also be used to clean and polish a sanded area, giving a smooth surface like new.

 

[DerAdlerIstGelandet]

Thanks everyone