Primer question

[al49]

Vinegar and slightly sanding sound very good, specially for metal landing gear, I will try them next time.
Many thanks for all feedback.
Alberto

 

[mikewint]

You may also need to switch to a metal primer. these are different than primers used on on non-metal surfaces. Don't know about Italy but hardware/paint stores shoud carry metal primers

 

[al49]

Thanks,
but the Tamiya I mentioned above is stated to be for plastic and metal!
When I was used to do 90 mm figurines, I used hardware primers for them and they worked well. But the difference is that these primers, at least those I know, are too thick to be used finely engraved plastic models.
In any case it's a good idea and I should try again, next time I have to prime p.e. or other metal parts and use the Tam on plastic only.
Alberto

 

[marcus4hire]

Hope I don't hijack the thread that's going on but I have a related question.

I have considered priming for the exact reasons stated above. But I had also wanted to pre-shade panel lines. If I do this will the primer cover up pre-shading and render it ineffective? Or can I preshade over the primer (though I might have trouble picking out the panel lines? Advice and insight always appreciated!

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Marcus, I think you may find the answer to your question in this thread here. http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/we...ar-overall-use-modeling-techniques-14378.html If not, if you lightly sand the surface with 1500 grit paper and then put a light coat of primer down, sanding it when you are done to get better adhesion I don't think you will eliminate the detail to much but make sure you keep your primer thin. Hope this helps.

 

[robtmelvin]

Hi, Aaron. I'm not too far from you, Harlan, Kentucky, here. While I've only recently started building planes, I've been back to modeling now for a couple of years, doing ships until very recently. Doing those, where priming the hulls was pretty much essential since I built full hull and most kits seem to come split hull, I discovered Alclad II primer. Comes in grey, white and black. Airbrush ready and drys very quickly. Lays down a nice primer coat that shows up any defects very well. Just from my personal perspective, whether or not I prime depends on several things: 1) how many "boo-boos" am I trying to hide; 2) now much detail will be lost by multiple coats of paint; 3) how does the fit look unpainted; and, 4) how big a kit am I painting. Using my approach, which may or may not be valid, I'd be more inclined to prime something like a 1/48 B-17 which has a lot of surface area to be painted. Seems to me like that would give you more surface for paint adhesion to be an issue on. For what its worth.

Bob

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Those seem to be excellent guidelines for priming Rob. Thank you for the input sir and you are not far away are you?

 

[robtmelvin]

Aaron, no we aren't far away from each other at all. My wife and I do get over to Abingdon from time to time. Maybe we could get together for a cup of coffee sometime and talk about hour mutual hobby. Also, are you aware of the Smokey Mountain Modelers Mini-Con coming up on March 26? Its at the Knoxville Civic Coliseum from 9:00 to 5:00. If you are interested in going, let me know if you want and maybe we can hook up. Its nice to know there are some fellow modelers in this general area. A while back I tried to stir up some interest in putting together a scale modeling club over here, but there just wasn't enough interest to ever get it off the ground.

Bob

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

If it is on a Saturday I am afraid I will be working on a 1/1 scale model of a 1986 El Camino. I have until the end of the month to get it finished. That's the reason I have not been working on models here at the house. I would love to go though but I have to get this car done. Sorry.