Primer question

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

I was just wondering and have noticed a few of you guys are using primer. Is this needed to make the paint adhere better and if so, what type of primer is used? I'm getting ready to do the fuselage on my A-20 and am just curious and trying to keep from messing it up. I do realize that it is great for showing imperfections in the surface but I could use a flat color for that. Thank you in advance.

 

[Airframes]

Most people using primer are then spraying acrylics, which benefits from an enamel-type primer first. Although not 100% required if using enamel paints, a primer can be useful to achieve an even-coloured, smooth surface to work with.
In this instance, a matt, or semi-matt light grey enamel, applied in an even, thin coat, works very well.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

So a light ghost gray will work then?

 

[Airframes]

Yep, should be fine Aaron. It'll also show any minor imperfections at joints, seams etc, which can then be rectified.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

That was the main reason for asking this question, I didn't know if I could use what I had or if I needed to purchase some actual primer. It works the same way on the cars, you do the welding and filling until your sick of it and then you prime it when you think your done just to find you've got more to do. Thank you very much Terry for your time.

 

[al49]

Not to promote a brand, but I use Tam...a Fine Surface Primer and it works very well not only because it helps find surface imperfections but also improves adhesion of acrylic paints.
Alberto

 

[Crimea_River]

Same here. Ever since I pulled acrylic paint off with my masks I've used a primer, even if using enamels.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Thank you very much for the info on the primer Alberto and Andy.The majority of what I have paint wise is enamel, with the exception of the metalizers which are lacquer. I have sanded the surface with 1500 grit paper so I hope this will be sufficient. The only taping I will have to do is for the D-Day stripes. Other than that it should be cut and dried but I will keep the primer in mind just in case I need it cause you never know. Again, thanks guys.

 

[B-17engineer]

You may want to use a piece of felt or newspaper to polish it up, better safe than sorry!

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

And what are we polishing H?

 

[B-17engineer]

The aircraft.........

Wojtek taught me!

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

Why are we polishing it, it's olive drab and air mobility command gray?

 

[B-17engineer]

I'm not good at explaining so......

Q: My paint job went okay, but I have some bumps and wrinkles. Is there anything I can do to improve my painted surface?
A: If the surface has very big bumps or wrinkles (even an ugly scar), it might be a good (yet painful) idea to repeat the painting process again. You can sand and/or strip off the existing paint and re-do the paint work. I go through the repeating process so often, now I just expect my first painting attempt to have flaws. ^_^

If the paint job came out okay with minor flaws, of course, we can always improve on that. The best way I found is to polish these flaws out with polishing cloths. I recommend to use various polishing cloths to do the job, but you can also do this by using similar high grade sand paper.

The polishing cloth has a soft padded backing and it allows you to sand and polish gently. Otherwise, it is just same as the regular sand paper. If you are looking for polishing cloths, the LMG polishing kit (micro-mesh) might be your answer. It has everything you need to do the task; it comes with various polishing cloths, polishing compound, swirl remover, and a cotton towel.

The polishing process is a time consuming work and you should not hurry yourself while performing it. This process can be used to repair minor paint mistakes. The process is to start out with a normal grade polishing cloth (use a wooden block or similar to provide a flat polishing surface) and switch to a higher grade polishing cloth as you polish your way up.

Please refer the picture below to see how the polishing process works. I recommend that you do this wet to minimize scarring. Finally, be sure not to use any polishing compound/wax if you are going to apply decal or clear coat later.

The Modeling Guide: Painting Techniques

Doesn't have to be a NMF just to get a good painting surface. I do it before painting every time with a piece of felt.

 

[mikewint]

ABW, All I spray is acrylics and I have never primed. Though in a sense I quess painting a second time makes the first a primer. I also use a nail file block with four different grits: filing, shaping, smoothing and polishing to take care of any imperfections.
as to pulling acrylics off of a surface I've found that while acrylics dry quickly they take a day or more to "cure" so if you're in a hurry the uncured paint can be pulled off

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

I'm not good at explaining so......



The Modeling Guide: Painting Techniques

Doesn't have to be a NMF just to get a good painting surface. I do it before painting every time with a piece of felt.[/QUOTE

That makes sense. I thought you may have thought that I was putting metalizer on the model in which case I would probably polish it. I do have some 3,000 grit sand pads though that will probably work pretty good for what you have explained. And thank you for explaining, sometimes I'm a little dense.

ABW, All I spray is acrylics and I have never primed. Though in a sense I quess painting a second time makes the first a primer. I also use a nail file block with four different grits: filing, shaping, smoothing and polishing to take care of any imperfections.
as to pulling acrylics off of a surface I've found that while acrylics dry quickly they take a day or more to "cure" so if you're in a hurry the uncured paint can be pulled off

Thank you Mike. I have found in the automotive paint process if you pull the tape before the paint dries you are less likely to pull it off. Unless of course your tape pulls the paint that it is on top of in which case we did not pre-prep the surface properly before we laid that coat of paint on. If the acrylics won't stick to the sanded plastic surface then it will need to be primed for adhesion purposes.

 

[mikewint]

ABW, I think you posted that you were using enamels so you have much more knowledge about that than I. I stick to acrylics and I think they do a nice job and you don't have the clean up or solvents to deal with. Plus I've never had a problem with adhesion once cured.

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

 

[al49]

Hi,
I have a question on priming myself.
What do you use to prime metal parts like p.e. or brass, i.e. landing gears?
I use the Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, but it peel-of quite easily even if a wash parts with trichloroethylene before priming.
Many thanks
Alberto

 

[Aaron Brooks Wolters]

You may have to sand or scuff the surface of the parts to get the primer to adhere better but I'm not sure that this is all of the problem, it may be worth a try though.

 

[Airframes]

I'd agree there. It's also useful to dip the parts in vinegar, then wash and dry them, before annealing by gently bending as required. The vinegar removes the remaining coatings, if any, and with a lightly sanded surface, the primer should adhere a lot better.