Lucky13
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What do you use?
What do you recommend?
The pic is just is only to get your attention!
What do you recommend?
The pic is just is only to get your attention!
Soldering Irons....?
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Lucky13
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Actually the PE parts aren't for soldering but for gluing. Therefore I wouldn't recommend that way of working with the kind of parts. Unless these are of very large scale and made of quite thick plate.
Personally , for soldering copper wire and other pieces or the electronic systems I use a solder gun with a power switch 45W/75W like the one below.
Personally , for soldering copper wire and other pieces or the electronic systems I use a solder gun with a power switch 45W/75W like the one below.
fubar57
General
All I know about soldering irons, and I'm talking about this kind we used in shop during the '70s....
....is that, if you pick up the wrong end at the wrong time, you put it down a lot faster than when you picked it up
I would add to that, dont check if solder is hot, with your finger, if it is on a refractory brick. It remains molten for a long, long time. Yes I did that, a long time ago and can still feel the pain.
Donivanp
Captain
I've not tried soldering my PE to the plastic. Humm maybe that's why I have so much problem making it stick. Hot metal and plastic, what could go wrong?
Donivanp
Captain
Used something like that backnin the 70's. Had a cartridge in the tip that would set of a charge and get white hot in seconds. Scary.
special ed
1st Sergeant
- 4,860
- May 13, 2018
This looks like the one inherited from my dad and I'm 80. I use it to impress the young empty heads.
special ed
1st Sergeant
- 4,860
- May 13, 2018
By the way, please define PE for an old plastic modeler. All this new stuff is a mystery.
Donivanp
Captain
special ed
1st Sergeant
- 4,860
- May 13, 2018
How are the PE parts used? As mostly interior detail work?
Donivanp
Captain
They are detail add on thin brass parts. Interior and exterior such as instrument panels, seat belts, bomb bay enhancements etc....
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Lucky13
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Lucky13
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Lucky13
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special ed
1st Sergeant
- 4,860
- May 13, 2018
NO. I'm NOT starting again. Maybe when they put me in the rest home. Very impressive stuff now days. My problem in the 60s & 70s was display and dusting. I built a shelf with glass shelves and used a darkroom negative brush to keep the dust off. The old rub-n-buff did a great job for NMF but could not be handled without gloves. They could tarnish just in the atmosphere. Just a reminiscence.
for PE work it really does no matter what type of tool you will use - overheating will cost you just burned tips of fingers - mostly this is matter of preference. Soldering station and iron will let you make more precision work and use wide selection of tips. If you are going to play with electronics this is different story - tool you are using become critical - in such case i'm recommending products of Ersa, Weller or Metcalf - probably last one is giving best cost/effect ratio.
fastmongrel
1st Sergeant
Antex my dad used their irons and I use them. They are British made unlike most Chinesium irons.
