Tamyia white putty

[Pierceb]

How long should I let the putty dry before sanding. The tube does not give a drying time.

 

[Airframes]

I haven't used the stuff, but the simple answer would be 'until it's hard'.
A specific curing time can't be given, as it would depend on the weight and depth of the putty, and the ambient temperature and humidity. Most two-part, epoxy putties, such as 'Milliput' for example, may be relatively hard within three or four hours, but not fully cured until after 24 hours or more. A softer, one part putty such as the Tamiya product should harden quicker, but again, I'd leave it at least 24 hours before attempting any sanding, and then test a small area first.

 

[Wurger]

I agree with the post above. Usually I wait one or three days for full hardening of the putty. The time depends on how thick the layer of the putty is.

 

[mikewint]

With all the above. Generally I use small thin amounts so even 12 hours (overnight) works. If you have an auto parts store handy go to the body repair section and look for "GLAZING PUTTY" it is basically VERY thick paint and a giant tube is less than the tiny hobby brand tubes.

 

[fubar57]

Agree with Mr. Wint. I use Bondo Spot and Glazing Putty. It's a large tube and I've had it for more than five years. If you've seen my Hobbycraft builds you will know I use a ton of it. As for cure time, I spread it thin and sand in an hour. Paint some silver on the seam to see if I missed any spots and repeat as needed.

Geo

 

[Crimea_River]

One of the things that amazes me about Tamiya is how they get away with writing all over their products completely in Japanese without a word of English and make it past our pedantic labeling standards in Kanader. Every other product in Canada must have both English and French on the label and here we have Tamiya paints and other products on our shelves with neither!

 

[Pierceb]

This is the first time I use the white putty and thought it would have cured faster. In there defense, my practice piece was 2 pieces of spru glued side by side so the there was big gap down the center. I think I will try thinning with thinner for seam removal. I can't find Mr surface anywhere and I'm waiting for Scalehobbyist.com: Model airplanes, ships, military vehicles and modeling supplies to get it in. It seem to be the cheapest place to get

 

[fubar57]

If the gap is large(ish), it would be better to narrow the gap first or you would be pushing the putty inside the model. I use various thicknesses of plastic card stock glued to one or both sides, Use just enough so that it doesn't interfere with the fit. You can then add putty. If Crimea_River pops back in, he can provide a better method of removing the excess putty other than sanding. I've used it, it works great and you don't lose a lot of surface detail as you would with sanding. A lot of people prefer gap filling super glue to fill gaps though I am hit or miss with this method.

Geo

 

[Hamiltonian]

From experience, definitely leave Tamiya white putty at least 24 hours, even when used in a thin layer. I got impatient once and tried to sand after 12 hours in a warm, dry room - the result was a chewed surface, clogged sandpaper, and a restart from scratch.

 

[Rogi]

Tamiya putty is like the crack of Putty for me lol I use it crazily and love the stuff

White putty drys in 12 hours (thin coat), 24 hours will be a thicker coat. I leave it for 14-16 hours to have a hard bond (like apply it during the night and then sand in the morning after breakfast). This is of course dependant on region, test it out first on some test strips of plastic and check for yourself in the summer I can dry it in 10 hours vs the winter which takes 14 to 16.

I've stopped using white putty, and started using their light curing putty, if you live in an area with a lot of sunlight (or have access to artificial UV light) it drys in 5 to 30 minutes and is worth the wopping cost also, you don't need to use a lot to get a great result, the tube I have from last year is still going strong, while the white putty I've used up about 3-4 tubes in the same space of time.

 

[Crimea_River]

If Crimea_River pops back in, he can provide a better method of removing the excess putty other than sanding. I've used it, it works great and you don't lose a lot of surface detail as you would with sanding.

Thanks for the curtain call. Here's what Geo is talking about. Works great!

filling without sanding

 

[mikewint]

Double Dam, that is REALLY cool. I've always sanded the putty and hit areas I did not want sanded. On my list for the next model. I'd be a bit cautious with the nail polish remover as name brands tend to add softening oils. Denatured alcohol (Ethyl + methyl) would not suffer from the same problem. Just heed the warning WELL VENTILATED as those fumes are flamable and heavier than air

 

[Crimea_River]

Yeah, that's the one trick with this method. Do not keep rubbing the Cutex all over the plastic as the acetone will eventually eat it and will ruin the smooth surface. However, I do use the Cutex and it is fairly forgiving, allowing plenty of opportunity to remove the putty before affecting the plastic.

 

[mikewint]

Andy, again, triple thanks that ranks along with microsol/set. I will try this on the next model that needs filling

 

[Crimea_River]

Cheers Mike.

 

[Augsburg Eagle]

Thanks for the curtain call. Here's what Geo is talking about. Works great!
filling without sanding

In a model magazine I just read a similar description, but with Tamiya White Putty and Tamiya thinner. But the same method.

 

[Zippythehog]

Blew my mind. Thanks Andy!