Crimea_River
Marshal
Beauty!
1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 "Black One"
- Thread starter JKim
- Start date
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Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
This is spectacular! And thanks for the info on the belts!
Great work so far John!
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Nice work John! I do like those HGW fabric belts.
Crimea_River
Marshal
It occurs to me that it would not be hard to make and print those belts onto the right paper at home. Just the buckles would have to be done somehow.
- Thread starter
- #86
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Yup. The tricky part would be to find the right material. The stuff that HGW uses is much stronger than paper... check out the weave texture on the back of the stuff in the crumpled pic. MDC has 1/32 buckle hardware in their Dora cockpit and Eduard makes the buckles in the HGW harness set so I'm sure you could source the buckles.
I forgot to post this picture of the finished shoulder belts laid onto the seat. I will finalize the length of the should belts once the rear deck is mounted.
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- Thread starter
- #87
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Work is progressing on the Dora cockpit but I only have this one picture to show for it. The painting for the cockpit tub and sidewalls is about 75% complete. Although the area behind the seat rails will not be seen, it's hard to resist painting those areas. The vertical wall at the front will most likely be obscured by the instrument panel and foot pedals. Don't worry about the small paint chips... that is the result of dryfitting the sidewalls to the cockpit tub and won't be visible when the the cockpit is assembled. I'll finish picking out the details with a brush and then start the weathering process: gloss coat, panel wash, flat coat, chipping and dry pigments.
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agreed...
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks for the detailed shots. If it does not take too much time I am still learning about detailing cockpits. Could you expand on your process? Specifically the materials used and how you apply them? Panel washes, powders etc?
Crimea_River
Marshal
Proceeding nicely.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Excellent detail work John.
I really like the HGW belts, having used some on a 1/32nd Spitfire recently. I've saved the 'sheet' material to make other belts. and I think I might have sourced the material they are made from.
It's a microfibre fabric, used in the 'interlining' of some clothing, such as collars etc. So far, I've seen it in white, and a dark blue/grey colour, but the white should accept a water colour or thinned acrylic paint, and the stitching and other detail can be drawn in using a drafting pen.
Many years ago, long before the advent of PE buckles and fabric belts, I did a similar thing, using the fabric from roller blinds, which is similar, but 'heavier' than the fabric used for HGW belts. It was fine for 1/24th scale, and similar scale car models, although just a touch too 'heavy' for 1/32nd scale aircraft.
I really like the HGW belts, having used some on a 1/32nd Spitfire recently. I've saved the 'sheet' material to make other belts. and I think I might have sourced the material they are made from.
It's a microfibre fabric, used in the 'interlining' of some clothing, such as collars etc. So far, I've seen it in white, and a dark blue/grey colour, but the white should accept a water colour or thinned acrylic paint, and the stitching and other detail can be drawn in using a drafting pen.
Many years ago, long before the advent of PE buckles and fabric belts, I did a similar thing, using the fabric from roller blinds, which is similar, but 'heavier' than the fabric used for HGW belts. It was fine for 1/24th scale, and similar scale car models, although just a touch too 'heavy' for 1/32nd scale aircraft.
- Thread starter
- #93
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Back to the Dora. After my last step, I tried to finish up the painting of the cockpit parts. I'm more of a direct paint kind of guy and prefer to paint the details individually instead of using the drybrushing technique. The cockpit tub and sidewalls are given a light coat of Alclad Aqua Gloss to help secure the paint and to facilitate the next step... a pastel wash.
Depending on the colors of the painted surfaces I'm working with, I'll mix up a small batch of dark wash. Since the cockpit is a very dark grey, I chose black for my wash. I use a piece of artist pastel chalk and scrape some dust from the chalk into a small container. A small amount of water is added and a drop of dishwashing soap to ease the surface tension of the water and allow easier mixing. This dark liquid is brush liberally over all of the detail that I want to highlight. After the liquid is dry, I use small, slightly moistened bits of paper towel to wipe off the wash. Only the wash in the depressed areas is left behind, which serves to accentuate the raised surfaces. The difference in this example is not very striking since the base color is so dark.
The three major cockpit components have been given a wash and you can barely tell. Hopefully the wash will show up better once the flat coat is applied as a flat coat will lighten any finish. Additional instrument decals have been punched out and applied to the side panels and the small panel in the front.
The sidewalls are put into place one at a time to get a more complete picture of the painted cockpit. It's good to record it now because it will eventually star disappearing when the other components are put into place.
All the wiping with a paper towel results in a lot of stray fibers and strands. These need to carefully removed before moving on to the next step... a flat coat to seal the wash.
Depending on the colors of the painted surfaces I'm working with, I'll mix up a small batch of dark wash. Since the cockpit is a very dark grey, I chose black for my wash. I use a piece of artist pastel chalk and scrape some dust from the chalk into a small container. A small amount of water is added and a drop of dishwashing soap to ease the surface tension of the water and allow easier mixing. This dark liquid is brush liberally over all of the detail that I want to highlight. After the liquid is dry, I use small, slightly moistened bits of paper towel to wipe off the wash. Only the wash in the depressed areas is left behind, which serves to accentuate the raised surfaces. The difference in this example is not very striking since the base color is so dark.
The three major cockpit components have been given a wash and you can barely tell. Hopefully the wash will show up better once the flat coat is applied as a flat coat will lighten any finish. Additional instrument decals have been punched out and applied to the side panels and the small panel in the front.
The sidewalls are put into place one at a time to get a more complete picture of the painted cockpit. It's good to record it now because it will eventually star disappearing when the other components are put into place.
All the wiping with a paper towel results in a lot of stray fibers and strands. These need to carefully removed before moving on to the next step... a flat coat to seal the wash.
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- Thread starter
- #94
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Ok... let's keep going on the Dora cockpit. After the panel wash, I spray the tub and sidewalls with a flat coat.
Again, I place the sidewalls onto the cockpit tub one at a time to admire the cockpit details.
[imagehttp://imgur.com/Hf5faqa.jpg[/img]
Now I'm curious HOW MUCH of the details are going to disappear on me. I have a pretty good idea but let's take a look shall we? First, we place the foot pedal hangers on the small roof piece. (Note to self: drybrushing silver onto the foot pedals was a fail... please recoat with RLM66!)
[imagehttp://imgur.com/0rcIODj.jpg[/img]
Now place the roof piece onto the cockpit tub and sidewalls. As you can see, almost all of that forward section is hidden by the roof and pedals.
Things get more crowded (and obscured) with the placement of the lower instrument panel.
Ok... I'm really curious now. I decide to place the cockpit tub into the fuselage. First, the cockpit tub is taped together including the rear decking.
The cockpit is then placed into the fuselage from the bottom and stuck into place with tape. The gun cowling and instrument panel hood are placed on top. Good news is that, even with the tape holding it together, the cockpit tub seems to fit into the fuselage pretty well. Bad news... much of the cockpit will be very hard to see, even with the canopy open due to the tight cockpit opening and the angle of the sidewalls.
Again, I place the sidewalls onto the cockpit tub one at a time to admire the cockpit details.
[imagehttp://imgur.com/Hf5faqa.jpg[/img]
Now I'm curious HOW MUCH of the details are going to disappear on me. I have a pretty good idea but let's take a look shall we? First, we place the foot pedal hangers on the small roof piece. (Note to self: drybrushing silver onto the foot pedals was a fail... please recoat with RLM66!)
[imagehttp://imgur.com/0rcIODj.jpg[/img]
Now place the roof piece onto the cockpit tub and sidewalls. As you can see, almost all of that forward section is hidden by the roof and pedals.
Things get more crowded (and obscured) with the placement of the lower instrument panel.
Ok... I'm really curious now. I decide to place the cockpit tub into the fuselage. First, the cockpit tub is taped together including the rear decking.
The cockpit is then placed into the fuselage from the bottom and stuck into place with tape. The gun cowling and instrument panel hood are placed on top. Good news is that, even with the tape holding it together, the cockpit tub seems to fit into the fuselage pretty well. Bad news... much of the cockpit will be very hard to see, even with the canopy open due to the tight cockpit opening and the angle of the sidewalls.
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- Thread starter
- #96
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
- Thread starter
- #97
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
I received a couple new gadgets yesterday in the post. One of them was needed to get on with the Dora cockpit. The other... well, it was just something that I wanted to have! :giggles:
The upper instrument panel on the Dora features dials that are bigger than the 2mm upper limit of my present punch/die set. This isn't the only time that I've wished for some bigger punch sizes so I bit the bullet and ordered this set directly from RP Toolz in Hungary. My smaller set is also from RP Toolz. Highly recommended but its not the cheapest punch set around. The metallic thing is an interesting circle cutter. I have a Olfa compass cutter, which is helpful for making circular masks but it can't make circles smaller than around 1 inch. This Thinnerline cutter is supposed to be able to cut circles as small as a few millimeters! It is essentially what it appears to be... a big ball bearing with a cutting apparatus attached to the middle barrel.
Setting aside the Thinnerline circle cutter for now, I take a closer look at the RP Toolz punch set. This set features punch sizes from 2mm to 4.5 mm in 2mm increments. It includes a nifty little hammer.
Using the appropriately sized tool, I punch out the big artificial horizon instrument decal.
This decal is placed into the correct instrument bezel. Microsol is used to force the decal to settle into the circular recess.
This is what the upper instrument panel looks like with all of the dial decals applied.
The panel is given a flat coat to even out the handpainted bezels. At this point, my usual routine is put in drops of Alclad Aqua Gloss (or Future) into the dial faces to simulate the glass lenses. Since these dials are so big, I thought I'd try something different and punch out glass lenses from clear acetate sheeting.
The results are difficult to discern from photos unless I tilt the panel to catch the glare off the lenses.
Here is what the instrument panel will look like nestled under the hood. I still need to figure out how the Revi 16B gun sight will fit.
The upper instrument panel on the Dora features dials that are bigger than the 2mm upper limit of my present punch/die set. This isn't the only time that I've wished for some bigger punch sizes so I bit the bullet and ordered this set directly from RP Toolz in Hungary. My smaller set is also from RP Toolz. Highly recommended but its not the cheapest punch set around. The metallic thing is an interesting circle cutter. I have a Olfa compass cutter, which is helpful for making circular masks but it can't make circles smaller than around 1 inch. This Thinnerline cutter is supposed to be able to cut circles as small as a few millimeters! It is essentially what it appears to be... a big ball bearing with a cutting apparatus attached to the middle barrel.
Setting aside the Thinnerline circle cutter for now, I take a closer look at the RP Toolz punch set. This set features punch sizes from 2mm to 4.5 mm in 2mm increments. It includes a nifty little hammer.
Using the appropriately sized tool, I punch out the big artificial horizon instrument decal.
This decal is placed into the correct instrument bezel. Microsol is used to force the decal to settle into the circular recess.
This is what the upper instrument panel looks like with all of the dial decals applied.
The panel is given a flat coat to even out the handpainted bezels. At this point, my usual routine is put in drops of Alclad Aqua Gloss (or Future) into the dial faces to simulate the glass lenses. Since these dials are so big, I thought I'd try something different and punch out glass lenses from clear acetate sheeting.
The results are difficult to discern from photos unless I tilt the panel to catch the glare off the lenses.
Here is what the instrument panel will look like nestled under the hood. I still need to figure out how the Revi 16B gun sight will fit.
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Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
I actually ordered the Thinnerline cutter myself, has not arrived yet but am looking forward to it, mostly for wheel masks. The punch set looks great, I saw a video that ISM did where they used it to actually create bezels as well as punch the decals out. Apparently those buggers are sharp so watch yourself!
- Thread starter
- #99
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
I was waffling on ordering the Thinnerline from China due to the high shipping, so when someone at the Hyperscale forums listed a domestic retailer, I jumped on it. Saved about $20 in shipping and it arrived in three days.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Good stuff John.
