SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
With all, about your job and fishing ...
Saludos
Saludos
1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 "Black One"
- Thread starter JKim
- Start date
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Tony Hill
Tech Sergeant
Looking forward to this one! I've always preferred the look of the Dora.
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Excellent work! Love the circle cutter. I do have a Cricut Explore Air and while it is very capable, it cannot handle sheets much smaller than 4" X 6" you can stick a smaller sheet on the tacky carrier sheet. But that said I would think your tool would be handy to just wip out, work, and put away.
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Good work John, the ladder will be a nice touch.
- Thread starter
- #165
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks guys!...It's time to fill the small gaps on the bottom wing panels.
There are different ways to fill without sanding. Most involve using putty and a liquid that can thin the putty. Water is the most benign liquid so I favor using Milliput, which is a two-part epoxy that can be sculpted with water before curing. I've prepared a small blob of White Milliput, which is the finest grade.
Using the tip of a toothpick, I work the putty into the seams. I "roll" the toothpick, which forces the putty material into the crack.
I take a small piece of folded paper towel moistened with water and I simply wipe off the excess putty. The putty in the seam remains.
Moving to the next line of putty, I am showing an intermediate step. To make it easier to remove the excess, I use a paint brush tipped with water to soften and loosen the larger blobs of excess putty.
The two lines have been filled. I want the panel lines to remain but they are no longer bottomless cracks, hopefully of similar depth to the other recessed panel lines. Note the putty in the small circular rivets. This and other unwanted putty is removed using the tip of a needle.
I've decided to fill all four seams using Milliput. This is a great way to fix small seams or fill gaps without destroying the surrounding detail with sanding.
While puttying the other side, I ran into a little problem. As I was applying the putty, I could feel the panel moving up and down... it had not been fully secured with glue. Putty is not a good adhesive and I knew I had to secure the panel down now or be stuck with a forever loose panel. I wiped off as much of the putty that I had previously applied.
Then I seeped Tamiya Extra Thin glue into the gaps. Another boo-boo... excess glue has leaked onto the wing. The worst thing to do at this point is to try and wipe off the excess glue. Best to just STOP and set this aside, giving the glue plenty of time to evaporate and dry. With luck, no damage should occur.
I pick up the work the following day. I've had to do some sanding and re-scribing to clean up the joint but it looks ok. The row of circular rivets along the front edge of the panel has been removed by sanding and I'll have to replace them.
The panel is given a quick spray of Mr Surfacer 1000 to check the putty work. I'll have to gently scribe along the filled lines to deepen them a little bit.
Next... I'm going start painting the rear engine plug. I've added some additional hoses/tubing and have drilled the bulkheads to accept more.
There are different ways to fill without sanding. Most involve using putty and a liquid that can thin the putty. Water is the most benign liquid so I favor using Milliput, which is a two-part epoxy that can be sculpted with water before curing. I've prepared a small blob of White Milliput, which is the finest grade.
Using the tip of a toothpick, I work the putty into the seams. I "roll" the toothpick, which forces the putty material into the crack.
I take a small piece of folded paper towel moistened with water and I simply wipe off the excess putty. The putty in the seam remains.
Moving to the next line of putty, I am showing an intermediate step. To make it easier to remove the excess, I use a paint brush tipped with water to soften and loosen the larger blobs of excess putty.
The two lines have been filled. I want the panel lines to remain but they are no longer bottomless cracks, hopefully of similar depth to the other recessed panel lines. Note the putty in the small circular rivets. This and other unwanted putty is removed using the tip of a needle.
I've decided to fill all four seams using Milliput. This is a great way to fix small seams or fill gaps without destroying the surrounding detail with sanding.
While puttying the other side, I ran into a little problem. As I was applying the putty, I could feel the panel moving up and down... it had not been fully secured with glue. Putty is not a good adhesive and I knew I had to secure the panel down now or be stuck with a forever loose panel. I wiped off as much of the putty that I had previously applied.
Then I seeped Tamiya Extra Thin glue into the gaps. Another boo-boo... excess glue has leaked onto the wing. The worst thing to do at this point is to try and wipe off the excess glue. Best to just STOP and set this aside, giving the glue plenty of time to evaporate and dry. With luck, no damage should occur.
I pick up the work the following day. I've had to do some sanding and re-scribing to clean up the joint but it looks ok. The row of circular rivets along the front edge of the panel has been removed by sanding and I'll have to replace them.
The panel is given a quick spray of Mr Surfacer 1000 to check the putty work. I'll have to gently scribe along the filled lines to deepen them a little bit.
Next... I'm going start painting the rear engine plug. I've added some additional hoses/tubing and have drilled the bulkheads to accept more.
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Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Good stuff John. Milliput is my favourite filler - been using it for over 40 years now, although I use the 'Standard' type, as I find it better to work with.
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
It has been a very interesting class to solve the wide panel lines 
.
Very simple without risking to lose details with the sanding.
Well done John, ... now comes the interesting details with the rear engine plug, ... I'm pending, greetings.
.Very simple without risking to lose details with the sanding.
Well done John, ... now comes the interesting details with the rear engine plug, ... I'm pending, greetings.
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Nice repair work John. I haven't used Milliput before for one reason or another. Does it scribe OK without flaking, etc? Also, what did you use to replace the rivets on the front edge - a hypodermic needle or something?
- Thread starter
- #170
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks guys!
I use the White (Superfine) Milliput and it dries very hard and can be scribed over, to a certain extent. No problem on bigger areas but will crumble on the smaller fill areas. Those rivets have not been replaced yet but I use a jeweler's beading tool that I got on EBay... very useful.
I use the White (Superfine) Milliput and it dries very hard and can be scribed over, to a certain extent. No problem on bigger areas but will crumble on the smaller fill areas. Those rivets have not been replaced yet but I use a jeweler's beading tool that I got on EBay... very useful.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I found that the Milliput Fine (white) will crumble or flake when 'worked' on fine areas (it's designed for porcelain repair work), which is exactly why I use the Standard type. It can be drilled, tapped, engraved, carved and moulded very easily.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Nice work going on there John.
Looks great so far John!
Doing good John.
Tony Hill
Tech Sergeant
Great job.
- Thread starter
- #176
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks for checking in! Not much time to do work on the Dora this week. I've managed to paint the main components of the engine plug.
A few of the sub-components have been glued together.
I'm still in the process of figuring out where to add wires to represent the mess of tubing and hoses in this area. You can see the holes in the bulkhead where I'll be adding more wiring after the engine plug has been further assembled.
A view from the other side.
Added an array of wiring to the starboard ammo chute bulkhead. You won't be able to see most of this wiring directly but hopefully I'm building up a sort of "density" with this added wiring to make this area look suitably cramped with hoses and tubes.
Figuring out how the wiring fits with the coolant tank in place...
... and then fitting the bulkhead onto the floor to make sure that the wire is not blocking any of the parts and that the wire ends aren't obviously visible.
I've added different gauges of wiring including 0.015", 0.020" and 0.030" lead wire. I also used some electric guitar string. Each length of wire was fitted individually, glued into place and then painted before adding the next wire. At this point, I'm ready to start cobbling together the sub-components of the rear engine plug together.
Like the cockpit, the view into this area through the wheel wells will be limited. This photo is probably representative of the likely angle. As you can see, there are some leftover holes in the forward bulkhead that I can utilize to add some last few pieces of wiring. I'll do this after I see how this piece fits into the fuselage.
A few of the sub-components have been glued together.
I'm still in the process of figuring out where to add wires to represent the mess of tubing and hoses in this area. You can see the holes in the bulkhead where I'll be adding more wiring after the engine plug has been further assembled.
A view from the other side.
Added an array of wiring to the starboard ammo chute bulkhead. You won't be able to see most of this wiring directly but hopefully I'm building up a sort of "density" with this added wiring to make this area look suitably cramped with hoses and tubes.
Figuring out how the wiring fits with the coolant tank in place...
... and then fitting the bulkhead onto the floor to make sure that the wire is not blocking any of the parts and that the wire ends aren't obviously visible.
I've added different gauges of wiring including 0.015", 0.020" and 0.030" lead wire. I also used some electric guitar string. Each length of wire was fitted individually, glued into place and then painted before adding the next wire. At this point, I'm ready to start cobbling together the sub-components of the rear engine plug together.
Like the cockpit, the view into this area through the wheel wells will be limited. This photo is probably representative of the likely angle. As you can see, there are some leftover holes in the forward bulkhead that I can utilize to add some last few pieces of wiring. I'll do this after I see how this piece fits into the fuselage.
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Great work so far John!
Robert Porter
Senior Master Sergeant
Ha! Your idea of not much done is my version of a months work! It is looking awesome! I have been loving this build from the start!
Crimea_River
Marshal
Looks pretty nice John. Wojtek the hollow part of that tank faces to closed cowl so won't 'be seen.
