- Thread starter
- #381
Builder 2010
Staff Sergeant
Happy Monday. Back in the shop! The new Vinyl Cutter produced some more good stuff; the propeller shaft graphics.
Before I could cut anything I had to remove the black vinyl from last week's number-cutting. That wasn't easy. It should be, but because I had the cut set too deep, all the numbers and their bounding boxes along with the backing sheet were cut all the way through to the carrier sheet. The carrier sheet is adhesive coated, necessary to hold the stock as its being reeled back and forth as the cutter works. Normally, you just peel the entire sheet off the carrier apply another piece of vinyl. But with everything cut clean through, I was left with all the separate strips and individual characters and any holes (like the centers of the number 8 or the triangle in the center of the number 4). This took over a half hour with tweezers and hobby knife to peel them off without damaging the carrier.
Stars & Stripes Decor on Prop Shafts:
Besides the US patriotic theme, the stripes help the crew determine how many turns the props are making and makes it clear that there's a 32" dia., solid steel shaft spinning in their space. I drew all the designs on a single page in the Sihoulette design software, but you can selectively choose what you're actually going to cut. This was very useful with some parts being cut from white and red vinyl. I thought I had bought blue, but didn't, so the blue areas are masked and airbrushed.
The stars were a challenge to lift off the backing. I understand why people buy the special transfer tape for vinyl cutting. The Tamiya Tape worked well, but it's not transparent enough to really see how the cutting will be applied to the workpiece. I'm going to get the real stuff. You have to be careful when pulling the details off the big sheet. If they don't come off the first time, you run the risk of the array getting out of register. Some of the stars did get loose and took some fiddling to get them applied.
The result were pretty good. Ryan was happy to see that I've added some "Crew applied" graphics to the model.
i also got the replacement turbogen foundation post-cured and all cleaned up. The re-drawn version now has the perfectly sized hole for the 4mm columns. The previous one had holes for a scale of 7" diameter column, and needed to be drilled larger for the 4mm brass columns. Now I have perfect and plumb fits for all the columns. Sometimes it takes more than one try to get things right. Just ask Elon Musk about luanching his Starship.
I then started doing the new circuits for the LEDs. In this instance I've added a 3rd light to give more illuminaton on the lube pumps and lube oil cooler in the lower deck area.
When the attachment leads are soldered on, I will assemble the columns, then prime and base gray. This week should produce some good things. My friend Bryant, called today to get one final dimension check to use when cutting the ogee trim pieces that surround the base plate. When I get the finished base I'll bring it to the plastics house and have them measure it for the clear acrylic purchase. I get the acrylic CNC cut leaving a pretty smooth surface requiring very little sanding before cementing.
Before I could cut anything I had to remove the black vinyl from last week's number-cutting. That wasn't easy. It should be, but because I had the cut set too deep, all the numbers and their bounding boxes along with the backing sheet were cut all the way through to the carrier sheet. The carrier sheet is adhesive coated, necessary to hold the stock as its being reeled back and forth as the cutter works. Normally, you just peel the entire sheet off the carrier apply another piece of vinyl. But with everything cut clean through, I was left with all the separate strips and individual characters and any holes (like the centers of the number 8 or the triangle in the center of the number 4). This took over a half hour with tweezers and hobby knife to peel them off without damaging the carrier.
Stars & Stripes Decor on Prop Shafts:
Besides the US patriotic theme, the stripes help the crew determine how many turns the props are making and makes it clear that there's a 32" dia., solid steel shaft spinning in their space. I drew all the designs on a single page in the Sihoulette design software, but you can selectively choose what you're actually going to cut. This was very useful with some parts being cut from white and red vinyl. I thought I had bought blue, but didn't, so the blue areas are masked and airbrushed.
The stars were a challenge to lift off the backing. I understand why people buy the special transfer tape for vinyl cutting. The Tamiya Tape worked well, but it's not transparent enough to really see how the cutting will be applied to the workpiece. I'm going to get the real stuff. You have to be careful when pulling the details off the big sheet. If they don't come off the first time, you run the risk of the array getting out of register. Some of the stars did get loose and took some fiddling to get them applied.
The result were pretty good. Ryan was happy to see that I've added some "Crew applied" graphics to the model.
i also got the replacement turbogen foundation post-cured and all cleaned up. The re-drawn version now has the perfectly sized hole for the 4mm columns. The previous one had holes for a scale of 7" diameter column, and needed to be drilled larger for the 4mm brass columns. Now I have perfect and plumb fits for all the columns. Sometimes it takes more than one try to get things right. Just ask Elon Musk about luanching his Starship.
I then started doing the new circuits for the LEDs. In this instance I've added a 3rd light to give more illuminaton on the lube pumps and lube oil cooler in the lower deck area.
When the attachment leads are soldered on, I will assemble the columns, then prime and base gray. This week should produce some good things. My friend Bryant, called today to get one final dimension check to use when cutting the ogee trim pieces that surround the base plate. When I get the finished base I'll bring it to the plastics house and have them measure it for the clear acrylic purchase. I get the acrylic CNC cut leaving a pretty smooth surface requiring very little sanding before cementing.