1:48 P-51D by Tamiya 44-13410 LOU IV

Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules

Wait a sec. You need to know that there will be a big hole where the fillet was if you cut it off. Not impossible to fix but a little more work than "just cutting it off".

EDIT: Dang it, I keep doing that. Adding to the discussion when there's a whole new page of posts after the one I thought was the last one. Ignore the above if you're going the resin route.
 
Good stuff so far.
Removing and re-shaping the fin fillet is fairly straightforward, if you need to do it on a future model Robert. Just mark the line of the leading edge of the fin onto the fillet, and cut with a razor saw, then cut along the base of the fillet. This leaves a small gap, which can be plugged internally with plastic card, and then the recess filled with 'Milliput', moulded and sanded to shape.
Interesting info from Dana on the wheel well colours. Somewhere, I have a copy of the official painting and finishing notes, where the wells are shown as clear lacquered aluminium, with the rear wall (the main spar) in ZC.
I've certainly seen some pics of currently preserved Mustangs with overall ZC, but it's not known if this was a later addition.
 
In what books I have, period photos appear to show both ZC and Aluminum finishes. And from that thread what I took away was "it depends". Most modern restorations and racers appear to be the aluminum finish.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Similar threads

Tamiya 1/48 P-47D-22, s.n. 42-26044, HV-Z ‘’Silver Lady’
2
Replies
31
Views
1K
dcasey33
1/48 Classic Airframes Boeing P-12E
2
Replies
36
Views
1K
T Bolt
Dazzled 1/48 NA-91 / P-51A? kit
5 6 7
Replies
132
Views
7K
Gnomey
1/48 Tamiya Brewster F2A-2 Buffalo
3 4 5
Replies
96
Views
7K
Lucky13
Airfix 1/48 P-51-D "Stinky"
2 3 4
Replies
60
Views
4K
Grant Barr
Menu
Log in
Register