fubar57
General
Looks very nice Stu
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Silver finishes are brutal for showing the tiniest of flaws.
I just bought the same Gloster kit. Wasn't cheap, CAD $90 including shipping. My plan is to make it the FAA fighter it should have been. So, I'll be buying the decals for the Fairey Fulmar, adding a hook and cutting the wings to install a fold. This will be the trickiest part, since I can't have the folded height exceed the 16ft height or the 22 ft width of the Ark Royal or Illustrious class. So it's either fold up or back. Lastly I'll see if I can rotate the undercarriage like on the Curtiss P-36 and P-40 so it can be flat underneath.I have been after this kit for a while but it's been out of production. I noticed Special Hobby in Czechia had stock and banged in an order. Postage wasn't very expensive and it arrived in respectable time.
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I have had nightmares with the last two resin kits but this looks very well cast and I can't see any flaws. The fuselage halves were slightly twisted but dunking them in warm water then holding them flat for a minute solved that.
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The instructions for a resin kit are dazzlingly comprehensiveView attachment 619237View attachment 619238
There's a pair of vacform canopies which is always nice not that I have ever needed a spare
I just bought the same Gloster kit. Wasn't cheap, CAD $90 including shipping. My plan is to make it the FAA fighter it should have been. So, I'll be buying the decals for the Fairey Fulmar, adding a hook and cutting the wings to install a fold. This will be the trickiest part, since I can't have the folded height exceed the 16ft height or the 22 ft width of the Ark Royal or Illustrious class. So it's either fold up or back. Lastly I'll see if I can rotate the undercarriage so it can be flat underneath.
Good idea I thought of doing something similar when I started. I don't know if you have built a resin kit before but make sure you have a good quality razor saw to cut the resin. You can sometimes cut it with a scalpel or craft knife but the resin can be brittle. Put some masking tape over the cut line then cut through the tape to reduce any splintering. Also use the razor saw to cut through the sprue attachment blocks, if you try using nippers like you can on styrene kits you can end up with smaller parts shattering.LPI just bought the same Gloster kit. Wasn't cheap, CAD $90 including shipping. My plan is to make it the FAA fighter it should have been. So, I'll be buying the decals for the Fairey Fulmar, adding a hook and cutting the wings to install a fold. This will be the trickiest part, since I can't have the folded height exceed the 16ft height or the 22 ft width of the Ark Royal or Illustrious class. So it's either fold up or back. Lastly I'll see if I can rotate the undercarriage like on the Curtiss P-36 and P-40 so it can be flat underneath.
Thanks for the advice.. This will be my first time working with resin.Good idea I thought of doing something similar when I started. I don't know if you have built a resin kit before but make sure you have a good quality razor saw to cut the resin. You can sometimes cut it with a scalpel or craft knife but the resin can be brittle. Put some masking tape over the cut line then cut through the tape to reduce any splintering.
The kit arrived today from Japan. I'll likely use my Dremel to saw off the wings just outside of the undercarriage before the leading edge landing light. I plan to install a hinge so I can show it both folded and spread. I'll be leaving the undercarriage design as is, I'll make a hash of if otherwise.That sounds like a worthy what-if, Admiral, looking forward to seeing your resulting fleet fighter.
he kit arrived today from Japan. I'll likely use my Dremel to saw off the wings just outside of the undercarriage before the leading edge landing light. I plan to install a hinge so I can show it both folded and spread. I'll be leaving the undercarriage design as is, I'll make a hash of if otherwise.
I like Gloster Gannet, Harrier, Goshawk and Osprey.
Hmm…. Gloster Gonad it is then. Destined to fly escort over Rabaul for the Baltimore Whore, aka B-26... but being your what-if it can be whatever you like.
Make sure your wearing a mask and doing it outdoors the Dremel will create a lot of dust that you don't want in your lungs. Or in the house.I'll likely use my Dremel to saw off the wings
The above Curtiss design seems like an easy modification of the below Gloster layout.
Without a 3D printer I don't think I can provide P-36 like wheel rotation, so it's going to be a Mk I Gloster with folding wings. Future Mks will have smooth underwing surfaces and a Taurus.The advantage to the Gloster gear layout is that the wheels protrude below the wing to give some protection to the underside on a belly landing. Also, the Curtiss method might reduce drag but it introduces complexity. It could sometimes do this.
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Up to you, though, if you think the drag penalty might be too great.
Without a 3D printer I don't think I can provide P-36 like wheel rotation, so it's going to be a Mk I Gloster with folding wings. Future Mks will have smooth underwing surfaces and a Taurus.