Air Brushes, Putty, compressors and other model tools

Just wondering what you all use in your hobby! I thought it might give some tips to others (me Inc) I see Wurger is very knowledgeable and I'm sure I missed someone.

Guess I should start Aztek Ac 500 compressor/tank with water trap.
Aztek A4309 Airbrush, Iwata HP-C Air Brush, Dremel motor tool, 3x diopter with light, 6x 100 watt work bench lighting, 4x8 work area.
Paints
Model Master, Mr Metal, Gunze Hobby Color, Aero master, Mr Thinner, testors airbrush thinner.
Other
Color water paints, Oil Paints.
Glues
Mr Cement Delux, Tenax 7R, Zapa Gap Cyano, Cyano kicker, Tamiya putty.
Other
Brasso rubbimng compound,Wet sand 600 t0 1600, Files,clamps,knives,blades.
Para film( Masking) Mr Mask (masking)
Tons of odds and ends.

I'll post a photo of my bench and models on shelving waiting to be built.

Hi,
It is really a very good stuff.I think you shouldn't have any problems with making and painting models using this one.However I have to add something to this.The wet sandpaper 600 to 1600 can be enough but I would suggest to extend its upper limit to 2000 or even 2200.It lets you make much more smooth surface.It would be nice if you could buy additional part for Dremel motor tool which is used for polishing.Of cours if it is not included to the Dremel set.There is also a very useful tool for us the razor-blade saw.This tool can be used for both cutting and making negativ panel lines.

I build strictly "OOB", so I don't have a lot of extra modeling tools; a couple of X-Acto knives, tweezers, clothspins, several brushes to choose from, and a bottle of Super Glue. That's about it. Every once in a while, I'll use Future. I've got an old tube of Squadron "green putty", but I've only used it a couple of times, and it's probably dried-up by now. And I pretty much only use Testors Model Master colors (mostly because they're FS-listed), though I have a few non-standard bottles, too (Yellow Zinc Chromate is one of them). For big pieces, I try to use "rattle-cans" whenever possible, though I actually enjoy brush painting more. My models certainly aren't museum quality, but I enjoy myself, and that's what counts.

Don't even get me started on how many WIP's I have (unless you really want to!). Lately, I've gotten into "stripping" old WIP's I'm not happy with, for one reason or another, and starting over (an M-109A2 and an F-104G are two of them). I've found that brake fluid is the best paint stripper, though old paint doesn't come off very easily (new paint comes off right away). I've kit-bashed a couple of times, but they didn't turn out so well.

Where do you buy a razor blade saw?

Most model shops will have razor saws; Model Hobbies can supply them via on-line ordering. However, most of these are a very fine toothed blade saw, which still do the job, but perhaps aren't as fine as Wurger's example. Be prepared to be shocked at the price though - they are normally around £4 to £5 !!
As for other modelling equipment, I don't know where to start! It'll be easier to post a pic of all my bits and pieces, collected over about forty years!
I'll do so when I get a chance!

Cheers

I agree with Airframes.These razor-saws are offered by most of Hobby shops.I can suggest the nice Trumpeter set.In the one there are three kinds of razors and a handle for them.

Anyone ever use the Paasche Air Eraser?

PAASCHE AIR ERASER KIT Etching Glass-Airbrush-Paint-Art | TCP Global

I've used it for spotting and large area heavy weathering. Requires a couple good coats of metallic base completely dried. Over that the camo is applied with airbrush but just lightly enough to opaque the metallic base. I've filled the abrasive hopper with various fine particulate mediums and have had great success with baking soda. It's messy and requires a bit of practice but in the end it's really like airbrushing paint on. The illusion to keep in mind is thinking that the metallic undercoat is not being revealed but rather being put on, albeit much more patiently and painstakingly. Learning the pressure to use, keeping the topcoat (camo, etc.) to a thin layer and contact area dwell-timing are the key issues.

Note: it can be used to modulate the look of brightwork by adding a lusterless look where needed; especially in obtaining the typical fading out from bright to dull characteristic of weathered metals. That requires a couple good airbrushed coats of whatever metal is needed. They must be completely dry - 2 weeks - to ensure that the vehicle is completely flashed off. Otherwise, while in the rubber stage of cure ("flowing") it can gum up the paint if area dwell-time is excessive. Of course, anyone handy with a regular airbrush can obtain the same look with differently tinted paints.