Airbrushing Tips and Guides

[Vic Balshaw]

Sorry to hear that and there could be a number of reasons. So, a couple of questions:
Did you wash (a light scrub with a toothbrush) the model parts in a drop of dish washing liquid in warm water and then let them dry before you started building the model.
Did you also spray a primer coat on first and let it toughly dry.
What paint were you using and had you let it dry overnight.
There could be many more reasons, but lets get a foundation to start working through them.

 

[DerAdlerIstGelandet]

1. Yes I did a wash first.
2. No primer coat.
3. Revell Enamel Paint
4. I did the white paint yesterday and let dry overnight. Today I masked off the line where the black paint meets the white paint using Tamiya masking tape and then airbrushed the black paint.

 

[Vic Balshaw]

Can't think what could have caused the black bubbling and the white to flake. It sounds like some kind of chemical reaction, is it in just little patches or all the way along the Tamiya masking.

 

[DerAdlerIstGelandet]

I probably should be explaining this better…

I did not apply mask before doing the white paint yesterday because I really was not concerned about overspray because I figured black paint would cover the white paint with no problem. So I applied the mask today over the white paint along the hull line where the black would meet the white. The part that is flaking is the over-spayed area below the tape line.

See pics below.

I think my only option is to get some paint remover and paint it again.

 

[Vic Balshaw]

You are right, if you can remove the puckered paint gently with some very mild thinners and some ear buds. Be careful with the thinners as it could damage the bare plastic. Once removed, give the area a good wash to get rid of any traces of the thinners. When re spraying, do light passes and let each one set and dry before applying the next. Another way to remove the paint in that small area is with sanding sticks if you have them, they will clean back the paint without leaving any chemical residue. Finish the sanding of with smoothing grades and a little wash or wipe with a damp cloth. Let us know how you get on and I hope it all comes good for you.

 

[DerAdlerIstGelandet]

I have sanding sticks. I will try that first.

 

[DerAdlerIstGelandet]

I just don't understand why it did that.

 

[N4521U]

Enamel is very difficult to spray.
A primer should be oso light, never as heavy as the finish color. Prime All surfaces to be painted. Then move to colors.
With enamels it is best to mask everything Not to be painted a color. Enamel build up will start to hide detail.
Thinning is crucial to get it to flow always do a test.
Application should be light coats, and more than ONE and at least two to cover. Light coats, stop when it's nice and opaque. This ensures not to Hide detail.
First coat should Not cover Opaque, it is referred to as a "Tack coat" and is just to get something for the finish coat to Stick to.
Wait and wait and wait before masking a color. Enamels are famous for lonnnnng drying times.
NEVER use anything Lacquer over enamel......... don't even Whisper lacquer around enamel. Don't use lacquer thinners over enamel.
Lacquer melts enamels. But not Acrylic H2O paint????? Go figure.
Go easy with enamels. Just sayin.

 

[Ralph Haus]

Having zero experience with spraying enamel I can only speculate. Both black and white were Revell brand? Thinking if not maybe incompatible solvents? Or if you had 'oily' fingers, like eating fried chicken when applying the mask, then that could cause a non-sticking issue. Not sure why enamel is a choice (by many here) since it is a pain to clean up and needs serious venting? If it's for the glossy finish, there are some acrylics that will do that, maybe not as well, but much easier to apply. Besides, that's what finish coats are for.

 

[DerAdlerIstGelandet]

They were both revell enamel paints.

I chose them because that is what the instructions called out for and were readily available at my hobby store.

Yes, I wear a respirator when I sprayed.

 

[Ralph Haus]

They were both revell enamel paints.

I chose them because that is what the instructions called out for and were readily available at my hobby store.

Yes, I wear a respirator when I sprayed.

But your tape pressing finger(s)? Were they fairly oil free, as in natural oils? Grasping at straws here trying to understand the bubbling! Leaning towards a difference in the two paints?

 

[DerAdlerIstGelandet]

Not sure how oily my fingers were.

 

[DerAdlerIstGelandet]

The paints though were the same brand.

 

[Ralph Haus]

The paints though were the same brand.

I did some lookups and not letting the first dry enough and moisture consistantly came up as culperts. That and contamination if surface. But Revell does have enamel and acrylic in all finishes. Humor me, check to see if both cans say enamel?

 

[DerAdlerIstGelandet]

I did some lookups and not letting the first dry enough and moisture consistantly came up as culperts. That and contamination if surface. But Revell does have enamel and acrylic in all finishes. Humor me, check to see if both cans say enamel?

I will when I take my lunch.

Drying time was 24 hours.

 

[DerAdlerIstGelandet]

Confirmed. Both paints are enamal.

 

[Wurger]

Of the same manufacturer?

 

[Ralph Haus]

Of the same manufacturer?

He said as much earlier. So the mystery remains.

 

[Wurger]

Oh the Revell right?

 

[DerAdlerIstGelandet]

Of the same manufacturer?

Yes